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cdarza

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About cdarza

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    Co-Pilot Member

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  • Location
    Philippines
  • Interests
    Flying
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. It might just be a "grass is greener on the other side" thing. LOL Ive been flying the CT for 12 years and every now and then I think id be better off in a 172/182. But i remind myself i fly solo, just like you, 95% or more of the time. Then when you think about the savings flying a CT... CT always wins :)
  2. I totally agree. I prefer to fly without to avoid the minor shake i get from the fairings. But she doesnt look as pretty. LOL.
  3. Yup, you can see how badly my carb bowls are corroding. Will have to check my logs but I think Ive had these for 7-8 years. I did replace my first set after roughly 5 years as those too had corrosion issues. (2006 CTSW) Im using 100 Unleaded no ethanol (not 100LL Avgas). Never had visible water in the fuel. Note: Your 8 year carb bowls look great !!
  4. I noticed i wrote on this post back in 2018 re a CHT problem i was having. Analogue CHT Gauge indicating close to red line. This would only happen on occasion and was difficult to figure out. I would fly to a airport and gauge totally fine and on return i would have very hot CHT reading. Weird. Years later the problem became more frequent. Anyways, trying to keep story short, i have a defective CHT gauge. Luckily the problem would replicate on my last 4-5 flights. After engine start the cht would slowly climb to 220F (roughly) and then all of a sudden within a few seconds climb to 240 - 250F. I exchanged the cht and oil temp probes but the problem still repeated. I then switched the input connector of the cht and oil temp on the back of the gauges. The CHT temp gauge (which was now connected to oil temp probe) started at 220F and within a few seconds rose sharply to 250F. I would remove the connector then reattach and everytime i reattached, the gauge would indicate roughly 220F and then within 1 minute or so, rise quickly again to 250F. And i tried the Oil temp gauge connected to the cht probe and never got the high cht reading. Anyways, this is more a FYI incase anyone has problems with the analogue CHT gauges.
  5. Reminder - Clean those carb bowls. I was doing a runup and had the engine stumble. From 4000 rpm, lost roughly 100- 200 rpm and was 'grumbling' bad. This was whilst i was doing a 'mag check' so initially i thought it was a problem with my recently overhauled modules. When i was switching to "1" then "2" then to both i would sometimes getting a big drop and the engine roughness on "1" and then when i would switch to both and go back to "1" it was running fine again. I repeated this many many times and sometimes rough and sometimes not. Eventually i inspected the bowls to find all that dirt in there. Argh. After cleaning, start up and 15 mins of repeated "1" "2" "Both" mag check it didnt produce a big drop or engine roughness anymore. I hope this was the final cause of the rough engine. video-1593137735.mp4
  6. Thanks for the reply Gents. Will try again your suggestions. Yeah im thinking it might need a carb overhaul. Will likely do that soon (once i get the parts) to rule that out. Posting again just for comparison. First start is long and rough... the other is after a 2-3 minute warm up and is a nice quick start. Ugh, sounds like the gearbox is taking a beating. I have the overhauled Carmo modules which i understand have soft start feature but i could be mistaken. video-1593139694.mp4 video-1593138661.mp4
  7. Sorry - I should have included more info. Temp 90's F Humid. I did not use choke because when I use the choke, the rough engine start is worse. Before this engine rough started happening, I used to; choke on, crank, let out the choke and nudge the throttle up. That had good smooth engine starts.... But not lately.
  8. Not exactly hard starting but if you listen closely its not a 'smooth' start. Just wanted to get some opinions. Its as if its not in sync and then soon smoothens out. Once engine is warmed up and if i restart, its a smooth quick start. I recently had modules overhauled with Carmo. It seems a bit better now but since its not that smooth i just wanted to check incase im setting myself up for some damage with starts like this. Thanks ! video-1592982822.mp4
  9. Hi CDARZA.  I am having mag "drop out" problems same as you mentioned on the forum.  Cruising at 5,200 rpm and loosing about 50 rpms intermittently.  Did mag check while flying and first two checks engine ran fine on both #1 and #2 mags.  Third mag check engine quit wile on #1 (which is first switch "click" from "off") setting.  Sounds like your same problem?  Did you end up sending your mags to Carmo in the Netherlands to have them reconditioned?  You didn't indicate if you did this and if this solved your "non-working" mag problem.  Thanks

    Dick Harrison (runtoeat"

    1. cdarza

      cdarza

      Good day.  Yikes, yup that sounds very similar to my problem.    I did send both modules to Carmo and received them back within about a week.   So far all good however, i've only flown about 6 hours on the overhauled modules as in my country, we have been on lock down since April.  :(   I did notice though that the engine does start slightly better, although not as smooth as i would like.   First start is a bit of a violent start.    Once warm and restart its all good.    As i mentioned in my previous post,  the engine quit on the one mag but when i tried it again about a half hour later i couldnt replicate the engine shut down.     Thus,  i THINK it was the module but cant be 100% sure about that.    I asked Carmo for a report if they found any defect but they never responded....  They just said: "Today we have repaired /overhauled your Rotax 912ULS CDI units.  They function perfect again and are ready for shipment"

      Note I also sent both units even though only 1 'acted up'  Just for overhaul and peace of mind in case the other one had issues.  

       

       

       

       

    2. Runtoeat

      Runtoeat

      Thanks for you reply.  Good to know Carmo is a reputable company to deal with.  My module would act OK and then just shut down intermittently.  You did the right thing by having yours rebuilt. 

      Dick

    3. cdarza

      cdarza

      This only happened once and i wasnt willing to wait for it to happen again haha.   Im close to 1000hrs so i figured it was a good time to get the modules 'overhauled'.   I am still considering replacing with completely new ones from Rotax once i get over the price :)      One note re Carmo....   they 'overhauled' the inside but it was another price to include the wires and the sheath. I didnt realize this until i got the units back and the sheath still looked its old self.  I thought this would have been a cheap replacement for them to have included.  

  10. cdarza

    CTLS crash

    Condolences to the family.
  11. Excellent video - can't believe am only seeing it now. Thanks for sharing.
  12. Wishing everyone the best in this very difficult time.
  13. Ive used Velcro in many applications - and if you use the right amount - there is no way that is gonna come loose. However, if there is enough heat, the 'glue' could melt and not hold well in place. (this happens in my car when left in direct sunlight) and -- unless you are planning to do some uncoordinated acro, I would think you are good with just the velcro.
  14. I was passing a King Air 350 at great speed the other day. Was pretty darn close - close enough to see the pilots face filled with shock and amazement. Then all i heard was PULL UP PULL UP...........!! lol - As you mentioned. Slow post days = sketchy humour
  15. AND - Go grab yourself a 360cam (i dont have any brand preference) But the view/angle will be at your choice when editing - makes all the difference.
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