Jim Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Kurt, please let us know if there's an improvement in electrical noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Kurt took care of most of his noise by installing a 100K capacitor. The 22K capacitor is only the minimum that Rotax recommends larger ones can help noise. I don't know if FD would or wouldn't approve this. The new IS engine has two 33K capacitors (one for each lane or independent system). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 One thing that I don't like is how the Ducati regulator is installed in CTLSs. There's a reason they come with heat sinks, and it being installed in the top of the cowling in the rear means it gets minimal airflow. Has anyone thought about routing a duct to it and blowing air directly over it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 It would have been better on the side of the fire wall or even inside the instrument panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Roger, I should have considered those issues you bring up due to my former life being in the automotive industry. The first thing my company would look for on a warranty claim would be if there was any "modification" done to a vehicle. Didn't matter if the mod was connected to the failed part or system, it just provided leverage to waive the warranty. Thanks for the dose of reality. Â Anticept, creating airflow is a good idea. Might be difficult though getting air to the regulator in it's current location? Â A tip: My regulator connector was coming loose and the spade fittings were not locking and some would become disconnected, as Roger pointed out. Two things were done. The locking tabs on the spade connectors were gently pried up to provide good engagement and prevent pull-out. Also, two small nylon tie wraps were put thru each end of the connector and run thru the receiving part of the connector on the regulator. This very positively keeps the connector body from loosening. I'll try to get a picture of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Honestly, I can't say about routing. I need to know how the airflow works in the nose first, or a seemingly good intent might make it worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Why not affix with some wire ties so as to be removable, a small pc cooling fan. Â I have some t/c cable in the mail so i can measure temperature at various places in the engine compartment. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Hi Dick, Â FD would never approve this even if it was better because it would go against Rotax and they would never want to take on the liability of that and it's still be experimental. It would take thousands of hours worth of actual running test to prove its worth and reliability. Even though it tested okay on a bench doesn't put Kurt out of the woods yet for the short or long term use. I always worry somewhat about the reliability of products made by cottage industries.. However, while I can't speak for FD, I think they might approve it 1) SH aren't that small and have been in operation for over a decade. 2) They claim to be OEM for several aircraft already (don't say whom). Remos manages to use an alternate RR and one from an even smaller outfit than SH 3) The RR is not a critical component for flight and not even necessary for engine operation. And you can run your panel fine for about an hour even if it fails completely. 4) The Ducati has a well proven track record, a record that proves it to be not very reliable. So FD might as well approve one that is likely to be better. Â For noise, I don't expect much change. This RR is still sending or blocking charge pulses from the stator coils, it just conducts them with less loss than the Ducati and regulates better. I did kill most of my noise with the big KEMET 100uF cap. That one is already an approved part based on the very generic specification from Rotax to whom FD defers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted December 16, 2013 Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 I wonder if we could get someone to apply for an LOA for a setup like this to keep the temp down on the regulator? Seems like Vans understands this is a weak point and needs attention. Not saying that they know it all, however I have not read of any -12's having a regulator issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mocfly Posted December 23, 2013 Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Here is another regulator manufacturer that I came across http://www.powermate.com.au/index.htm  Hey Kurt, How is that Silent Hectick unit performing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flitzer Posted February 26, 2016 Report Share Posted February 26, 2016 Hi Kurt. I found your regualor rectifier thread in the archive fascinating. I'm running a Ul 260i engine, which uses a ducati energia reguator which I suspect has failed. You mentioned a way to improve its performance 'in a previous thread' , which I can't find. Could you advise please. Also hows the silent hektic one going. What do I need to consider if I want to use one? Many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted February 26, 2016 Report Share Posted February 26, 2016 He used a diode across 2 pins to increase charge voltage to 14.2ish. Search his posts for diode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted February 26, 2016 Report Share Posted February 26, 2016 It helps about .5 Volt. The Dynon usually reads a .5 volt low so make sure you take a few test before just throwing something in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitten192 Posted February 26, 2016 Report Share Posted February 26, 2016 All 4 components must bolt to the case or they would fry at 20Amps, but two of them need to be isolated (with thin mica sheets usually) The Schicke unit http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/Standard%20Mods/SM12970%20Rotax%2091X%20Schicke%20GR6%20Regulator.pdf is standard equipment on Remos so that one is worth evaluating. Like I said, if someone wants to get it I'll measure it up. Admittedly, noone has done statistical sampling but even here, the number of people mentioning RR failures is quite high. In the motorcycle world, failures are very common because people tend to mount these low and behind the engine, right next to where the exhaust come out and sweeps back. So they are exposed to enormous radiative heating and often fail in 10's of hours. The point is that Semiconductor thermal failures are not like stalls, they are not abrupt so below some temperature you are fine. Well done COOL electronics can easily have an MTBF of over 100,000hrs. Think of how long an alarm clock lasts. If the Ducati were even 10,000hrs MTBF you would almost never hear of a failure. I replaced my Ducati with a Schicke. Works great. The problem is they are not easily available in the US. I got mine from the REMOS dealer. They are pricy ~ $200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flitzer Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Thanks for the help there. I'll have a look for a Schicke. I'm in the UK so maybe easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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