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Wing Inspections


procharger

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Hi Procharger,

 

 I haven't found an issue unless I already knew it was there. i.e. change out clouded fuel sight tube or a leak in a fuel fitting on that metal bulkhead. Takes me about 1.5 hrs. to do that inspection and put new sight tubes on. I have tried to get FD to go to 3 years, but Germany won't budge.

It isn't a hard inspection to do, just takes the time.

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I place a strip of duct tape across the hinge gap for the ailerons and 2 on the flaps. This makes removing the bolt from the bell crank easier, and keeps them from flopping down when the wing is slid out. Make sure you have everything ready before you start, and it is nice to have a couple helpers for 5-10 minutes when the wings are coming off and going back on. Feel free to give me a call and I will walk you through my procedure. You can find my contact info here, http://www.olneynobleairport.com/

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I've had mixed results when it comes to getting a nice radius for the sight tubes when these are changed out.  Some years I get a nice radius and other times I get a slightly kinked hose.  Is there a good  I.D / O.D and length for the tubes that gives a good outcome - i.e., "no kinks"?  I usually use bulk Tygon clear hose.

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I've had mixed results when it comes to getting a nice radius for the sight tubes when these are changed out.  Some years I get a nice radius and other times I get a slightly kinked hose.  Is there a good  I.D / O.D and length for the tubes that gives a good outcome - i.e., "no kinks"?  I usually use bulk Tygon clear hose.

 

I use the clear Tygothane (sp) from FDUSA. I have found length to be the critical factor. To long and it will kink in the middle, and to short you have problems near the nipples. I will see if I have a piece that I can measure. I have also found it difficult to get a good measure of the old site tube, so I slide it over a large Philips screwdriver to straighten it out. I make a mark base on the old site tube, then slide the new over the screwdriver and mark it. If you do get a kink you can try shortening the tube 1/8" to 1/4" at a time, but be carful to not go to far. Also I like to slide it on the nipple without the clamp and mark where the end of the nipple is to make sure the tube slides on far enough when you install it with the clamp.

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If you get a tiny flat spot it will not affect the fuel level indication. The tube only needs to remain open. It is just a static level indicator. The level indication would only be affected if it completely kinked. I usually just use the old tube up against the new tubing to be cut for length. After talking to 5 tubing MFG's I don't use any special tubing. I certainly have never used that yellow Tygon tubing. It makes the level too hard to see in short order.

I just put the the fully loosened clamp on the hose, give the fitting a tad of mouth lube and push the hose all the way on and then slide the clamp on over the fitting. It's easy and I have never had any issues. 

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Hi Tom,

My comment about yellow tubing comes from a few years back.

FD used to use the yellow tubing. They did switch to the clear because of complaints.

 

All the tubing MFG's I talked to 5 years ago including the people who Mfg the Tygon all said the tubing is porous and will over time adsorb the brownish dye in auto fuel. With their comments and the fact that we change the tubing every two years I never saw any reason to buy more expensive tubing. I have just stayed with the standard clear polyvinyl tubing that FD used earlier on. It's good for the two years without any issues. At one time Lone Mnt. in Las Vegas used to charge $33 per yellow tube verses my $2 per clear tube. I didn't see a cost benefit or gain over the Tygon versus clear polyvinyl. Most people I know have stuck with the clear polyvinyl.

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Roger, since 2007 since I became involved with Flight Design I have never gotten any yellow tygon from them. Lockwood did sell the Yellow for a while. The last I bought from FDUSA was about $13. I know this is more than you pay at the hardware store, but it is still better IMO. I know they will all discolor, but I have had the vinyl tear and break when removing it after 2 years. It is this degradation that gives me concern.

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Hi Tom,

 

You ought to see all the pressure I put on these when I pull them off. Some tubes are a little stiff after I get them off, but they are still flexible.

I pull awful hard on these when I remove them and have never seen one damaged. They can still be bent and flexed without any issue.

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Hi Tom,

 

You ought to see all the pressure I put on these when I pull them off. Some tubes are a little stiff after I get them off, but they are still flexible.

I pull awful hard on these when I remove them and have never seen one damaged. They can still be bent and flexed without any issue.

 

It only took one to tear and crumble on me before I decided I didn't like them.

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Can those of you, who are more experienced, comment on replacing sight tubes without pulling the wings?

 

I have never tried to do it without pulling the wings, and don't plan on it. I want to be able to clearly see that everything went back together like it should. IMO with the wings installed you can't do this.

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Can those of you, who are more experienced, comment on replacing sight tubes without pulling the wings?

I can replace mine without removing the wings in about 3 hours provided I lubricate the session with ample quantities of really nasty words.

 

It helps to have some mini 90 degree ratcheting tools. One I like best has a "drive" you can attach a power drill to. I usually attach a small socket wrench to drive it. This allows me to turn the clamp screws easily - most of the time.

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Extremely hard without pulling the wings if not darn near impossible on some. 

Pulling the wings verses just the tubes will save a lot of cuss words and high blood pressure medication.

 

It should always be done at the wing inspection.

 

I recently had the wings off a CT out of schedule with the two year cycle for the wing inspection. I went ahead and replaced the site tubes and did the inspection to reset the clock.

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I can replace mine without removing the wings in about 3 hours provided I lubricate the session with ample quantities of really nasty words.

 

It helps to have some mini 90 degree ratcheting tools. One I like best has a "drive" you can attach a power drill to. I usually attach a small socket wrench to drive it. This allows me to turn the clamp screws easily - most of the time.

 

I can do it in less time and with less aggravation by pulling the wings, and I wont feel beat up like I would trying to work up in the holes where the site tubes are located.

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i have replaced mine several times never once did i have the wings off to do this........

i have used cheap tubing and expensive, after 2 years you cant see in either of them,never had a problem with either type.

i have always found when im seated i do my best work!

mack

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My problem is that my wing pins do not easily re-install.

 I have had a couple airplanes like that. One was simply just tight, the other a previous shop had run the wires on the left wing out the wrong hole pinching them between the wing and fuselage. I didn't catch it at first, but after I figured it out the wings went on easy.

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  • 1 year later...

The rubber fuel hose (from the tanks to the metal fuel tube that goes down the edge of cockpit)   How does this rubber hose get replaced.?  There is a clamp at the end of the rubber hose that attaches the hose to the metal fuel tube - but this is impossible to get hands on.

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