Jump to content

Runtoeat

Members
  • Content count

    2,252
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

About Runtoeat

  • Rank
    Master Star Fighter

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    reh3335@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Belleville, Michigan
  • Interests
    Target shooting, running, flying and tinkering (i.e., trying to screw up things that are working OK)
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

12,421 profile views
  1. Alternator light

    Pay particular attention to the little "wing" that comes off of the female fitting. This is what "locks" the fitting to the plastic block that holds the connections to the regulator. If the connector is dislodged from the plastic block, very gently and slightly lift this up with a small screw driver just enough to catch the plastic block and lock in when the connector is pushed back into the block. Going too far or flexing this too much will break it off and a new female connector must then be installed. Also, check that the female connector's "curls" snugly slide over the regulator blade connection. Too tight and you will need a screwdriver to push these on as Roger describes. Too loose and you might find another burned connector. Better to be a little tight and a screwdriver is needed but this can stress the little "wing". Reading my note kind of sounds like the story of Goldilocks and the 3 bears
  2. I have looked into the most recent position/strobe lights from AVEO. They now sell an updated ESeries LSA position light. I would like to upgrade my CTSW factory position lights with lights that include a strong strobe and think these AVEO lights would be a good choice. As with the other AVEO lights discussed here, these too appear to have a really low amperage draw and the factory wiring should be capable of supply the needed current. Any comments on this would be appreciated. http://www.21stcentury-usa.com/aveo/aveoflash/positionlights/
  3. High Oil Temps

    Are the oil and water hoses with tight radius retro fitted with internal springs and has the oil return from the sump to oil reservoir been re-routed for better flow? Roger has posted this in the forum.
  4. CTSW Weight & Balance

    This is an interactive spreadsheet which I made up and posted a few years ago. You can insert data in yellow boxes with results shown at bottom. It works well for me but read the directions and use at your own risk. Some of the cells are locked. If you want to change weight of your aircraft, for instance, go to "Review" tab and unlock the worksheet. Most sheets I've seen don't account for the large cargo weight (50lb. per side) which the CTSW is capable of carrying. I've put this into the spreadsheet. As I recall playing with this sheet, I believe the only condition where the CTSW is out of limit for C.G. is when cargo is loaded and fuel is allowed to go below 9 gallons. Doug, you can modify this spreadsheet for the CTLS if you know your way around MS Excel. N9922Z W&B worksheet_170625.xlsx
  5. IFly 740b installed

    Ben2k9, your install looks good. My SkyGuard and iFly 740 continue to work well and have now been certified with the FAA for 2020. Don't really use the AHRS much but good to know it's there if needed. Which autopilot do you have - Dynon or TruTrak?
  6. Rumbling idle this morning?

    +2 on "worth every penny" joining the Rotax Owner's website.
  7. I suspect that adjusting sensitivity and torque settings will solve your problem. If not, you might have a "sticky" aileron bearing. I recently found my TruTrak A/P wandering all of a sudden. I happened to look at my aileron bearings and found one bearing was tight and not allowing the aileron to freely move. Once the bearing was freed up, the A/P wandering stopped.
  8. MidWest Sky Sports is a first class operation with immaculate facility that offers technical repairs including custom instrument panels for all aircraft. Pretty sure MidWest is approved for Flight Design and Cirrus composite repair and sure they're a Rotax heavy repair. Highly recommend you visit them for the Fly-in.
  9. Max rpm or?

    Andy, I also use 5300 for cruise and it's interesting because this is just where I like to cruise and isn't arrived at by looking at fuel burn etc. As you indicate, 5300 just seems to be a sweet spot for my Rotax and gets me to where I'm going at what I feel is a reasonable speed.
  10. Yeah, I've polished out small scratches - think I used McGuires plastic scratch removal product and also some very fine rouge-like compound. I think Roger is probably right. The windshield is definitely something that one doesn't want to mess with if not absolutely necessary. My problem is I'm always trying to fix things that aren't broken.
  11. Corey, I've got some waviness on my windshield. I've considered trying to even the surface by using a sanding block with super fine sandpaper or Micro Mesh fluids. My friend says Micro Mesh products work on plexi-glass but will not work on the windshield because the lexan is soft and won't allow sanding. Comments?
  12. EGT question for the experts?

    Thanks Tom.
  13. EGT question for the experts?

    Clear this up for me. Lean running produces higher or lower EGT? Same for fouled plug. Would cylinder with fouled plug run higher or lower EGT temp
  14. draining fuel tanks

    If you start with a lot of fuel but don't have the time to monitor filling buckets from the gascolator, use a siphon hose and drain the tanks. I drain directly into my car if there's lots of fuel. Then do a final drain of the last couple gallons by draining the gascolator into a bucket.
  15. Cable Maintenance

    Corey, I normally use shrink wrap for the cable ends but the heating and twisting of the throttle cable looks good to me. As you indicate, the heat is applied far away from the clamping of the cable. For cables that don't have long lengths away from the clamping, how about using a heat sink applied to the cable and then heating and twisting. Or, using lower heat and applying silver solder to the un-frayed portion of the cable end, then trimming the small frayed portion?
×