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About MarcF

  • Rank
    Jr. Crew Member
  • Birthday 07/02/1958

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  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Location
    Fréjus, France
  • Interests
    motorbike, sailing, microlight
  • Gender
  1. Overload clutch and gearbox friction torque

    WIll not try anyway. In fact I found the notch at TDC by removing the #cylinder 1 sparks plug but even with a light, the hole is ... tiny ! Anyway the crank was properly blocked but I never succed to reach 30°. Will try again anyway. I agree with Bill: "It's conversations like these that make this forum worthwhile".
  2. Overload clutch and gearbox friction torque

    I dio have a rotax 100 HP 2008. I will do it again this WE but once blocked I couldn't reach more than 15% But it true that I tried only counterclockwise when I face the propeller. Not so easy to find the hole to insert the pin ! Thanks again
  3. Overload clutch and gearbox friction torque

    thanks Roger, I will do it. Just need to fly 1 hour to go to a mecanics. Nevertheless, I dont reach 30°, barely 10 to 15°. I measured it twice with different propeller position so i believe the measurement is OK. Friendly Marc
  4. Overload clutch and gearbox friction torque

    Hello, I measured it and found beetween 23 and 25 N.m instead of 30-60 N.m. The point is that once blocked, the gearbox turn no more than 10-15° whatever the torque I apply is. The plane is only 400 hrs old. Am I supposed to put the gearbox down or wait for 600 hrs? What are the consequences on the engine if I wait (as long as there is no schock on the propeller) ? PS the engine run very smoothly when idle..
  5. Overload clutch and gearbox friction torque

    Ok I will do it carefully. If it is OK, I don't care about this noise and I will wait 600 hr to send the gearbox to Rotax for checking. Thanks again
  6. Overload clutch and gearbox friction torque

    it is true that it is never too late to learn something. Each time I post a question, I am never disappointed. I just have to find the tool (don't appear to be delivered with the CT in France) and test the torque. thanks again
  7. Overload clutch and gearbox friction torque

    You're right. I meaned I have no abnormal iron deposit...
  8. Overload clutch and gearbox friction torque

    Hi Roger, Hi Anticept, Hi Runtoeat, Thanks everybody. I use Yacco Aero AVX 500 10-40w, change oil in duty time (rather 50hrs than 100 hrs, at least one time by year, don't use Avgas more than 10% of my flight time. Last time I canged oil: 10 hrs ago. No iron on the magnetic cap. The noise occurs only when rotating the prop by hand on a warm engine (not when cold). No idea of the torque value. How can I measure it ? Am I supposed to put the gear box down for that? Very friendly
  9. Overload clutch and gearbox friction torque

    Hello, I just have a question. My CTLS is now 410 hrs and 6 yrs old. He works perfectly since I changed the ignition boxes. When I turn the prop to check the oil level, engine cold, everything is OK. When I do it on a warm engine following a long fly I can hear a shrill screech. Only when engine is hot. Of course, while running, I can't hear anything (too noisy). Do you believe it could come from the gearbox (friction torque) ? Must I do something ? Thanks for the advice. Friendly Marc
  10. Failed ignition modules

    Thanks, I will do it. Nevertheless, the problem may have occur during my last trip in the desert of south Marroco while, in France where I am based, I have no chance to reach those temp (except if the weather becomes drastically warmer in the future...). I am convinced that the modules are guilty as when I make the test with another pair, the engine starts immediately ... Will stick a temp strip anyway ... hoping that if it turns hot, it will not be too late ...
  11. Failed ignition modules

    Hello, Unfortunately, I am frighten that I have a problem with my ignition modules since I came back from Marrocco. It is possible that after a flight and parking on the apron in the south of the country (sometimes 40°C outside air temperature), temperature under teh cover exceeds 65°C when the engine is still hot.. I understand that I have to change them because the ignition is more and more difficult even with a full charged battery. Once the engine started, it works perfectly well and no problem to retart it immediately. The question is: to avoid to burn a new couple of modules, am i supposed to create a window (air vent) through the engine cover ? Do you have suggestion to design such an air vent ? Friendly Marc
  12. Partial Flap failure

    Flaps OperationManual_1.5.pdf Solved. The manual that was sent with the board was not the right one. I put in attached file the good one (the relay is included on the board and not ijn the firewall). To select European vs US Display of flap position, the manual is inclear. The pin 1 is effectively at the bottom (not on the top) of the board, where the gap is. Hope this could help another pilot ... Thanks for all and thanks again to Anticept for its advices.
  13. Partial Flap failure

    Hi Everybody, I still need advices. Finally the problem seemed to be the card. I bought a new one (fortunately "only" 300 euros) and I replaced the card. The problem is partially solved. Now I do have 5 positions for the flaps + 2 (1 manual up and 1 manual down). So I recovered the 0 position and the display is Ok (OO instead of --). But I still have two problems: 1/ at the -12 position, the LCD displays -6 as do the US CTLS (in Europa it is -12). Anyway it is not a major concern compared to the second problem. 2/ I cant' enter in the setup mode: when I connect the switches SW1 and SW2, and when I use the SW2 up/down switch, the flaps immediately returns in the position selected by SW3. It is not possible to maintain the flaps at the right angle, they always returned at the position set by the SW3 switchn whatever this position is. So I cannot rroperly adjust the flaps. Of course I can't fly like this as all the flaps positions are related to wrong angles. I am 100% sure that my connections are good. Whant can I do ?
  14. Partial Flap failure

    Thanks everybody. I bet on the rotary switch too. I tried the elelectric contact cleaner in first but unfortunately it does not seem to be simply dust .. will tell you ...