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DownUnderFlier

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About DownUnderFlier

  • Rank
    Jr. Crew Member
  • Birthday 07/22/1959

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    nodawurri@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Victoria, Australia
  • Interests
    CT2k, Falcon UL, Rotax 277, Rotax 912, Buell bikes
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Thanks Corey. The current straps are factory-installed for Junkers 472.5Kg MTOW and if I add 'extensions' to them, they will be from higher-load BRS1350HS straps. I roughly measured the in-situ straps as being approx.91" and the FD Parts Manual describes the BRS ones as 132". BRS Installation Manual gives guidance on setting attitude-under-chute (ensuring that front wheel hits first to absorb impact energy, etc), so determining the lengths of front and rear straps to achieve a front-wheel down attitude shouldn't be too much of a problem (thanks Mr Pythagoras). I am figuring that having a 'second-chance' device that might work, is better than not having anything at all - thinking of those fatalities where the PiC had a suspected heart-attack and went in, killing the passenger etc ... Thank you again for your input. David
  2. CTFLIER = Good Source of Great Minds 8-)
  3. Thank you Tom. I did think about that - only downside would be adding additional 'bits' (ie potential weaknesses). But, most probably the simplest solution. Thanks again. David
  4. Thanks Mike - that is another solution that I had considered, only downside is that it adds 'bits' (ie potential weaknesses) ... but it may well be the simplest solution. Thanks again for your thoughts. David
  5. Thanks Corey & Roger ... I tried to hunt-down what the previous+previous owner did with the Junkers gear ... alas, no joy. Have posted a "wanted to buy" for replacement Junkers gear. I guess another possibility would be to get a new rear-harness built that is also 40" shorter (to account for the shorter Junkers front harnesses) & fit the BRS1350HS ... hmmm ... 8-)
  6. Looking for a Junkers Chute & Rear Harness to replace the one removed from our CT2k by a previous (mis-guided) owner. Whilst I have a BRS1350HS that would fit, as the harnesses are different to the Junkers ones factory-installed inside the 'A' pillars (Junkers 40" shorter than BRS ones), I would need to remove them and re-thread the BRS ones through the 'A' pillars - Roger & Corey advised it would be very difficult to do - hence I am looking for Junkers gear ... Any leads gratefully received. David 8-)
  7. History: our CT2k used to have a Junkers chute installed (472.5Kg MTOW) .. the Australian rules changed and the CT2k's MTOW was raised to 544Kg .. an overly-excited compliance-frenzied mechanic removed the chute because the MTOW sticker on the instrument panel had been changed from "450Kg" to "544Kg" ... no chute is better than a 472.5Kg one, right ?! Now: have purchased a new-old-stock BRS 1350HS complete with the 4 kevlar harnesses (ex an FD MC model) and want to fit to our CT2k. Issue: the front harnesses that run inside the 'A' pillars for the Junkers chute are about 40" shorter than the BRS ones and so I want to replace those with the new, higher-capacity BRS ones - ie thread the new BRS harnesses through the 'A' pillars. Question: anyone ever removed the front harnesses ? ... would it be possible to pull through the BRS ones (attached by a cord to the Junkers ones I will be pulling out) ? Many thanks for any thoughts, wisdom, experience. David 8-)
  8. Thank you, Corey and Roger. Checked the IgnitionSwitch wiring, Ground was good, IgnitionSwitch functioning correctly, & continuity to end of each white Grounding wire at IgnitionModules was good. Then I found the problem ... a sneaky, internally-broken brown wire (wire felt like it had no 'backbone') near the connector where the white Grounding wire comes from the IgnitionSwitch to the bottom IgnitionModule - so it could never turn off. Fixed that and now it is working like it should. Thank you again ! David.
  9. After doing a bunch of maintenance work (replacing the LargeEngineFrame (old one bent & cracked), 5yr Rubber replacement, Firewall heat-shielding, new FuelPump, Header-wrap, etc) I did an oil purge, checked valve tappets and it starts and runs beautifully on 1&2. At about 3000rpm, get a drop of 150rpm when switched to ignition 2, but when switched to ignition 1, the rpm goes back UP to same as 1&2 ! Turn to "off" and the engine keeps running ! (FlyDat goes blank but the engine keeps running smoothly) Have gone over the earthing points and cleaned all the surfaces with emery paper - no change. The Ignition Modules are the older style, 4-pin connector types.. Any thoughts greatly appreciated. David Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
  10. Genius idea, Roger - super-simple super-effective.
  11. Thanks Roger, I could only find a basic directory link (St Louis Stamping in Ontario !): https://petropages.directory/supplier/st-louis-stamping-inc- If the photo is successfully attached, the Oetiker may have a slightly better 'non-hose-pinchable' design. But I think the SLS ones will do just fine also. Cheers, David
  12. Has anyone had experience with "St. Louis Stamping" (SLS) one-ear hose-clamps ? How do they compare with Oetiker ones ? They look similar, but maybe even a bit better ? David Melbourne, Australia
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