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FlyingMonkey

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About FlyingMonkey

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    Flying Monkey
  • Birthday December 10

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  • Location
    Georgia, USA
  • Interests
    CTs.
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    Male

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  1. I have done it once. 80kt or less, honestly less than 70kt to be at all comfortable, and 60-65kt is the real sweet spot. It's a wind tunnel for sure. Look at the shape of the airframe, the area in front of the door is narrower than behind the door, so the doors act like big wind scoops and 60+kt wind hits you right in the face. And bugs hit hard at that speed. As Roger said, not really advisable, and not worth it. Especially considering the great visibility of the CT series and the hassle of removing/reinstalling the doors. I have considered trying to make some full plexi "patrol" doors to give the feeling of the open cockpit without the wind.
  2. And remember when the wheel comes off the bearings are going to try to fall out on the floor.
  3. Not trying to start a fight, just gave my opinion.
  4. IIRC alcohol has a higher temperature burn than gasoline, but also requires more to be burned to get the same fuel energy as it's less dense. Because this you probably get better fuel economy in miles per gallon than if you burned E10. If the feds really cared about fuel economy and not just corn subsidies they would go back to 100% gasoline there would be an immediate 3-5% bump in fuel economy for all cars burning pump gas. Also alcohol evaporates forming higher vapor pressure than gasoline and is more prone to vapor lock and similar issues. I know a guy that had an issue with gas bubbles forming in his fuel lines using E10 in his EAB airplane that caused a lot of headaches, disappeared instantly when he went to 100LL. Your non-ethanol gas is probably lower octane than 100LL. The best performance for an engine is the *minimum* octane that can be run without detonation, so you probably do get better power at least than 100LL, not sure about smoothness. I don't know if it's in your head, but there are certainly differences!
  5. There are options... http://www.rotax912exhaust.com/en/ http://toucanexhaust.com/ https://aircraftexhaust.net/rotax/
  6. Hey all... In the process of performing my annual condition inspection, I found some issues with my muffler and heater shroud. First, some engineering notes: The heater shroud is a piece of 0.060" aluminum that is rolled into a cylinder. A tab is cut into it (before rolling presumably), and folded out to provide a "shelf" for the air inlet (also 0.060" aluminum) to sit on. Inside the shroud the inlet has a tab on each side folded out and riveted to the inside of the shroud housing. Some failings I noted of the build: * The slots cut in the shroud to form the sides of the inlet shelf are square cut with no clean up or rounding. The square corners of these slots are stress risers and highly prone to crack formation. One of mine has a 1" long crack growing out from it. * The tabs that attach the inlet to the shroud are flat parts attempting to rivet to the rounded surface of the shroud. The tabs are not fully formed to the inside radius of the shroud. As a result, the rivets form a poor joint, leading to loosening of the rivets over time and increased vibration of the inlet, exacerbating the tendency of the inlet slots or other areas to crack. * All the attachment points for the inlet are on the lower side (rivets to the shelf and the two tabs). There is nothing attaching the upper part of the inlet to the upper area of the shroud. This allows the inlet to flex the lower part of the shroud like a lever, and further increases the chances of crack formation. Here is the crack I found, stop drilled: Here are the ruined tabs I found inside when I removed the shroud: To fix these problems, I did the following (all metal is 6061-T6 aluminum and all rivets stainless steel blind rivets): * Stop drilled any cracks. * Put a large 0.060" doubler under the shelf supporting the inlet, to provide support to the cracked area and increase stiffness and vibration resistance of the shelf. * Cut the tabs off and sealed the area with 0.060" patches. * Riveted a bracket to the top of the inlet, with long "wings" that then are secured against the upper shroud half by the factory clamp. This creates a very stiff, vibration-resistant inlet area, while still allowing adjustability and easy removablility of the shroud. Here are pictures of the doubler I made, and the upper winged bracket and how it attaches. This to me beats the $790.15 that FD-USA quoted me for a new shroud, and will probably last longer. If this one has issues I'll probably make a new one from scratch and do some more re-engineering to improve it further. There is one minor engineering mistake I made here, but if nobody points it out I won't either. Yes, I will be replacing the rubber on the inlet, but since it's warming, I won't be using heat anymore for at least six months, and I want to finish all this work and go fly... I will probably leave that until next fall. There was also one small hairline crack discovered in the muffler itself under the shroud. I had a buddy put a bead of weld on it so that is fixed now as well.
  7. Those Marvel floats say $159 each at Spruce...is that really each, or for a pair? $318 is too high, but $636 for floats is outrageous, even for "permanent" ones.
  8. I'm with you on this. Before a long cross country I usually do an oil change just before and another once I'm back home if burning 100LL.
  9. Just my opinion, but "mogas hunting" is usually not worth the trouble. Sometimes you can find an airport right on your route at approximately the right distance for a fuel stop, and that can be worth it. But if you run mogas normally at home, the small amount of 100LL you'll burn on a long cross country isn't enough to fret about. Using that philosophy, my oil tank out after three years was just cleaned out and it has just the tiniest amount of lead residue in the very bottom of the tank, just wiped right out. Darrell, if on your trip you will be anywhere near KWDR (Barrow County, Georgia) and it's a convenient area for a fuel stop, let me know. I'd love to at least meet up for a few minutes and say hi.
  10. Barring any engine roughness that needs investigation, I usually check the sync and idle twice a year, in Spring and Fall. It usually doesn't need much adjustment, if any...but that's here in Georgia where temps don't swing too widely, 30-95°F typically over the year.
  11. I thought we were having a discussion about when/why we might buy those new Chinese engines. Apologies for bothering you.
  12. Nobody says it's not as good. But I don't want to be a beta tester where aircraft engines are concerned. They may be the greatest thing ever, or junk. My point is we don't know, and I personally would not try to save a grand or two to find out. If the engines were half the price of a Rotax that would be more interesting (and also maybe concerning), but the cost delta is not large enough to justify considering it, IMO. YMMV.
  13. Even if it's not as good? I like competition and having options, but I'm out to get the best engine (preferably at the best price), not to "stick it to Rotax". Doing that would seem like potentially cutting off your nose to spite your face.
  14. Good point, rigging is important. All airplanes are essentially hand-built, and different wings on the same airplane can have small variations in dihedral, washout, etc. Control rods that are supposed to be symmetrical can have a millimeter or two (or more!) different lengths. Control cables can have different tensions, or tensions far off factory spec. Assuming no gross mechanical defects, I'd more concern myself with how the airplane flies and handles than where the surfaces sit in level flight. Many RVs and other types have a flap intentionally run a rod end turn or two out on one side to compensate for a heavy wing. Sure it's adds drag, but it sure beats having the airplane always trying to fly in a circle!
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