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Roger Lee

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About Roger Lee

  • Rank
    Master Star Fighter
  • Birthday 10/15/1953

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  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Flying, Camping, Shooting, SCUBA, ATV riding
  • Gender

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  1. CPS has been out for quite a while. It was announced during either Sun'n Fun or Oshkosh. The only Rotax parts that CPS might have is what was left in stock. The new one is Motive Aero out of St. George, UT. https://motive.aero/
  2. I've been using the thin aluminum tape since 2001. It works fine. Most of the LSA that I have as clients all use it.
  3. Hi All, Food for thought and a quick tip to make maint. and flying better. During the annual you are supposed to remove the float bowls and look for debris and weigh the floats. It's on the maint. checklist. Since you are into this this far you might as well take 5 minutes and remove and clean the idle jet. I just push the carb back out of its rubber socket so I can tilt the bottom towards me and raise it up a couple of inches to clear the heat shield / drip tray. So while the bowl is off you can take a flat tip screwdriver and unscrew the idle jet located right next to the brass protruding main jet. I find most at least half clogged and some fully clogged. If you hold the jet up to the sunlight you should see a small clean hole through the center of the jet. Most times you can barely see it or not at all. This causes harder starts. Take a 8" piece of #14-18 gauge wire and strip back about 5" of the insulation. Unwind just one strand . This is how tiny the hole through the center of the idle jet is. DO NOT use a drill bit or anything else along this line. This will damage the jet hole, but the wire will not. I've been doing it like this for almost 20 years and never had an issue. Put the single strand of wire through the center of the idle jet and slide it back and forth and twist it in circles. This will break up any debris and dried fuel. Then follow up with some spray carb cleaner like "Brake Clean" with the 6" long red nozzle. It's small and fits inside the jet for a good flushing down through both ends of the jet. Now follow that with some high pressure air. Now that this is done look through the idle jet again against the light and you should see a small, but nice clean passage through the center of the idle jet. Now just screw it back in place and replace the bowl and floats. Owners that don't seem have have easy starts can do this anytime. If someone has a really high unequal vacuum on their gauges on one carb at idle during a carb sync you can have the same issue with the idle jet and may need cleaning. This is easy and quick to do while the bowl is off so you might as well do the next best thing and be that cut above average.
  4. Hi John, Happy New Year to you and your wife too. Come on down anytime. In my new home I have tons or room and full hookups for your RV. The red dampeners at times have to be pushed down just a tad to get the nut started. This is different on all CT's. Some nuts start easy and some you have to push down hard. That's mainly because the full length bolt down the center isn't adjusted the same in all CT's. So what I do is place the suspension on the ground with the opening for the nut facing straight up. This way I can use my weight to slightly compress the dampeners to get the nut started. Once started screwing it down is easy. One other way if it's too tight is to take the top red dampener and sand a little off of it to make it shorter and easier to start the nut.
  5. The old red polyurethane dampeners used to be 20mm tall x 20mm wide. The new ones are 25mm (1") wide. These hold up and last much longer and less likely to fall apart. Plus in the maintenance manual it tells you how to check these in a quick easy way and is supposed to be done every annual, but since it is so easy and quick should be done every few flights. Just grab the prop up by the spinner on two blades. Lift the front end by about 2". Then set it down firmly. If there is ANY free play up or down and it is not firm then these need to be replaced. While the front is off the ground I take my foot and try and wiggle the front wheel left to right. If there is more than about 1/4" then the front suspension pin should be replaced. Failure to do this will cause the wobble to become worse and wears the slot the pin resides in to become wider. The more wobble this has the worse it will get and can get bad enough to rep[ace the front suspension. That said it can be fixed if necessary if the slots are too wide. The old style spring which should have been removed many years ago was a major contributor of this slot wearing too wide because of all the travel it had. The red dampeners have very little movement.
  6. You may only need to adjust the brass float armature height. It is 10.5mm from the edge of the carb outside rim up to the top of the float armature when the carb is held upside down. I do lots of carb overhauls. Seems like Oct. & Nov. were carb overhaul months. I did a bunch of them. Todd's carbs were overhauls in 2017. My best guess is that the float armature needs adjusting. The second guess is the needle valve isn't functioning correctly. His plane was starting rough partly because the carbs were flooded due to leaving the fuel shutoff on 24/7. Since shutting that off when done flying starts on another day are better, but I still think the carbs may need adjustment to bring the fuel level in the bowl down some.
  7. The tension measurement and how to do it is on the rudder and in the maint. manual.
  8. The rudder which is affected by your wind forces on the wheel pant has a torque value in the maint. manual. This rudder torque also is the torque for the front wheel. If the springs are too lose then the wind can affect the front wheel / rudder more easily. I have seen a number of the rudder / front wheel spring tension lose. I agree with FD to just tighten the two turn buckles that tension the spring to a higher torque / side to side pressure. They are located just behind the bottom center panel. Since you aren't trying to bias the tension in any one direction then turn each one equally a few turns. Use the method in the manual to see what begining and ending pressure is to see if you did a decent job.
  9. If it's coming from the back bottom weep hole at the water pump housing there is no fix. There are three different materials back there. Ceramic, stainless steel and aluminum. They all expand and contract at different rates. So during cold months you may or may not see a tablespoon full or two of ant freeze on the ground and there is no fix and it isn't hurting anything. so long as it isn't a huge puddle then all is okay.
  10. If you put a Rivnut in the hole then you can use Loctite 480 (same Loctite that we use on the plastic aileron bearings (it's black in color) ) or just some good ole epoxy.
  11. Why not just fill it with epoxy and just drill and tap it.
  12. It's quite easy. The carb does need to be upside down. Then you need a metric ruler and most are in millimetres. With the carb pointing upside down place the ruler on the outside edge of the carb. Slide the measuring side over to the brass float armature. The height should be 10.5mm from the edge of the carb to the top of the armature. If it's 10 or 11mm it isn't a big shake. If you need to adjust the height then bend the tab the the needle valve is hanging from. Just takes a minute or two to do. Oct. and Nov. were definitely carb overhaul months.
  13. I had always heard around 75 pounds. When it's out and the spar is still in it's box my wife can lift it up and down.
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