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Safety Officer

More things done wrong

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Hi Tad,

 

How would the next mechanic for an inspection know that since they are covered? My last two planes had lots of illegal clamps from a hose change and I had to replace almost all of them, not to mention a 20+ gal fuel leak into the fuselage from inside the panel because of wrong clamps. Blind faith hasn't been working so well lately.

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Tad, thanks for the advice on using clamps. I have been putting off getting a band clamp tensioner tool but it is time to get this and add to my supply of band clamps so I will always have some of the various sizes on hand. Next annual, I'll bring these with me in case my mechanic doesn't have the right ones in his supply. There is one hose connection that will not get a band clamp and this is the fuel supply line from the wing in the wing root. I had to grind the band clamp off with my dremmel thru the access hole that was drilled using a mirror during the 5 year rubber replacement. No way to re-install a band clamp here and I wouldn't do it if there was. My mechanic and I don't want to do this again so a factory screw clamp went back on this.

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Hi Dick,

 

Here is the best solution for the 6" piece of hose from the wing bulkhead fitting to the "A" post tube. First you need to drill a hole about 3/4" big about 3 to 3.5 inches back from the edge of the fuel bulkhead port in the fuselage. Don't use this figure to be exact, but stick your finger or measuring devise in and just make sure you are drilling the hole on the clamp. Once the hole is drilled (I use my Dremel with a sanding drum) you have access to pry off the old hose and clamp. It may even need a little grinding to break the clamp if you can't pry the old clamp off.

Now cut a new piece of hose and here's the trick, use a fuel injection hose band clamp, but take out the slotted screwdriver head screw and replace it with an allen wrench head screw. Now you can use a 6" tee handle allen wrench and have a very easy access and an easy time tightening a proper hose clamp. To cover the hole use a piece of the white Bolus tape like you use on the wing root gap.

 

 

 

Work smart, not hard! biggrin.gif

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Hi Roger. I am not sure that you know I've already done the 5 year and have replaced the clamp using the procedure you describe - i.e., by drilling the hole in the fuselage and grinding off the clamp. I actually did put in a different bolt into the clamp as you recommended.

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Hi Tad,

 

How would the next mechanic for an inspection know that since they are covered? My last two planes had lots of illegal clamps from a hose change and I had to replace almost all of them, not to mention a 20+ gal fuel leak into the fuselage from inside the panel because of wrong clamps. Blind faith hasn't been working so well lately.

 

Well lets see....

The log book is full of usefull info and should have the name, date, cert, hobbs and disciption in it.

Ray Charles could see that a worm drive clamp is not under the heat shrink.

If a clamp comes loose it would be bleeding fluid.

The overall performance of the aircraft will give tell tale signs of a qualified mechanic.

Mechanic experience is a clue.

Rotax Heavy MX every two years is usefull knowledge.

Factory trained mechanics is helpful.

Mechanics who follow the MM and parts catelog don't use "garden variety" hardware.

 

Make sure when you state things done wrong on a plane, "out of Florida", you expect some comments back. There are plenty of shops performing MX and some people might take it as disparaging comments. Even though I know you weren't talking about me, some people might not know that. Not healthy comments no matter who it was doing the poor MX.

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