Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About sandpiper

  • Rank
    Senior Top Gun
  • Birthday 09/15/1944

Contact Methods

  • MSN

Profile Information

  • Location
    Independence, OR
  • Interests
    flying, travel in motor home, EAA, building my RV-12, airplanes and helicopters in general, automobiles, rifle and pistol shooting
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

14,299 profile views
  1. I've got the tape, too. Plus some automotive wheel weights on the back inside wall of the pant. Weights were supposed to reduce the shake in the pants. Can't tell a difference either way.
  2. Dick, I live about 10 miles west of Salem, Oregon so don't consider myself to be in a very rural area. So, don't know what factors may have been involved. Sickness at BRS sounds like that was at least part of the delay. If you have a choice try to avoid the period between Thanksgiving and New Years. I know FedEx is always really busy then and some companies shut down for a week or two for Christmas. Good luck.
  3. The first time the rubber hose replacement issue hit this forum big time was when the 2006/2007 CTSW's were 5 years old. At the time it was thought that using fuel injection fuel hoses on the ULS engines was the way to go. Then, several people started having loss of power issues and there was small rubber debris in the float bowls. So, someone I know decided to replace everything except the fuel hoses and to wait until the fuel hose issue was settled. Turned out the fuel injection hoses were too hard for use on barbed fittings. Particles of rubber were being shaved off and turned up in the float bowls eventually to be sucked up against the jet thus interfering with the fuel flow. Loss of power to about 4000 RPM was the usual result which was corrected (until the next time) when the the throttle was closed allowing the piece to drop away. It took a while for this issue to be resolved so this person, who replaced all except fuel hoses, decided to wait for the second 5 year hose change. Then, just when the second 5 year change was about due, his engine lost power on climb out, throttle was closed, power was restored, and rubber debris was found in the float bowls The purpose of this post is to reinforce Tom's post that although 5 years may be conservative, these hoses do need to be changed. And, to be perfectly clear, just like the BRS, when time is up, plane is to be grounded although in the case of the BRS there is a provision for "ferry" flights. Plan for these expenses and do the work when it is supposed to be done. One way to save some money on this, and other maintenance/inspections, is to take the three week course to get your LSRM-A. Yes, it is expensive, about $4K plus expenses and possibly time away from work. But, you will recoup this investment and learn all about your aircraft. In my case, with 12 years of ownership, I have saved a ton of money.
  4. I would think it's gotta be the floats. Did you remove the carbs and double check? Otherwise, how would it get past the carbs?
  5. Dick, don't know the answers. In my case I have family flying for FedEx so I try to support the company. And, no, I don't get a break. I don't even ask.
  6. On my after market Matco wheels and brakes the axle extends far enough toward the middle of the plane ( beyond the axle housing )so that it is easy to lift the plane using a scissor jack. Been doing it for years. Works great.
  7. Parachute and rocket received together today. So, count on six weeks.
  8. The following is a heads up for those coming up on a BRS repack and rocket replace. It is also me getting this off my chest. Just prior to August 27th I sent my chute to BRS via FedEx. I like to use FedEx since one of my daughters and her husband are both heavy equipment operators for them. This was $150 which included $6K insurance. Other than the receipt I got when I took it to FedEx, and an August 27th acknowledgement that it was enroute and that the delivery date was "pending", I have received no other information from FedEx. On September 3rd I received an email from BRS acknowledging receipt and an invoice for $2,525. BRS said the expected return shipping date was September 20. I paid the invoice the next day. On Friday September 27th and Monday September 30th, I placed several calls to BRS but received no response until the morning of Tuesday October 1st. Apparently there were several people that had been out sick so there were some delays. Perfectly understandable. They said my BRS had been at FedEx since Friday September 27th and should be on its way. As of today, October 5th, I've heard nothing further. To me, this is strange since my previous experiences with UPS, USPS and FedEX all included tracking numbers and notices updating delivery information - I think. So, for all of you coming up on a repack & rocket it looks like you can expect at least a 6 week down time. Hopefully you can plan a time that will have the least impact on your aviating. For me, having just had back surgery, it's no big deal. Can't fly anyway.Even so, it is frustrating.
  9. I got rid of the rubber washers long ago and, like you did Dick, went with a large fender washer inside and a smaller washer on the outside that fits in the depression.
  10. I once passed on the purchase of a very nice C182 because repairs were not documented and the owner denied there had ever been any damage. The shop doing the pre-buy said everything seemed to be done first class and they could not figure out why the owner was trying to hide it. So, my advice is to document and don't ever try to hide anything.
  11. Also wouldn't hurt to use some torque seal so you can tell at a glance if the screws/bolts have moved.
  12. Unless I really have to/want to make the flight, the weather has to be such that I will have a pleasant flight. Even when I really have to/want to make the flight, such as on a trip, there have been many times in my 54 years of flying that I have stayed on the ground.That's even more true today knowing that my proficiency, reflexes, etc are not what they used to be. So, now I usually want a comfortable flight and my biggest question is "are those pancakes or donuts worth it?" I have no absolute numbers when it comes to wind. A lot depends on where I will be flying. 15G20 in the flatlands may be fine but in mountainous areas not so much. Here in the Willamette Valley the coastal range starts rising about 12-15 to the west up tp 4,000 MSL. To the east the Cascades start rising 15 - 20 miles away and go up above 10,000 MSL. At my airport, Independence State (7S5) elev 175 MSL, the wind is usually from the north or south straight down the runway with +/- 30 degree deviation. So, for me at 7S5 when it gets above 12G15K or if more than a 10K direct cross wind I start looking for something else to do. Especially on a warm summer afternoon when turbulence gets uncomfortable. The plane will certainly handle more. I have handled cross winds up to 20K but it wasn't fun. It's even more interesting when that direct cross wind is gusty, say 15G20. Probably just a walk in the park in Ed's country!!
  13. This is the 12th year for my bird so both repack and new rocket required. Even though I read the above invoice two months ago outlining that $2675 cost, it was still a shocker. Add my shipping from this end of $130 and total comes to $2805. Six years ago the price for repack only, including shipping both ways, was less than $1500. Wish my retirement was going up like this has! I guess the alternative is going E-LSA but even then I'm pretty sure I would keep the system operational. It's kind of like the fire department. You never need them until you do. Might be never, might be tomorrow. Time to stop feeling sorry for myself and go have a beer!🎯
  14. I just started my 12th Condition Inspection on my 2007 CTSW (615 hrs TT) and immediately found a problem with the control of the carb heat flapper valve. Early in the inspection checklist it calls for inspection of the carb heat mechanism. which seemed to work fine. Then noticed on the end of the rod running through the air box that the end opposite where the control cable attaches was hanging loose in its guide hole. Missing were the washer and cotter pin that are supposed to hold it in position. This was easy enough to fix but also easy to miss since the mechanism worked fine. Anyhow, just a heads up.
  • Create New...