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I am looking into increasing the cabin heat air flow. I just got back from KIDI to KOSU in -3F, dressed in a coat, two long sleeves, two layers of pants, and double socks. It's going to take me all night to coax tweedle dee and tweedle dum to drop back out from my abdomen...

 

There is hot air flowing through the vents, but it's such a slow trickle.

 

I checked the manifold intake and fixed the alignment, but it had changed very little.

 

Suggestions for where to get started so i can prep an LOA request?

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Is the flap valve controlled by the cabin heat knob on the panel opening fully? When I took delivery of my plane, it was not opening fully. I was cold!

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Both CTs are terrible with the cabin heat. I thought about checking the box, but because of where the box is located, I would ask about it first.

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Have you sealed off all the overhead holes including spar bolts? Put additional seal strips around the doors? Blocked off the pass thru to baggage?

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Have you sealed off all the overhead holes including spar bolts? Put additional seal strips around the doors? Blocked off the pass thru to baggage?

 

Yes. The airflow from the cabin heat is abysmal, and I thought it was normal because both CTs have this problem. Will investigate and correct!

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1)Tape off the opening in the baggage compartment under the BRS. It allows a ton of cold air thru the tunnel.

2)Reducing the amount of air going to the defroster will create more heat than you could possibly need.

3)Make sure that the muffler surround has a divider. Ours did not.

 

These and having the heater valve opening all the way will allow you to fly in 0deg weather with a t-shirt.

 

Let us know how you make out

 

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Hi Anticept,

 

I can fly down at those low temps in short-sleeves and still have to push the heat bottom in some.

It's all about sealing up the cabin from cold air intrusion and making sure the heat door opens fully and the air intake for the heat is aligned.

All the over head holes need to be taped including the fuel site gauge (clear tape). In those constant low temps buy a large piece of 2" foam and cut it and wedge it into the passage holes behind the seat. That will stop fuselage cold air. Tape the wing spare pin holes above your head front and back of the spare box. The buy some soft grey foam from Ace Aviation that has a self adhesive back. It is about 3/8" wide by 1/2" tall. This will seal a major air leak in most CT doors. Apply it all the way around the door trim so it looks like a double trim has been applied around the door frame. Then as you found out make sure your cabin heat trap door is opening fully and the air scoop opening out front is lined up with the fuselage opening.

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1)Tape off the opening in the baggage compartment under the BRS. It allows a ton of cold air thru the tunnel.

2)Reducing the amount of air going to the defroster will create more heat than you could possibly need.

3)Make sure that the muffler surround has a divider. Ours did not.

 

These and having the heater valve opening all the way will allow you to fly in 0deg weather with a t-shirt.

 

Let us know how you make out

 

The baggage compartment and the tail cone both have tarps that do a pretty good job of sealing off air.

 

Shunting from the defroster probably won't be necessary. The butterfly valve is BARELY opening.

 

What is a muffler divider?

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Be sure to tape around the headliner with clear packing tape. The flap rod holes let in a lot of cold air. Next time your at KIDI, let me know.

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The baggage compartment and the tail cone both have tarps that do a pretty good job of sealing off air.

 

Shunting from the defroster probably won't be necessary. The butterfly valve is BARELY opening.

 

What is a muffler divider?

 

The divider should be attached to the interior of muffler surround. In simplest terms it is a baffle.

 

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The divider should be attached to the interior of muffler surround. In simplest terms it is a baffle.

 

That's what I figured. It's too cold to go looking at these things right now.

 

Be sure to tape around the headliner with clear packing tape. The flap rod holes let in a lot of cold air. Next time your at KIDI, let me know.

 

Already do this. I had very little airflow going through the plane, but the heater flow is so abysmal that I might as well not even have had it on.

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It is not visible without dis-assembly.

I can tell you that if your heat is working correctly and you don't have diffusers the heat output will burn your ankles.

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. . . "I can tell you that if your heat is working correctly and you don't have diffusers the heat output will burn your ankles." . . .

 

How are the diffusers attached?

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The diffusers are just caps on the ends of the tube that exit down by your feet. Instead of a straight open hole there it has a metal cap with holes on the sides to aim the air up towards the pilot and passenger instead of burning your toes. The caps are help together by a screw that goes all the way through the console from metal cap to metal cap. If the mechanic has idea about the CT you can tell if the heat door opens and closes all the way from inside the instrument panel with the cable and a decent ear.

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I could see the butterfly valve lever BARELY moving when pulling the knob. There's a bunch of extra loose cable. Going to tighten that up.

 

I need to get some of those crimp on thingymabobs (what the heck are those things called? they look like crimp on fishing weights) and the tool first though.

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Hi Anticept.

Those are called cable stops, but don't use the crimp on kind because then once crimped your done with that cable. Buy the type that has a set screw. Then in the future if the cable needs adjustment or needs to be removed you can. I would also not pass the cable through the rod hole and attach the cable stop. First put the cable stop up to the hole in the rod and put the cable stop on. Then take a cotter pin and slide that completely down over the cable just behind the stop. Now put the cotter pin down through the hole and just slightly bend one of the cotter pin arms so it can come out. No need to get carried away bending the cotter pin. It can not and will not come out. Doing this this way will allow easy access and or removal any time in the future with no muss or fuss. I had a little picture from the old days back in early 2007 and FD was good with it. makes life easier behind the panel.

 

Found a picture and don't laugh I still draw stick people. I flunked first grade drawing in school and never recovered from the set back. :lol:

post-3-0-68760700-1388931926_thumb.png

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I had not considered that I might be able to adjust it from the knob side! That would make it a hell of a lot easier!

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Adjusting from the instrument panel side is the only way to go unless you have the engine out of the way. I check all these during hose change.

 

Use a wire stop like these.

 

http://www.walmart.com/ip/26962673?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222227418411297&veh=sem&ci_src=328768002&ci_sku=26962673

 

http://www.gokartsup...com/thcable.htm

 

http://www.cps-parts...rch.php?s=a2360

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I needed cable stops for the carb heat control cable and bought them at a lawn mower repair shop.

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Gee! I wonder why it didn't work?

 

The left cable is cabin heat. EDIT: posted from an iPad. The left side is supposed to be the up side.

post-1078-0-39826800-1389130266_thumb.jpg

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