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Tom Baker

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About Tom Baker

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    Master Star Fighter

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  1. The best choice if the lines are long enough is to eliminate the splice completely and go direct to the ADAHRS. Second choice would be a straight splice. I guess you are doing a static system check because you plan to fly IFR?
  2. 061113_FD_Manufacturer_Approval_for_Alu_foil_tape (1).pdf
  3. The oil cooler is typically centered on the radiator.
  4. I'm not sure, but there might have been one. That was kind of back in the cowboy days before everyone really understood the rules.
  5. Did your plane come from Minnesota? There was a mechanic for the distributor up there that designed and installed a system like that. The only problem was that it blocked some air when all was open. On some airplanes this caused an issue for summer operations.
  6. You want a good quality foil tape with or without a paper backing. I know one roll I have is 3M brand. A good heating air company that does duct work should have some.
  7. You are correct in that they are shipped separately. but the charge for shipping the chute and rocket is $150. Above the rocket invoiced by itself was $150 for shipping. I may have overstated the cost savings now that I think about it. It may just be $60 for just the chute.
  8. Plus it looks like they charge $150 for shipping of the parachute and rocket, or just the rocket by itself. That is another $150 savings.
  9. The airplane is registered to a Delaware corporation. You can do a airman search on the FAA website as well. They do have a person by that name living in Arizona. Also a quick Google search shows that he may have an accounting firm too.
  10. IMO don't waste money on the thermostats, just use a strip of the foil tape. I always used a 2" wide piece all the way across the top here in South central Illinois. You might want to add an extra inch to the middle 8" to help a little more with oil temp. I have had both CTSW and CTLS. The CTLS has the thermostats as standard equipment, and I still wound up using a strip of tape. You will need to be cautious when Spring comes. When the air temps reach about 60° you could start to see the coolant get hot.
  11. It should have been done with the second chute repack. I think there is a price break when they are done together.
  12. I would use Bowlus tape. I tried one of the cheaper glider tapes. It was not as glossy, so it didn't blend in with the finish as well, it would creep easier, and left more of a gooey residue. IMO the Bowlus tape is worth the extra money.
  13. I don't think you have your facts straight. Early on Flight Design had their props over pitched. Reducing RPM was not needed, because the RPM could barely go over 5200 full throttle level flight. This excessive prop pitch is what led to failures. Rotax recommends the engine turning a higher RPM for take off, they don't like lugging the engine. The problem with a slick airplane like the CT is that if you set the propeller for the RPM that Rotax wants for take off, it will easily over speed in cruise. Years of experience have shown that setting the RPM so that you can achieve 5500-5650 full throttle level flight at the altitude that you want to fly will give the overall best performance for a CT. I suspect other slick airframes will be similar. Also the early Rotax engines had a lighter crankcase that was more prone to cracking. Since Flight Design was one of the early light sport producers they used more of the early engines with the light crankcase. Larger production numbers, the early crankcases, plus how they set their props gave the appearance of more failures. In reality I don't think the percentage of failures was any higher. The heavier crankcases have not had any issues that I am aware of.
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