Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by FlyingMonkey

  1. Today after flying I was wiping down my Neuform prop, and noticed a number of fine parallel cracks just below the black edge protector, running lengthwise on all three blades. They can be felt with a fingernail. Can those with the knowledge to make a determination please take a look at the pics below and tell me if this looks to be a serious issue or just cosmetic damage to the gelcoat? The prop has right at 600hrs on it and has spent its entire life hangared. I'm supposed to make a flight tomorrow morning, but I'm a bit hesitant now until I get more info. Thanks.
  2. Prop Issue -- Cosmetic or Serious?

    I will evaluating all prop options if it comes to that. The only downside of the Warp is weight. I don't want to add an additional 5-10lb way out at the farthest forward point if I can avoid it. Though the price is certainly right. Corey might have it right with this. The cracks are all under and around the edge protector, and stop where it stops. I'm wondering if there might be excessive flex in the bond between the protector and the body of the blade, causing the gelcoat to crack. In any event, the prop is off the airplane now, and I'll send it to FD as soon as I talk to them, probably Monday.
  3. Prop Issue -- Cosmetic or Serious?

    Carbs synced regularly, including two weeks ago. Prop dynamically balanced a couple of years ago. Airplane always hangared, including previous owner. I'm at a loss here unless the gearbox or prop hub have a problem. Other than that I'd have say it's a bad prop.
  4. Prop Issue -- Cosmetic or Serious?

    Thanks Corey and Roger, I guess it's inspection time. I can remove the prop today, is there any real trick to it other than just unbolting it? Roger, you say you have seen this on a few Neuforms...any reason why? It seems crazy that a prop would start to shred itself at 600 hours without any event to cause it. I'm just trying to think it there is anything I did wrong or could have done to prevent this...
  5. Prop Issue -- Cosmetic or Serious?

    One thing I just noticed in the last picture. There are a few short “cracks” that go almost exactly perpendicular to the direction of the main cracks. That is weird and does look like kind of a stress pattern to me.
  6. Prop Issue -- Cosmetic or Serious?

    That’s why I’m asking, it is important! It seems bizarre to me that the prop would have stress-related cracking at 600hrs when it has been taken good care of and never had any issues previously. The last time I looked it over it looked great, now maybe 5-10 hours later it’s got cracking on all three blades. I will tell you this: if I need a new prop, it will not be a Neuform. Probably a Sensenich.
  7. Prop Issue -- Cosmetic or Serious?

    Negative, I don’t wear jewelry. I only use a microfiber cloth and water with Composiclean bucket wash on it. I find it weird that the marks are on all three blades in the same general areas.
  8. Prop Issue -- Cosmetic or Serious?

    I was hoping for a quick “it’s fine” answer, since I have a lot of flying to do this weekend. But I guess I will have to wait for the experts to weigh in. Asking Arian is a good idea.
  9. IFly 740 question

    It will give you the virtual HSI, and I think it's required for the TAS and wind arrow calculations.
  10. iFly 740b Install

    Hey all... I'm considering installing an iFly 740b in the center panel of my 2007 CTSW, to replace the 496 I currently have installed. In the center panel I currently have a GTX327 transponder, SL40 Radio, the 496 in an Airgizmos dock, and the carb/cabin heat controls. I'm planning to mount the iFly in portrait mode, there's no way it would fit landscape. The nice thing is the width of the iFly dock in portrait mode is identical to the width of the 496 in landscape, 6.25 inches. the problem is that the iFly dock will take up 7.9" vertically, which is a ton of space in the stack. I did some rough measuring. I think if I move the radio and transponder down to the VERY bottom of the panel (there is currently 1" left below them) and move the heat controls up another 1/2" to 1" (almost against the lower lip of the glareshield), it should fit. Barely. Mostly. Does anybody have a 7" iFly installed (700/720/740/740b) in their CT? Pictures, advice, or info would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Upgraded RV-12 Kit

    Honestly, as complete as the RV-12 kit is and and as little finishing as the parts required (e.g. they are match drilled and deburred), I'd probably save the $15k and build it myself. The sheet metal work might be a lot of the build, but with this kit it's also some of the easiest to do.
  12. Kennel Storage?

    Definitely make sure you have hearing protection for your dog, they have much more sensitive hearing than humans. Here's what you need: http://www.safeandsoundpets.com/index.html You could also put sound baffling material around the kennel, but it would have to be thick and have complete coverage to be effective. The muffs are the better solution.
  13. Stick chatter

    I would definitely want to get this sorted out. If it's not the AP it sounds like a potentially dangerous condition. It seems to me that if you were fighting the AP on final you'd eventually break a servo shear pin and the resistance would stop...
  14. Kennel Storage?

    The other possibility is to put the kennel in the baggage bay through the pass through behind the seat. A small kennel should fit through there, and if you leave the pass though cover off you can still get to the kennel by reaching around behind the passenger seat in flight if required.
  15. Metal has a "yield strength", where the material will deform but not break. Composites are typically stronger than metals for the same weight, but have no yield strength. When they reach their ultimate limits, they fail suddenly, sometimes spectacularly. Bother are appropriate for gear legs, but that difference leads to different characteristics when failures do occur.
  16. Thanks Tom, I do understand that I could have a bend not visible to the naked eye.
  17. I have a triangular cushion that raises up the right wheel an inch or so and makes my airplane more or less level. If I park the airplane with full tanks, I put the cushion under the wheel. Mainly though I got in the habit of only adding fuel more than about 12 gallons per side right before a flight. I also quit flying with full tanks when I didn't need to, so that I don't get fuel sloshing out when I'm at a fly-in parked on uneven grass. My airplane is probably one of the more uneven ones out there, the corner of the right droop tip is almost 2" lower than the left. It's been that way since I got it, and there are permanent fuel stains on the underside of the right wing (also since I got it) so it's probably been that way a long time. I kind of suspect a "firm" landing by the previous owner, but I have inspected the gear legs carefully and found no warps, bends, cracks, or other indications of such I could find. It may just have been that way from the factory. I'm used to it, it has not gotten any worse, and I just work around it. It's not a big deal.
  18. Anyone using the echoUAT - ADSB?

    That's what uAvionix suggested when I talked to them. They said proximity to the ELT antenna is not an issue since it doesn't transmit (we hope!), but that the 1m separation to the transponder antenna is critical. My plan it to put it just behind the ELT antenna in the tunnel just under the access panel ahead of the ELT. Easy access there for drilling and setting a ground plane. My only concern is how wide the tunnel is for the ground plane; if it's less than 120mm it's going to be marginal according to uAvionix docs.
  19. You will need a ground plane at least 120mm across (according to uAvionix docs). The glareshield should be fine, but you might have to move it to an external position if the reception is poor.
  20. Anyone using the echoUAT - ADSB?

    I believe he is saying the Skybeacon version (where the antenna is wingtip mounted) had reception issues. This is probably due to the structure of the winglets on the tips blocking the signal in certain directions. I would guess the droop tips on the CTSW would be even worse.
  21. Upgraded RV-12 Kit

    Always take those estimates with a grain of salt. I was building a Sonex, that was a "750 hour" project. 2.5 years in, working a couple of hours each night and all day on both weekend days, I had 700+ hours in it and was about 1/3 complete (Fuselage and tail were done). However, the RV-12 kit is a much more "rivet and go" kit with much less fabrication of parts, so their estimate might be closer to reality. Enjoy the process, you will learn a TON about airplanes by building.
  22. Jerrycan

    A buddy of mine has one that he attached a pressure hose fitting to, and he pressurizes it to 1-2psi and it flows very well and will pump up to a high wing. You don't want to go beyond that pressure on a plastic vessel and risk a rupture, though.
  23. Rolls in a CT?

    A properly executed aileron roll is a 1g maneuver. The key phrase being "properly executed." CT, do you really get negative g's occasionally, or do you mean "less than 1g"? My experience is that true negative g's are hard to get into, and you have to actually try to do it. The most I ever hit in my CT was -0.2g, I was actually trying to do it, and it was pretty uncomfortable and some pens and stuff started floating around the cockpit. It's pretty hard to go beyond 0g in the negative in normal, or even aggressive maneuvering. BTW, Rotax has a -0.5g limit on the 912 series engines, you are not supposed to exceed that in the negative. I'm presuming that's due to the oiling system, as CT2K alluded to.
  24. Anyone using the echoUAT - ADSB?

    I was under the impression that the EchoUAT is dual band, though really there is no need for 1090 in the CT.
  25. Steep Turns

    As long as the ball is centered the airplane should stall straight down, even in an accelerated stall. The trick with the CT is keeping the ball centered, it tends to want to wander about. I imagine the more load in the wing in the stall, the less the ball needs to be put to snap you over.