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Roger Lee

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About Roger Lee

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  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Flying, Camping, Shooting, SCUBA, ATV riding
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  1. No he's not correct and this has been researched by several people including myself at nauseum. Rotax can not make the rules and regs for the US. Period. That is done by the FAA. I wish Lockwood would do better research and call the FAA for better guidance. These are all recommendations from FD and Rotax and SHOULD be done, but are not legally binding. The key words here is legally binding. The FAA also called the insurance companies back when this was even more a hot topic and the insurance companies said they would follow what the FAA says. Depending on who does your rubber replacement and their hourly shop rate and with the things you have mentioned above it will cost anywhere from $7500 - $9K. The chute and rocket right now is 3 weeks and $3250 just for the BRS folks. I just did the exact same type maint. on a 2008 CTLS. He had it all done. I'm still waiting for the chute. Lockwood is also wrong about the TBO. They will refuse to work on your plane if it has timed out unless you want to give them $14K+ to overhaul your engine which the FAR's and the FAA says you can go on condition. To me some of their demands are just all about money. A lot of people have gotten away from Lockwood. I read about it or have people call me all the time about them. Years ago: Legally the FAA had issues with Rotax SB's being mandatory since we deal with SD's for mandatory work in the US. It was supposed to have been ruled on by the FAA legal over a 1-2 years ago which never happened. At first the FAA said they weren't binding, but I was told by the two top LSA folks that they got it wrong and may be changing their stance, but nothing has come out. p.s. The rubber engine mounts should be done at hose change.
  2. Sorry, you are correct I only ship in the US.
  3. I have them if you need them. I buy 100 at a time.
  4. And only one company makes it for Rotax. Conti-Continental. There is NO US equivalent for 17MM. It's either too small or too large an I.D.
  5. The standard OLD TRADITIONAL serrated worm drive clamp used by the old guys (LOL Just teasing ) does cut into hoses more easily and after some of the things I've seen from these guys tightening these style clamps they can strip. That said if applied properly they shouldn't strip. The Wurth Zebra clamps have no openings so they can't cut into the hose. " Some of the clamps are even designed to provide even pressure 360 degrees." I would bet that darn few ever look for the better clamps. To many people a clamp is a clamp. I still thinks it's better to be on a more progressive side from old school. It's just me. Use whatever clamps you want.
  6. These were right. The 25-40mm is for 1" coolant hose and the 20-32 is for 17mm coolant when needed.
  7. If you haven't you still should clean the shunt wires.
  8. Plus it most likely isn't retrofitable on any plane. It would have to be a from scratch home built.
  9. Use dielectric grease. Vaseline is also flammable. It will burn. Put a match up to a char of it. You don't need grease all over it. Just at the contact points.
  10. If you have the Dynon instruments then remove the left panel. In the back is the shunt. Remove the two small screws on each end and clean those wire eyelets with a scotch pad and where they screw down to. The fasten those two wires back down. Also you have 5 ground wires. 4 in the engine compartment and one behind the right panel that should have a wrench put on them. They may be hand tight, but wrench lose.
  11. If you see 5800 or more in level flight then you have a climb prop, but lose cruise speed, fuel economy and possible engine temp increase. In level flight at your average altitude 5600-5650 is a sweet spot. It's a good balance between climb, cruise, fuel and engine temps. Since we don't get to have an in flight adjustable prop we need to pick a happy medium. If you had to always take off on a short field and over trees you may need a better climb setting. Same with someone who had a float plane or was always up or over the max weight.
  12. I don't know Bill. I'm in the middle of a hose change right now. I'll take a look. I think it is 20mm - 32mm or 25-40? I'll look.
  13. The spring clamps usually don't have problems when positioned properly, but sometimes during a rubber hose change they can get a little weakened if someone is hard on them during removal. If that happens then you could just buy a new spring clamp or use a Wurth Zebra wormdrive clamp. Do not use the old traditional style that have the slots cut in it like a standard garden hose clamp. The Zebra clamp has raised ribs on it. It won't cut into the hose, it seals better and far less likely to over cam and loosen. The Wurth clamp is what FD uses and you already have some of these on your engine hoses.
  14. The aluminum elbow has a flared end. You can feel it under the hose. Make sure the spring clamp is up right by that. Not on top of it. By placing the clamp up next to it it will seal the hose much better and if you have a leak it should go away. Most mechanics just put the spring clamp anywhere on the hose. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Moving the clamp up by the flare under the hose will seal it far better.
  15. Poorer performance and the carbon fiber doesn't do well in all the water. ( i.e. the underfin and stab). The one I remember had major delamination of the carbon fiber on the under fin. Props tend to erode on the leading edge. CT's just weren't really designed with float flying in mind.
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