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Bobby CAU

Oil Change Tricks in Rotax

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  1. Nice vid, but I would think now that when refilling the tank, you would need to do the oil system purge. Having the oil supply line hanging and drained will make air entry unavoidable.

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Hi Bobby,

 

This isn't a good way to do an oil change or clean the tank. Once you dumped the oil in those lines you absolutely need to do an oil purge every time you do this or you will damage you engine and it will be very expensive. It will bend rods and cook lifters. Once too much air enters the system the flat tappet HYDRAULIC lifters can not pump air and need to be full of oil in their area.

Drain the oil by rotating the prop, then remove the oil tank drain plug and let the oil drain. Absolutely do not rotate the prop while the tank is empty or you will be doing another oil purge. Replace the oil plug, change the filter and check the magnetic plug. Install your 3 qts. of oil and then and only then rotate the prop to help charge the oil filter for the first start.

There is a way to remove the tank without an oil purge, but you need to be careful and not lose any oil out of the oil lines especially the oil outlet line to the engine. You can remove the line off the tank and before any oil comes out plug it so it stays full. Do it to the outlet line too. These lines must stay full of oil. If your not sure how to protect the oil system from air introduction then it should not be done.

 

If who ever did this video did an oil purge after the procedure in the video then he would be okay, but what a lot of extra work to have t go through. If he didn't do an oil purge then he really screwed up and desperately needs a Rotax class or needed to at least read a manual. If that engine hasn't been flown yet or only has less than 30 minutes on a test run then do the oil purge. If it is flying already and hasn't bent or cooked any thing then count yourself very lucky. You may not know for a while whether you damaged something.

 

My advise is don't let this guy work on your Rotax if he doesn't at least know the very basics of an oil change.

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dear Roger and CTFliers friends,

THANKS for the big feed back about this, thats the learning curve where needs me to re confirm again what i had.

 

he is doing this way to many aircraft.

he is owner of flying school in australia as well chief of maintenance for LSA.

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I wouldn't let him touch my plane unless he could demonstrate better compendency. If your a Rotax mechanic or any engine mechanic you should have the maint. Manuals and actually spent some time reading them before you service customers so you don't make simple everyday mistakes and at least know where to find info on more complicated maint. Educate before the fact not after it.

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thanks Roger,

you are right ... he is not touch my plane either.

 

im still awaiting you to have holiday in Jakarta and the same time to gives us some education here.

pilots are waiting for you Roger Lee

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Yes, that is why I added the extra question mark. He does claim it is magnetic in the video and based on that claimed it is ok.

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There is a way to remove the tank without an oil purge, but you need to be careful and not lose any oil out of the oil lines especially the oil outlet line to the engine. You can remove the line off the tank and before any oil comes out plug it so it stays full. Do it to the outlet line too. These lines must stay full of oil. If your not sure how to protect the oil system from air introduction then it should not be done.

 

 

 

If you loosen the tank top and lower the tank away from the top and oil tubes (assuming you have the clearance to do so) while maintaining the elevation of the tank top relative to the engine, you should be able to clean and reinstall the tank and not have to do a purge. The oil hydraulics of what I just described is the same as draining the oil from the tank which does not require a purge. Make sense?

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I just unscrew the two fittings and stick a rubber cork in them. No loss of oil and no oil purge. I use the same rubber corks during the hose change to keep oil from getting all over.

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As long as we are on the subject - was there an LOA or an ok from Rotax for using a valve to replace he plug on the oil tank? I thoight I remembered seeing one, but I can't find it. CPS sells the valves (petcock?) but says they are for experimental only. The big advantage isn't the valve, but the ability to fit a hose to the valve.

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There is no LOA. Some people have just done it. I personally don't care for them because it makes the oil drain so slow. I just removed one because it was leaking from a bad seal inside. Seems like it takes forever. Our tank is so easy to get to compared to some in the industry that have zero access unless you pull the tank.

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Thanks Roger, I don't know if the slowness would bother me, but I want to be legal. Do you know if anyone has sought an LOA?

Also, do you know what size rubber stoppers you use. I'd like to pick up a couple at my local Air-Ace Hardware. :)

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Thanks Roger, I don't know if the slowness would bother me, but I want to be legal. Do you know if anyone has sought an LOA?

Also, do you know what size rubber stoppers you use. I'd like to pick up a couple at my local Air-Ace Hardware. :)

 

Doug, I tried a while back with no luck. Flight Design checked with Rotax, and they said no go.

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