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Everything posted by FlyingMonkey

  1. CTLS in Flight Simulator 2020? I'm stoked! I have a VR headset, and the last I heard MS reversed course and decided to include VR support in FS2020. If true, flying a CTLS in VR is going to be a *great* training and practice tool. BTW if you have not played a flight sim in VR, it's amazing and immersive; the ability you use your hands to operate controls and to have stereoscopic, 3d vision really makes you feel like you're there.
  2. I totally agree with Roger here. The only entity that can set maintenance procedures and intervals for an S-LSA airplane is the airplane manufacturer, not individual component manufacturers. An engine is a component just like a voltage regulator, an intercom, or a bolt. If a bolt manufacturer said that every bolt on an airplane should be replaced every 12 years, that would not be legally enforceable unless the *airplane* manufacturer stated such. Likewise Rotax cannot mandate an engine replacement or overhaul for an S-LSA, only the airplane manufacturer can do that. The only way you might run into a problem would be if the airplane manufacturer had a statement in their maintenance procedure that all Rotax maintenance and replacement intervals must be adhered to strictly. As far as I know and have read, nothing like that exists for FD.
  3. Sure, that lack of education is the source of the anxiety! For example, the fuel pressure issue. A low FP reading is not a cause for concern IMO as long as the engine is still making full RPM. If it does that it clearly has enough pressure. If the fuel pump fails entirely the airplane can still make enough RPM from gravity feed to affect a safe landing. This obviously is only true for carbed airplanes, fuel injection has a different set of fuel pressure requirements.
  4. Exactly my setup. Sometimes I wonder if the full-fledged EMS systems just create anxiety as they give so much information that it's inevitable that *something* will have an abnormal indication that is not really a problem.
  5. I pulled my stab today, just to look around since I haven't done it in a while. When I went to get the rod ends off the pin, I discovered that, in fact, the pin was swiveling freely. Once I got the stab off I checked everything over, and also found my big bracket attach nuts were under the 200 in/lb spec by a bit, so I tightened them up. I reassembled everything and re-fastened the pin with Loctite 648. I inspected it first -- it showed no signs of wear from being loose. When tightening the rod end nuts again I checked and the pin was no longer rotating. I have noticed that I run out of nose-down pitch trim at high speeds around 120-125kt. I have enough trim, but I'm at the stop. So I lengthened the anti-servo tab rods a half turn to give the tab more travel in the nose down config. On my test flight everything worked fine and I ran the airplane in a dive to 142kt with no issues. I did in fact seem to have more trim authority at high speed, maybe even more than I expected to pick up from just a half turn on the rods. It was a little gusty for 30° flaps landing at minimum speed, so I'll have to wait for a better day to test and see if I lost enough nose-up trim authority to bother me on my slow speed landings of around 48kt at 30° flaps. I'll let ya'll know. PS: Thanks to Roger for telling me the cure time for Loctite 648 (15min). I saw a lot of info on the internet about it, but it was all over the map from 10min to 4 hours. I'm sure it will continue to cure overnight, but it was plenty strong for its purpose after Roger's 15min suggested time.
  6. Thanks buddy, wish you'd been along with us!
  7. Yeah, I pull the carb and inspect the inside every month or two. So far so good.
  8. IIRC Tom uses all approved parts when he does a change, and I think he said it's something like $1200-1400 for everything. Also, I forgot to mention...I inspected and did not see a reason to replace the thick rubber carb sockets on the intakes, and they are pricey. So that saved me $300-400 right off the top in parts. I inspect them closely whenever the cowl is off and will replace them when necessary.
  9. I have been running 93 octane e10 fuel from the local BP station for about six years now. I run 100LL when I have to when traveling, and have run a few other stations' 93/e10 fuel on occasion. I have never had any fuel-related issues. I had a tiny bit of corrosion in the carb bowl bottoms and gascolator bottom a couple years in, but they have not recurred and might have been related to the previous owner's fuel practice (he was old school and I suspect he ran exclusively 100LL). I have never had more than a few stray grains of material in my fuel line filter, no flow issues, no junk in my fuel or carb bowls. I drain a fuel sample before the first flight each flying day, and can count on one hand the number of times I have seems *anything* in the fuel, it's usually a super tiny fleck or two. I suspect (but can't prove) that fuel contamination issues in CTs are cause by a few issues: 1) Possibly poor QA in FD production. Some seem to get a lot of white/tan/translucent debris, this looks to me like it comes from the fuel tanks, possibly bits of composite or flakes of the fuel-resistant lining material. This should have been cleaned out after the tanks were finished, but might have been left behind. Luck of the draw on whether a particular airplane is affected. 2) Poor hose change procedures. When doing the five year rubber change or any hose change, the new hose section should be cleanly cut with a quality tool that leaves no ragged edges behind. It' also a good practice to blow new hoses out with compressed air to clear out any cut hose flakes, dust, or debris from manufacture. 3) Corrosion. This is probably due to water suspended in the fuel. Most mogas doesn't seem to have a serious issue with water, but over time even small amounts of water will corrode metals. The corrosion usually takes place in the carb float bowls or the gascolator. Corrosion doesn't happen overnight, so the solution is pretty simple: inspect your carb bowls and gascolator bowl often, at least once a year during your condition inspection, more often if you can.
  10. Can we? Has that rule ever been repealed?!?
  11. Depends on who does it. I sourced all the rubber myself and did the work myself (E-LSA) and spent about $800. Having an E-LSA airplane I was able to use equivalent parts and not only what FD specified. If you pay somebody to do it using FD blessed parts, you should budget $2500-3000. It's a big job and there are a lot of hours involved. It took me and a friend two full ten hour days. The engine has to be detached from the firewall to access the rear hoses, the exhaust system has to come off to replace the cabin heater duct, you have to do an oil purge after replacing the oil lines...it's just a lot of time-consuming work.
  12. Agreed. Procharger, why did you replace it? Sounds like the old one was working.
  13. That's what I was thinking, if the nuts are tight on the rod ends they provide tension against each other to resist the pin moving side-to-side.
  14. This is where I have trouble...when I take the nuts off I can get one rod end off, but not the other, it jams up against the bracket and there's insufficient clearance to get it off the pin. Does that pin float side-to-side to make more clearance? Like I said I have done it before...but it's been quite a while.
  15. Ah, thanks for the clarification. I only know what I heard second-hand, I didn't do any research on it.
  16. IIRC the lock ring holds it in place and can be removed with standard lock ring pliers, then the bearing just slides out of the housing ("bearing body" in the picture). Not much to it.
  17. My flaps are slow even at 3000+ rpm on the first cycle or two of the day, then they are fine. It's really seeming like a lubrication issue somewhere. I did drill a hole into the motor case as we discussed, and shot INOX over the little gearset in there. Minimal difference, so I think the issue might be the pivots on the wing end. I'll report after lubing all that stuff.
  18. So I reported intermittent slow flap movement speeds in another thread. I have greased the sliding arm and did another fix Roger suggested in a phone call. No dice, it's still slow, but usually only on the first flap movement or two of the day, then it's fine, which to me points to inadequate lubrication *somewhere*... Yesterday when doing a little troubleshooting I noticed on some flap movements, especially when the flaps are going down from -6° or 0°, there is a momentary "bang" noise from the right side wing as the flaps fist start their travel. To me that sounds again like lack of lube, like something is binding up and breaking free. My next step is to get out the INOX and hose down all the pivot points and rod ends in every flap position, to see if I can eliminate any issues with lack of free play. I'm open to any other suggestions if anybody has them. Maybe turn up the flap voltage as Roger mentioned above? I could also take apart the pivots and grease the hell out of them. I am trying really hard to avoid disassembly of the flap jack screw and motor assemblies, but that's in the mix too if I have to.
  19. On the 4th I went to St. Simons Island (KSSI) on the Georgia Coast for lunch with my buddy. I flew the CT of course, he flew his Waiex (Y-tailed Sonex), N111KX. We had a great time, weather was fantastic but hot (90°F+) and a little bumpy on the way home. Below is the landing video at KSSI, with a couple points: 1) We flew a really big pattern and a long final, so we could get a look at the big object you'll see in the water. It's a giant ship that got it's CG too high and rolled over on its side, dumping 4000 new cars into the water! The thing is massive, probably a billion dollar headache for some insurance adjuster... 2) My approach is a little different from my norm. I left the flaps at 15° and came in at fairly low speed and with power. You'll hear the reason why on the radio; a Citation jet departed right before my landing, and I wanted to precisely control my sink & touchdown and exactly hit the numbers to avoid his wake turbulence. It worked out as planned. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBmYZojJp_w&
  20. Now you just need to buy a new CT! It made me very sad when you sold yours.
  21. Hmm...I'm skeptical of this explanation. I have a hard time believing you'd hear any noise from that inlet duct, being under the cowl and right next to all the engine/prop noise. That said, those rubber pieces are looking pretty beat up and it's probably time for replacements. I think you can just get some suitable pieces of rubber, drill out the attach rivets, and rivet the new pieces into the same holes. Or drill new holes if the old ones get too wallowed out in the process.
  22. If you can't find the bowlus tape, Spruce has this: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/3mvinyltape.php?clickkey=29747 It's very similar but somewhat thicker IIRC. I have used it on the stab/tab line before. They also have this, which I have not used but looks potentially suitable, but super pricey at $48 for six yards (because Teflon!) : https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/teflonantichafetape.php?clickkey=29747
  23. Mine has a little play in it, but it's up/down and almost none fore/aft. Roger, what's the trick to get the trim tab rod ends off so you can remove the stab? I did it before and know there's a trick to it, but can't remember it. It's probably time to check my bearing torque.
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