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Need a new door seal 2007 CTSW

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I ordered one from FD USA a couple of days ago. They didn't say if it was in stock; I assumed it was. I got the impression it was on a roll and they cut off a chunk.

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Just changed one side last weekend. The new design still tears.

 

Argh! Don't tell me that! Why didn't I check McMaster Carr first? I found the reference on Vansairforce and it costs $1.57/ft. Part number 1120A411. The discussion also mentions other options some like.

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We haven't had any issues with the new style door trim in AZ that I have heard off and I have had it for years since it first came out. It's a solid piece where the old was two pieces glued together.

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The door seals and elevator trim tab seals get replaced almost yearly on my plane. They both tear. I think the door seals tear from getting in and out and sliding across the seal. I am tall and can get over the seal, so the passenger side mainly tears. I am trying to figure out the elevator trim tab seals. I have one side doubled up to see if that helps. Oh, and since we are on seals, my Telex 50 headset ear seals need replacing almost as often. My closet looks like an aisle at Sporty's.

 

Clarification: The elevator trim seal tape tears, not the plastic strip. It tears right where the tape covers the edge of the plastic strip.

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Use the white Bolus maxi 1" wide tape on top and bottom of the trim tab gaps. Put the stab in the full down position for the top tape application and full up position for the bottom tape. Over lap the center lower rivet about 1/2 way as a guide across the entire gap of the stab. Then take a razor blade and remove that small bit left on that single rivet. The whole job should take about 15-20 minutes. This way the tape does not get stretched and broken over time. Mine usually last 2 years and others I do about the same. Lay the tape down and don't stretch it. same with the wing root tape. lay it down and don't stretch it. Over lap a second piece of tape on the leading edge about 10" so the front gap is doubled. this will keep the wind from splitting it. This should last 2 years too.

 

 

I haven't seen any of the new style door trim tearing because it is a solid one piece mold. The old stuff was two pieces glued together and it did come apart from sliding over it. Mine has been on for years and so has the others at my field. Somethings wrong if this new stuff is tearing.

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Put the new door seals on today, could not close either door, even pushing on outside of door did not help. Nothing to do but work on the holes until it closes I guess anyone else had this problem??

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That can be a normal problem with some, but not all CT's. You can elongate the holes just a tad to make the door pins slide in easier. The goal here is to not have to force the door handle when trying to lock it. I usually apply a little silicone paste to these holes or the pins so they slide and don't bind. If you break a door pin back where it has it's cotter key you will find out why you never want to go there. What a major PITA.

The molding will break in ans soften with a little time, but not all the way. I have not tried this, but maybe you could heat it with a heat gun nice and hot then push the door closed and latch it over night and see if it will take a little lower set point?

 

There is one other way and for me it was the best way. I pulled my door hinges off from the door jam, leave them attached to the door. Filled the screw holes with JB Weld. This area is reinforced by metal along this top edge so new holes aren't an issue. I then re-drilled the hole slightly out and slightly forward and tapped them. The new holes almost touched the old hole. The difference was dramatic. Not only do my doors fit front to back better, they seal better and they are the smoothest locking doors on any CT I have been around. Most CT have a huge air leak at the front of the door edge. that went away. That said I also have soft grey foam window seal around the entire inside of the door seal. My doors are absolutely air time for winter flying.

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You are right about moving the top hinges that would help I was going to do that but could not get all the screws out so greased the holes after I worked

on them it works well now. You can tell the doors are in to far at the top because it touches the seal way before the door closes at the bottom thanks.

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This is one of the things that is very confusing on this site. My understanding is that you need an LOA to do things like that Roger, unless you are E-LSA. Am I wrong? If so, what do I need an LOA for and what do I not need it for? Or is it simply a personal decision based on the likelihood of being asked by someone about it?

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Hi Doug,

 

I didn't change or alter its function or add any new parts. I just moved the screw holes. You don't need an LOA for that and when I originally talked to FD about it they said no problemo.

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To pick knits, you corrected the screw hole locations so no problem. If the screw holes were originally located in board by design and you altered that then you have a reason to seek an LOA. You have to assume that the locations are meant to be located to achieve a good seal.

 

In your home you drywall should be sealed to the walls plates, in most cases this has not been done and in some locations the gap is enlarged to allow earth quake tie downs ( fasteners ) to be installed. Here we have a bad seal or a big gap by design to accommodate another safety design consideration.

 

If the door's bad fit is a compromise you would want to know what it is.

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OK, so we can alter fit as long as we don't change function? (and CT construction must be different here, drywall is fastened to the studs... not sure what wall plates are. We also don't do anything in terms of earthquakes.) :)

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CTLSi, are you saying that it is ok to replace designated hardware with something different without an FD OK? I asked about an oil quick drain and was told they are not approved by Rotax or FD and if you take your plane to FD service, they will remove it. (At least in Conneticut.) Replacing parts with something different is not legitimate unless you are E-LSA, or with FD approval, or there is no part designated by FD/Rotax. You will put your mechanic in a difficult spot, or you will have to try intimidate them into leaving them there. What are you accessing there as an owner anyway? You just don't get it - you cannot do whatever you want, there are rules and regulations, and they exist for a reason.

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I suggest not cutting the glider tape with a razor blade after you lay it down. A guy did that on mine at a shop and there is a nice permanent reminder of his work in the paint. I cut the tape with a pair of scissors when I get out to the end of the run and can see how much is needed. WF

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I need to replace the door seal on my 2006 CTSW. I remember seeing this topic a while back. It appears that I have the two part rubber seal that tears apart with time and wear. Does anyone know of a one piece seal. If so, please provide the supplier and part number.  I was given McMaster-Carr 1120A411 by FDUSA but that appears to be the two part seal. Thanks!

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The two piece seal I think was a piece of trimloc to which Flight Design glued a seal. I don't think you will find anything better than that from McMaster-Carr. I've replaced several pieces on CTSW's, with the seal from McMaster-Carr, and never had to replace them a second time.

For what it's worth my CTLS is 9 years old and still has the original seals, and they are still in good shape at almost 700 hours.

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