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DownUnderFlier

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About DownUnderFlier

  • Rank
    Jr. Crew Member
  • Birthday 07/22/1959

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    nodawurri@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Victoria, Australia
  • Interests
    CT2k, Falcon UL, Rotax 277, Rotax 912, Buell bikes
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Investigation of loud creaking/banging noises on taxiing, revealed that the 2 pilot-side's bushes (in bulkhead behind the pilot seat and in rear-reinforcement in the luggage compartment) for the MainGear's M8 bolt, had come adrift and needed re-fixing. Now enjoying peaceful taxiing ...
  2. Hi Andy, I tried ADE-WERK GmbH for a replacement actuator .. they directed me to their 'distributor' for this part: Flight Design, Germany (no response from them yet). I did see a bunch of 150mm linear actuators on eBay - cheap-as-chips .. David
  3. Hi Dick. I just took Corey's advice and re-greased the Jack-Screw. The grease that I cleaned off the Jack-Screw and around the Gearbox was, in places, quite hardened and so wouldn't have been much good for smoothing the action. The re-greased Jack-Screw certainly screws in and out much easier (when twirling by fingers to extract it and re-insert it) than before - I did feel some binding on the Jack-Screw initially, but this seems to have been overcome by the new grease and the oil in the gearbox. The hardest bit of the process was being a contortionist doing it all through the Luggage-Door. Cheers, David
  4. UPDATE : After cleaning and greasing with Moly, the Flaps behaved much better - for a short while - then, just as bad as before ! Removed the motor/gearbox again, and observed that even a tiny glob of the new Moly grease going through the gears, caused the motor to labour. Cleaned the gearbox out and put some Shell Advance VSX4 oil in it (there is a gasket between the electric motor and the gearbox) leaving the Moly on the jack-screw and bearing-races. After several flights and much Flaps cycling, all now working perfectly. David
  5. Thank you, Corey and cdarza !! Had a slow & uneven flaps actuation (see video). Inspired by Corey's description and cdarza's photos, I leapt in and dismantled, cleaned and re-greased the Flaps Actuator in our CT2k. Much smoother action now. Thank you again for generously sharing this knowledge. David Australia IMG_1663.m4v
  6. Thanks Corey. The current straps are factory-installed for Junkers 472.5Kg MTOW and if I add 'extensions' to them, they will be from higher-load BRS1350HS straps. I roughly measured the in-situ straps as being approx.91" and the FD Parts Manual describes the BRS ones as 132". BRS Installation Manual gives guidance on setting attitude-under-chute (ensuring that front wheel hits first to absorb impact energy, etc), so determining the lengths of front and rear straps to achieve a front-wheel down attitude shouldn't be too much of a problem (thanks Mr Pythagoras). I am figuring that having a 'second-chance' device that might work, is better than not having anything at all - thinking of those fatalities where the PiC had a suspected heart-attack and went in, killing the passenger etc ... Thank you again for your input. David
  7. CTFLIER = Good Source of Great Minds 8-)
  8. Thank you Tom. I did think about that - only downside would be adding additional 'bits' (ie potential weaknesses). But, most probably the simplest solution. Thanks again. David
  9. Thanks Mike - that is another solution that I had considered, only downside is that it adds 'bits' (ie potential weaknesses) ... but it may well be the simplest solution. Thanks again for your thoughts. David
  10. Thanks Corey & Roger ... I tried to hunt-down what the previous+previous owner did with the Junkers gear ... alas, no joy. Have posted a "wanted to buy" for replacement Junkers gear. I guess another possibility would be to get a new rear-harness built that is also 40" shorter (to account for the shorter Junkers front harnesses) & fit the BRS1350HS ... hmmm ... 8-)
  11. Looking for a Junkers Chute & Rear Harness to replace the one removed from our CT2k by a previous (mis-guided) owner. Whilst I have a BRS1350HS that would fit, as the harnesses are different to the Junkers ones factory-installed inside the 'A' pillars (Junkers 40" shorter than BRS ones), I would need to remove them and re-thread the BRS ones through the 'A' pillars - Roger & Corey advised it would be very difficult to do - hence I am looking for Junkers gear ... Any leads gratefully received. David 8-)
  12. History: our CT2k used to have a Junkers chute installed (472.5Kg MTOW) .. the Australian rules changed and the CT2k's MTOW was raised to 544Kg .. an overly-excited compliance-frenzied mechanic removed the chute because the MTOW sticker on the instrument panel had been changed from "450Kg" to "544Kg" ... no chute is better than a 472.5Kg one, right ?! Now: have purchased a new-old-stock BRS 1350HS complete with the 4 kevlar harnesses (ex an FD MC model) and want to fit to our CT2k. Issue: the front harnesses that run inside the 'A' pillars for the Junkers chute are about 40" shorter than the BRS ones and so I want to replace those with the new, higher-capacity BRS ones - ie thread the new BRS harnesses through the 'A' pillars. Question: anyone ever removed the front harnesses ? ... would it be possible to pull through the BRS ones (attached by a cord to the Junkers ones I will be pulling out) ? Many thanks for any thoughts, wisdom, experience. David 8-)
  13. Thank you, Corey and Roger. Checked the IgnitionSwitch wiring, Ground was good, IgnitionSwitch functioning correctly, & continuity to end of each white Grounding wire at IgnitionModules was good. Then I found the problem ... a sneaky, internally-broken brown wire (wire felt like it had no 'backbone') near the connector where the white Grounding wire comes from the IgnitionSwitch to the bottom IgnitionModule - so it could never turn off. Fixed that and now it is working like it should. Thank you again ! David.
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