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NC Bill

GoPro2 HD Camera & In-flite videos

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I bought a GoPro2 HD camera and suction cup mount this week.

 

Anybody find the GoPro suction cup mount satisfactory for filming outside the cockpit?

 

Appreciate if someone could also tell me what resolution is best for videos taken from outside on the vertical stab. I tried it yesterday at 1080p. I learned you are advised to place the camera high and forward on the tail to avoid filming the tail itself. :blush: Also my video was a bit shaky. Not sure if it's just the nature of the mount or I didn't screw it down well enough.

 

Tomorrow I'd like to try inside the cockpit. Where should I attach the camera on the CTLS and what resolution works best?

 

Any other tips?

 

This is fun stuff :D

 

TIA!

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His YouTube videos are what encouraged me to get involved Eddie. :)

 

Unfortunately for him he flys a Sting :lol: and recommends RAM mounts.

 

I'm wondering if anyone here has had good experience with the GoPro suction mount.

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I have the exact same cam and mounted it under my wing and flew from kentucky to the bahamas and back through rain etc. I think the mount is "still under there" videos were excellent!

Great video camera and mount!

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I failed to get interior shots with the GoPro HD camera..

 

Seems the interior surfaces on my CTLS are rough, grainy, call it sand-papery.

 

Don't know if that's true of the SWs or other LSs but it is on mine. And neither a RAM nor GoPro suction mount sticks. At least not on the back wall or on the ceiling. I affix the mounts and they promptly fall down in 1 to 5 seconds. I'm guessing the grainy surface doesn't permit the suction cup to adhere sufficiently.

 

BTW the GoPro works fine affixed to the tail and under the wing. I've test flown in both locations.

 

Quetions:

 

1- Is my plane's interior finish unique?

 

2- If not, how have others solved the problem?

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Hi, For internal suction mounts try this. Cut out a circle of plexiglass and epoxy to mushroom, rear wall or whatever.

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Good idea Mick,

 

Bill, check the mount out near the bottom of post #5... Made it because if the texture problem. The mount can be removed, with only the Velcro-like stuff remaining... And even the stickem stuff comes out with the pull of one tab.

Tim

Ps. Every CT I've seen has that same, rough, spattered finish. I think it's zolatone. That's what I used to paint the mount bracket.

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Good idea Mick,

 

Bill, check the mount out near the bottom of post #5... Made it because if the texture problem. The mount can be removed, with only the Velcro-like stuff remaining... And even the stickem stuff comes out with the pull of one tab.

Tim

Ps. Every CT I've seen has that same, rough, spattered finish. I think it's zolatone. That's what I used to paint the mount bracket.

 

Would there be anything in the 3M Command strips line that might work? Stick it to the surface, and then pull the tab to remove.

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Would there be anything in the 3M Command strips line that might work? Stick it to the surface, and then pull the tab to remove.

Hi Tom,

That's just what I was talking about... 'couldn't remember the name, but knew it has a tab. I used the ones meant for pictures. They are a bit more heavy-duty, and kinda "snap" in place.

I've also used those to put a post-it holder, pen, and map-holders, on the cross-member above your head.

Tim

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I bought a piece of plexi glass (1/4" thick because suction cup mounts quickly warp anything smaller). I used the 3M double stick tape that is heavier duty and used that to fasten the gray plexi cut to 4x6" to the back wall of my plane (on the CTSW) and to the column on my new CTLS. I then use the suction cup mount to put the camera on. You can see it in the pic attached between the seats up high. I found that with a smaller piece (say 4" x 4") that the suction cup mount put too much stress on the plexi and would cause it to pull the plexi off the plane. On 1/8" plexi it would warp the plastic. So 4"x6", 1/4" thick was used and it has never come off due to the suction applied by the mount.

 

One thing to note... I have both a GoPro and an NFlight Cam Plus. For interior looking out through the front windshield the NFlight Cam Plus works much better. This is because the "Plus" version removes the ugly prop hash and gives a clear view. My GoPro records the prop hash and I then have to explain to people who watch and are not pilots that when you are in the plane you don't see the prop. I intend to use my Go Pro for exterior shots not taken through the prop! The NFlight Cam also has a built in cable to record cockpit audio thus adding that feature as well. (Yes its more expensive).

 

Here is a video example shot from the CTLS looking out of the cockpit (no prop hash). This was not shot in full 1080HD, I shot it in 720P

 

 

Here is an example shot that has prop hash

 

 

Prop hash bugs me...

post-124-0-87279300-1346596356_thumb.jpg

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The sheepskin seat covers are made to fit a Mercedes Benz. They are a Mercedes Benz sold accessory and cost 200.00 for a set on ebay. I use a 3M velcro strap to gather them at the top of the seats and then use the built in little elastic strap to hold them in the middle. For the bottom I just roll them over the front of the seat and tuck the extra underneath.

 

I also temporarily removed the bottom of my leather seat covers and added 1" of memory foam. It's a tight fit to get the covers back on but between the memory foam and the sheepskin my seats are pretty comfy for longer flights!

 

An example of an ebay listing

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MBZ-Factory-Sheepskin-Seat-Covers-Inserts-E-S-Class-Tan-Gray-color-/260947014671?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc1a7740f

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I've found that a 10% neutral density filter from stuntcams ($13 web or ebay) seems to have eliminated most of my prop problems with the GoPro Hero2. Depending on the lighting (cloudy,bright, into sun, etc), it will eliminate the prop almost totally. At worst, you'll see a blur, but never those crazy-shaped props, or the backwards spinning prop.

Tim

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I don't think polarization does anything special with digital. I've read that the filter works by simply limiting the light a bit, therefore causing the shutter to shoot a little slower, so it doesn't freeze the prop. If these action cams were more sophisticated, you could adjust shutter speed. Polarization does seem to help most aviation shots, with more dramatic sky/cloud effects.

Tim

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Hmm...hadn't thought about that before. Do digitals have shutters? And, unless they are SLR don't they measure the light outside the lens?

Doug

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