Jump to content

Tom Baker

Members
  • Content Count

    4,360
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    81

2 Followers

About Tom Baker

  • Rank
    Master Star Fighter

Profile Information

  • Location
    KOLY
  • Interests
    Airplanes
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The heater control pulls against a spring at the heater box. the spring is trying to pull the control closed. The CTLS without injection have a block that the cabin and carb heat go through. inside that block is a spring and a couple scrubbers that put friction on the two control shafts. If it is pulling closed you don't need to lubricate the cable. If you have lubricated the shafts behind the knobs that is your problem. A temporary fix would be to get a piece of rubber hose long enough to fill the gap between the knob and the panel. Slit the side of the hose and slip it over the shaft.
  2. Please understand that Flight Design USA is a vary small operation, and they can be hard to get ahold of sometimes. Like myself most here are in the US, and not really familiar with the Canadian regulations.
  3. I have replaced a few using Roger's pins. I adjusted the thickness using a belt sander. I went slow, and it took a while because they get hot while sanding. I was able to adjust pressure to keep the true.
  4. It does happen, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_Indiana_Flight_216
  5. My recommendation is to keep the fire extinguisher in the back of the seat as designed, and add additional in the floor board if desired. Personally I can't reach either of the floor compartments while sitting in the airplane.
  6. You can take the headliner down and clamp the lines overhead. No need to drain the wing tanks.
  7. What I was referring to is called a Del Seal. Here is the link to Aircraft Spruce for the aluminum seal. They are available in copper too. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/del37fittings.php?clickkey=7456981
  8. The blue nuts are a standard aircraft "B" nut for a flared fitting. They do make a special soft aluminum gasket for these fittings, but they are not normally used. The only place I have used them before is on a aircraft air conditioning system.
  9. Flight Design has two different sized for the dampers. 20mm for the CTSW and 25mm for the CTLS or something like that. I just went through this trying to get the parts for the upgrade on a CTSW.
  10. The polyurethane dampers were part of a free suspension upgrade for the nose gear. The original was a very heavy spring.
  11. Tom Baker

    Piston Head

    MEH or anyone else, are you aware of a burnt valve on a Rotax 912 that happened during normal operations, or any any other conditions for that matter?
  12. Which airplane? Roger Lees has them, but they are the larger size for the CTLS, but in my opinion they will work on the SW. Flight Design USA has both sizes.
  13. Tom Baker

    Piston Head

    I am the one who said, "Rotax is not prone to the same issues as other aircraft engines". You took my comment wrong in thinking I meant they are less prone to failure. Rotax has ceramic coated aluminum cylinders, so rust is not an issue like it is on Lycoming and Continental. This is one of the reasons for using a bore scope. Second Rotax has liquid cooled heads, so it does not normally see the heat issues with valve that Lycoming or Continental does. This is another reason for using a borescope. I in no claimed that Rotax was less prone to failure. Rotax engines do fail, but the failure mode is normally diferent than Lycoming and Continental. They typically do not have the cylinder failures thatthe big two have.
  14. I have never had to completely re-glue one. I have chipped out the top layer and ran a bead of JB weld around to fix a weep. If you tape around the opening and the filler you can lay in a nice bead. let it start to tack up, and pull the tape. It will still flow and leave it looking nice.
  15. If the red anodized ring is turning, then yes it needs to be addressed. They are glued in place with a fuel resistant epoxy. I think that the traditional JB Weld should work, but you can check with Arian at FDUSA for his opinion on what to use. When gluing it back in place I would drain the fuel, and try and get a rag spread out on the bottom of the fuel tank below the filler to catch any epoxy drips. you should be able to pull it back out through the filler.
×
×
  • Create New...