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About sandpiper

  • Rank
    Senior Top Gun
  • Birthday 09/15/1944

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  • Location
    Independence, OR
  • Interests
    flying, travel in motor home, EAA, building my RV-12, airplanes and helicopters in general, automobiles, rifle and pistol shooting
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  1. Fuel is worth a try. My 1991 Stealth Twin Turbo started running poorly and I start thinking big money and parts that are expensive if you can find them. Should have bought the 1991 Corvette instead.Anyway, premium with ethanol was put in in early October and the tank was nearly empty. Filled it with fresh premium and after a few miles the problem went away. Probably would not have had the problem if I had treated it with Stabil back in Oct.
  2. A few years ago I passed a Beech Sierra. I took off right after him and figured he was gone as soon as the gear came up. Didn't happen. After leveling at 4500 MSL I asked if he was still on frequency and could I pull up on his left side. He was on frequency and asked "you mean you're keeping up with me?" To which I replied "no, I'm gonna pass you". He was amazed to say the least. Now, for a CT to pass a Sierra with twice the horsepower and a folding gear is pretty amazing. But, keep in mind that the Sierra is a dog. It was meant to compete with the Piper Arrow and Cessna Cardinal RG but never could. Maybe his was the dog of all Sierras but I still felt pretty good!
  3. Thanks to all of you who have responded to my post. I'll post when all is done but it will be a while given the current condition of the airplane.
  4. Great video. Skiis in the winter and floats in the summer open up whole new worlds of adventure.
  5. Mike, Thank you for the link. It will be a while before I can share thoughts on comparison. The plane is not flyable at this point. It needs a parachute repack and rocket plus a hose change as a minimum. Then, when his mechanic has it ready, it needs an airworthiness certificate. I have talked with the DAR who I know very well and he says it shouldn't be a problem. Apparently this plane was imported from somewhere in the EU, was registered but never got the certificate. It may have never had an annual since arrival here 7 years ago. New owner got a very good deal on it or so I have heard. Maybe I should have run, not walked, away from this?
  6. Yes, worth it. But don't turn down a really good plane just because it doesn't have them.
  7. An acquaintance has acquired a CT-2K and he wants me to check him out in it which I am inclined to do. Having never flown a 2K I thought I would ask those who own one, or have experience in one, to point out how it handles differently compared to the rest of the CT family.
  8. I have tundra gear on my CTSW which I have had for 12 years. Having never flown non tundra I don't how they differ except for the obvious. Old geezers, like myself, may prefer the non tundra because it sits lower and is easier to get into. On mine I have to boost myself up in order to plop my butt into the seat. The few non tundra that I have sat in I didn't need to boost myself up. Just had to turn and plop. My plane gets higher every year. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
  9. Check your nuts/bolts holding the flaps and ailerons onto the wing. On my last condition inspection I tightened those to 80 in-lbs as the manual says to do. What a mess that was. The stick, in roll, would stay where you put it. Finally got with Arian at FD who said that 80 applied to the older planes that had metal bearings and that they stopped using 80 before my plane was made! But the manual was never changed. According to Arian just snug up the nut on the bolt. Do not lubricate with petroleum based products as this is not good for the fiber bearings. Use something like Inox which is not petroleum based. Then put torque seal on so it's easy to spot a problem during preflight.
  10. CT's gotta be hangared. They melt in the rain! Get the aircraft covers and ream out all your drain holes. If there isn't one at this low spot then coordinate with FD to put one there. CT's aren't the only leakers. All my Cessnas leaked. My Lake Amphibian seemed especially bad because the tight hull kept the water in. After any rain I could expect copious quantities to come out each of the drains.
  11. As I stated in another thread, my total cost including shipping came to about $2850. Got it back in October weeks later than stated up front. To be fair about that time they apparently were hit with the flu and were short handed for awhile. Forget Tesla stock, buy BRS!!
  12. The shutter is zip tied to the front of the water radiator using 2 -14" ties. Notice the red dot at upper left of picture. There is one at each corner where the frame is depressed. Tie goes around the front radiator. The width of the entire shutter (11" +/- red dot to red dot) is about the same as the back (oil) radiator. When closed the width of coverage, or blockage, is 8" +/-. When opened the coverage is about 5.5" so each slot is about 1.25" wide. Years ago there was somebody on this forum that made these. I forget who it was. I am not sure if they are still on the forum but if they are maybe they will speak up.
  13. I agree with Tom. But, if you do this it should be entered in your logbook. And, since there is nothing in the airframe maintenance manual outlining this repair, that means FDUSA approval most likely with an MRA. For the same reason, your IA friend cannot make or supervise/sign off this repair.
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