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Everything posted by cdarza

  1. cdarza

    CTSW - climbed to 17,000' this morning

    Whilst you are flying out there - watch out for a couple of crazy, awesome dudes flying around on their paragliders.
  2. cdarza

    Battery charger

    For those using Odyssey batteries or any battery that is the same. Info is from Odyssey; ODYSSEY Battery basics… ODYSSEY batteries are an AGM Lead Acid battery however the TPPL (Thin Plate Pure Lead) technology requires that the batteries be charged at a higher amp than most batteries and maintained at a slightly higher voltage than other standard lead acid batteries on the market. They are also truly dual purpose batteries that can be used for both cranking and deep cycling. Due to the technology, proper charge maintenance is critical to maximizing the life and performance of the ODYSSEY battery. Most conventional batteries are considered fully charged at 12.6-12.7V. The ODYSSEY TPPL AGM battery is not considered fully charged unless it has a resting voltage of at least 12.84V. The usable energy of the ODYSSEY battery is from 11.2V (0% state of charge) OCV to 12.84V OCV (Open Circuit Voltage should be checked 8 – 24 hours post charge with no loads). When the battery goes below 10.0V OCV it is over discharged and is getting into the chemical part of the battery and can cause permanent damage. At less than 10.0V the ODYSSEY limited warranty deems the battery over-discharged due to abuse or neglect (usually unintentional). The ODYSSEY charger/maintainer or any approved maintainer can maintain the ODYSSEY battery indefinitely in or out of the application provided it has enough charging current to counteract the parasitic loads of the application. If the battery becomes over-discharged (below 11.0V OCV) then the sooner the battery can be fully charged the better. If the battery remains connected to the application during storage or extended periods of non-use, to prevent over-discharge and maintain the battery at a full state of charge, an ODYSSEY program approved maintainer would be required and/or disconnecting the battery prevent over discharge. There is a link to a list of ODYSSEY approved 12V chargers located on the ODYSSEY website Literature page for your reference. The list of approved 12V chargers is provided due to the many chargers that are programmed for the vast majority of batteries on the market that prefer low amp charging and lower float voltages that do not fully charge or maintain the ODYSSEY battery properly. The minimum recommended charging current for an ODYSSEY battery is 40% of the 10 hour amp hour rating of the battery for cyclic or deep discharge applications (for example about 3A for a single 8Ah rated PC310 for example), a constant float voltage of 13.5-13.8V and no constant voltages exceeding 15.0V in any kind of de-sulfation/reconditioning/equalize mode. At greater than 15.0V the battery can overcharge, overheat, and/or go into thermal runaway. Maintaining any ODYSSEY battery at less than 13.5V will bring the battery down and maintain it in an undercharged condition causing sulfation and premature failure. This would not be considered a warrantable manufacturing defect failure. For seasonal applications (non-daily use applications that set for more than 3 days in a row frequently) regular use of an approved maintainer that meets the charge voltage requirements noted in the previous paragraph is highly recommended during the season and/or a disconnect switch. The preferred storage method is to fully charge the battery before storing and disconnect the battery from the application (shelf storage mode). Stored in or out of the application with no loads, the battery would not require charging for up to 2 years at 77°F or until it reaches 12.0V, whichever comes first before charging is required. The self-discharge rate increases significantly for temperatures above 25°C (77°F) and for every 10°C (18°F) temperature increase the storage time to recharge is decreased by half. Charge maintenance is critical to maximizing the life and performance of the battery. Freezing will not harm the battery and self-discharge rates reduce significantly at colder temperatures. It is recommended that the ODYSSEY battery be charged if it is less than 12.65V (about 80% state of charge) when put into use as a cranking battery per the ODYSSEY Owner’s Manual (link provided on website Literature page for your reference). Most standard alternators are meant to top off a slightly discharged battery and maintain a fully charged battery. Most standard alternators/stators are not meant to be deep discharge recovery chargers and can become damaged if consistently used like one as well as not fully charging the battery with limited use. A battery discharged to below 80% capacity may not reach a full state of charge, regardless of how long you drive the vehicle using a standard alternator. Typical alternators only run at full amp output for a very short period of time before reaching its charging voltage and dropping into a very low amp trickle charge. Luckily enough, ODYSSEY batteries are very efficient at accepting high amp charging for quick charging. Low amp trickle “charging” a discharged ODYSSEY battery is very inefficient and also causes premature sulfation. With the use of a 3A or higher amp charger that does not exceed 15.0V, the PC310 battery for example, should charge to a high state of charge (at least 85% SOC) then, an approved lower amp trickle maintenance charger should be able to complete charging process without prematurely sulfating the battery. The Cyclic Charge Voltage range printed on the top label of the battery is the recommended voltage at the battery from the applications charging system (alternator or stator). At less than 14.1V the battery may not be getting fully charged for infrequently used applications. You can verify the battery voltage by checking the voltage at the battery at least 8 hours after application use (or off charge) and if the battery voltage is not at least 12.84V then the battery is not considered fully charged. Voltage readings taken right off charge or after use (alternator/stator charging) will be inflated and inaccurate so for a true OCV reading, you should wait at least 8 hours before checking the voltage (OCV) with 24 hours being preferred. Any lower amp (less the 3A for PC310 for example) charger that floats between 13.5-13.8V at the battery and never exceeds a constant voltage of 15.0V in any kind of automatic reconditioning, equalize, de-sulfation mode can be used as a maintainer only provided the charging current is high enough to counteract the parasitic loads of the application and maintain the acceptable voltage in float mode at the battery. With proper charge maintenance, a comparable Ah rated battery should have a service life of 2-3 times that of the same sized (Ah rated) battery in the same application with the same usage. ODYSSEY batteries have an 8-12 design life and have been known to function successfully well past the design life of 12 years for UPS applications where the battery is maintained at all times. Here is the link to the program approved charger listing from the ODYSSEY website Literature page for your reference. http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_approved_12V_chargers.pdf. http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ProceduretorecoverdeeplydischargedODYSSEY.pdf deep discharge recovery procedure to fool a charger with a low voltage safety feature that prevents charging what appears to be a 6V battery at less than 7-9V on a 12V charger or charger setting. http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf reconditioning cycling procedure to reverse sulfation and recover capacity and cranking amp from improper charge maintenance. For deep or over discharge recovery, I recommend charging the battery with a high current charger that does not exceed 15.0V as many times as it takes for the battery to take and maintain a charge without overheating. 8-10 hours a day with an overnight rest. If overheating to the point of venting or you cannot hold your hand on it occurs, discontinue charging and allow to cool completely for 24-48 hours before attempting to charge again. If this situation repeatedly occurs when the battery voltage on charge is not exceeding 15.0V then the battery is severely sulfated from being in a deeply or over discharged state too long and is no longer recoverable. The reconditioning cycling procedure (manual de-sulfation 2nd link above) should be performed at least 2 times (assuming the battery is taking a charge, not overheating during charging, but is not performing well). Improvement would be indicated with longer run times with each successive discharge to the same discharge cutoff voltage under the same loads. Discontinue cycling once the discharge time remains the same for two successive discharges. The longer the battery remains in a deeply or over discharged state, the harder it will be to recover.
  3. cdarza

    Battery charger

    I have a Mean Well charger that indicates a output charge of 13.5v (actual measured at 13.2v) - been using this for 12 years now and only just recently i have had to replace 2 odyssey batteries too soon. One lasted just over a year and the current one i am using, is showing signs of discharge at only 6 months old. So this has me checking what might be causing the battery failures. Did a parasitic test and wasnt getting any drain. Still dont have a reason so any pointers as to what i might try to check would be appreciated. The other thing that i am confused about is that i had correspondence with Odyssey Batteries and they informed me that the 13.5v battery charger output i have is well below the recommended 14.4v-14.7v thus maintaining the battery in a constant discharged state. Based on this info i am know looking for a higher output charger however this is all new news to me as the 13.5v charger was working quite fine for almost a decade. Edit: Clarification. Having reread the Odyssey email, it says that the 13.5v will not fully charge a deeply or over discharged battery. (key words being deeply and overly discharged)
  4. cdarza

    Dynon slow startup

    My D100 is coming of age. 12 years now and just recently has shown signs of age. Delayed / slow start up. It can take up to 4 or 5 minutes for the unit to 'warm up' and finally show the display on the screen. I figure i will send this in to Dynon for inspection and hopefully repair. Just curious if anyone with a similar experience. As nice as new skyview would be, i am not eager to shell out over 3K just yet
  5. cdarza

    Stick on Slip Indicator

    and the cheapest .....is to develop high sensitivity as to where your butt feels like its going
  6. cdarza


    I have a Garmin 327 which is totally different than your setup. However, your description sounds very familiar when i had transponder problems. Mine turned out to be a bad connection from the transponder to the mounting bracket - which was off by as little as 1mm (which was basically a bad connection to the antenna). My non expert advice is to double check what 'appears' to be a good antenna connection and make sure 100% that it is.
  7. cdarza

    Oil Change instructions

    Bear with my humor. Too much caffeine on a rainy day I wanna go fly
  8. cdarza

    Oil Change instructions

    Depends - what brand is your propeller
  9. cdarza

    Dynon slow startup

    Dynon responded to my email and said it might be a hardware problem. I will try the software update first as you mentioned and if that doesn't work, by chance I will be traveling to the US in a couple weeks so I will bring it and send it in for a checkup.
  10. cdarza

    Alternator light

    Update - i was able to borrow and install another rectifier whilst waiting for the new one. Now operational which confirms the other 'fried' rectifier is not working.
  11. cdarza

    Alternator light

    Seems like the rectifier got fried. I did a temporary direct connection (without the connector block) and I am not getting any charging. The connector block melted a bit too much to be useable. Hope its nothing bigger than a bad rectifier. Will update when I have the replacement.
  12. cdarza

    Alternator light

    Ah -ok. I will clean it up and reseat it before possibly replacing. Thanks
  13. cdarza

    Alternator light

    Alternator light came on just as i lifted into the air this afernoon. Returned to land and inspected the regulator / rectifier .. found slight burn /melted plastic marks on one of the connectors. I will replace, however is there something else i should be checking that might have caused this ? or perhaps just a bad regulator ? i changed a bad regulator some years ago so this will be the second one for me.
  14. cdarza

    EGT question for the experts?

    i have a 2006 CTSW - i am considering installing a EGT. Just to match my current gauge sizes i opted for UMA 1 1/4 gauge. Would it be best if i install 2 probes and could i just have a switch to flip flop between the 2 probes or is 1 probe sufficient.? (is a special switch needed for this - or can i just install any toggle switch? ) Thanks!
  15. cdarza

    Prop Issue -- Cosmetic or Serious?

    I had cracks on my Neuform a little different than yours and I wasn't too sure if it was just the paint. I decided it was not worth worrying about and went for the Sensenich props. (Note; it was going to cost me almost the same to have it sent in, examined and repaired so it clearly wasn't a tough decision) and the Neuform didn't go to waste. Hanging happily on bedroom wall.
  16. cdarza

    Sudden Power loss

    I still have the stainless steel fuel connector on a CTSW 2006. Have not had any problems with this until today. I recently completed a rubber hose change and a couple of flight hours after the change, the connector started leaking in flight. Luckily no power loss, no vibration and the engine performed perfectly for the 1 hour flight except that my passenger and I noticed a very faint smell of fuel that got us a little concerned. Upon landing I had a noticeable fuel leak with fuel dripping from under the cowl. (I estimate 4 to 5 drips/ second). Initial findings; the connector was loose, and required some tightening. After some tightening there was still a small drip and we had to redo the attachment making sure the connector was aligned, seated properly and tightened. Ground run ups seems be good now but I will be checking on this much more. Are the older CTSW's still using the stainless steel connectors or have most of you splurged and moved to the Teflon hoses? Seems the complete Teflon fuel hose change would run $2k ?
  17. cdarza

    What is that gunk in my carburetor bowl?

    Mr Vance, i too have had exactly what you described above. I could not figure out what/ where it came from. I have also had corrosion on the floats bowls. This was a big concern to me so I replaced the bowls only to have the same thing happen on the new ones within the first few months. I make it a habit now to check the bowls every month. (using non ethanol mogas)
  18. cdarza

    Power loss in flight

    Carb bowls as Roger stated. That would be the first place to look.
  19. cdarza

    Observing turbulence being created

    You can rename the area on the right "Rotor City"
  20. cdarza

    Control Lock

    Bungee cords work for me ...
  21. cdarza


    Yes it is not from the radio. After some cleaning and cleaning and cleaning - it has not come back for the last 2 flights --- fingers crossed ! thanks
  22. cdarza


    Trouble shooting - I have been having a intercom noise (squeal) that comes and goes . I can go 10-30mins inflight without a problem then it comes on and only when intercom is activated will it go away - comes back few seconds later when intercom is not active. Like when you talk, the intercom is activated and the squeal goes away and few seconds later when intercom is not active anymore - the squeal is back. I switch the intercom off then back on and sometimes it will go away and sometimes it wont. I have tried cleaning all the contacts i can think of. Any other ideas or anyone have a similar problem? PM3000Model PS Engineering
  23. YEAH !! I am still waiting for him (Roger) to take a trip to the Philippines and work on my aircraft
  24. cdarza

    912 ignition modules

    Update. I made a temporary connection to a slightly larger battery (than the PC310) and it starts perfectly.
  25. cdarza

    912 ignition modules

    How to jump start ? I suspect, or rather I am convinced my battery life is over as I do not get enough of a crank spin to start the engine. (battery has been fully charged). I attached jumper cables to my car and got a bit faster crank but still very slow and not enough to start. Even with cables attached it acts like the battery is too weak. I do not intend to fly with this weak or dead battery however I am curious why I can't get the start even with jumpers. My only thought is, does the jumper cable lose current from the car side to the aircraft side resulting in very little electrical current provided to the weak battery? (am using regular jumper cables you buy at the car shop) note battery is a odyssey pc310 - sadly this is only 2 years old