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Roger Lee

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About Roger Lee

  • Rank
    Master Star Fighter
  • Birthday 10/15/1953

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  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Flying, Camping, Shooting, SCUBA, ATV riding
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  1. Most don't need to reduce the pin width because they have already worn the slot wider. If you do need to reduce the width you can use a file or sander. Just pay attention and keep the side you're working on flat. This is hard metal.
  2. Actually the floorboard is a far better location than behind the seat. It's fast access whether you're out fueling or in flight. As a 30 year retired firefighter I have a little experience with extinguishers. Three things make the use of an extinguisher work. First the speed at which you can obtain the Ext. and then apply it before flames and heat become an overwhelming problem. In the floorboard it is easily accessible quickly to apply to an inflight cabin fire to keep flames off oy you until you can get on the ground or if you are fueling. The floorboard has no delays in its application. Trying to get behind the other seat in a hurry and panic situation is difficult, you're strapped in, wrong angle and little room to work and made even worse with a passenger onboard pressing the seat even further back. Second is the person's knowledge on how to apply and extinguisher. It should be directed at the base of the flames and as close as you can get. Next since few have any actual extinguisher training you need volume of the extinguishing medium. The majority of people waste the medium. When I replace an existing one I replace it with one with double the extinguishing media. Extinguishers have no real cooling power so fire can often re-ignite right back up. You hit it once and put it out with the least amount of medium as possible to save for the next flair up. Keeping the flames knocked down will help the cooling affect and stop re-ignition. Number one cause for failed extinguisher use is too small an extinguisher and then improper use. I put all my clients extinguishers in the pilot floorboard. It can save your plane and maybe your life. p.s. A big majority have expired extinguishers. They are usually stamped with an expiration date.
  3. These are very simple switches. Call FD.
  4. You may just need to do a re-program for the positions and circuit board. I'm a tad surprised your voltage isn't in the 13's.
  5. What was the voltage and try and run 2-3 cycles and see if it's just a first start running a bit cold issue.
  6. If the gap were to get too wide for any pin then it can be welded on each side in the slot then file it back down to the correct width. I've done it 3 times with good success.
  7. It can do that if you are at low rpms with low voltage with all your electronics on. Rev the engine up to 3000 rpm and see if it still does it.
  8. The pin is very hard molychrome steel. You'd need a mill and not a lathe.
  9. I have used 25mm for years on both. 20mm get crushed to easily.
  10. No washers. Just a beveled metal to metal fit.
  11. The stock pins are 11mm tall and 8mm wide. I make mine 11mm tall and 8.2mm wide. If the front slot is worn like the majority get then using a stock pin allows side to side wobble which you don't want. The slightly fatter pin allows you to hand fit the pin to make the front suspension solid. You could sand or file it down to be a perfect fit. Many front ends I do just take the 8.2mm because of normal wear. If you have wobble it will get worse and get get to the point of front suspension replacement. This should be a pre-flight check and is very easy to do. Takes all of 10 seconds. The old red polyurethane dampers were 20mm tall and 20mm wide. Mine and I believe FD's are now 20mm tall and 25mm wide. They just last longer and do a better job.
  12. The CTSW started with springs in the front suspension, but they moved up and down too far and wore out the slot with the pin and would bang and bottom out up and down. So FD replaced the spring with 6 red polyurethane dampeners. Now the front end should be fairly solid with no up and down free play when you pick up the front end an 1"-2" and and let it down firmly. There should also not be any side to side motion. A quarter inch side to side is fine, but much more than that and the front suspension pin should be replaced. If you need either dampeners or pin I have them. Just let me know. I also have door lift struts and the CTSW (16) rubber engine mounts.
  13. Hi MEH. The FAA ask the insurance companies on their TBO stance. The insurance companies said they would go with whatever the FAA said. Plus all mechanics should be using a checklist and you should keep it all signed off and annotated in the margins on everything they did. This is what protects you and the mechanic and shows due diligence.
  14. Read attached TBO....willette-dodgecenteraviation - (2013) legal interpretation.pdf FAA and the TBO.pdf
  15. Roger Lee

    Piston Head

    All our piston heads on heads have some build up. The amount and type is influenced by whether you use just auto fuel or 100LL. 100LL has more build up. Then it would depend on how much idling you do. Whether you are running a little leaner or rich mixture. Engines with dual filters under the cowl mounted right on the carbs will eventually end up with more build up vs an engine that gets cooler outside air that run richer and will have more build up. Unless you somehow get a huge amount of build up which would be rae then I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
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