New panel insert

[Doug G.]

I need to redo my center panel because of my ADS-B install. I know someone earlier said they had used FASTBO wall board from IKEA. It doesn't seem like they sell it any longer. Anyone know of other sources?

Thanks.

[NC Bill]

Unsure if this idea is helpful, but when I redid my panels recently for ADSB I had 1/16" overlays cut to affix to the existing panels and in some cases just cover over existing holes. Those panels had wording then laser-cut into them as necessary. Here's a photo of the center panel. I don't know the name brand used but there were more then a dozen colors available. The panel coverings were made by a trophy shop.

 

If you're interested I can get details.

[Doug G.]

I am hoping to match the others. It will end up looking like yours, with the dock and the angle on the Airgizmo. If you think they may have an aluminum look to match the standard panel I would be very interested. I haven't talked to Arian yet about it. He may have a source.

[Tip]

Has anyone found a source for the original looking panel blanks?

[Runtoeat]

Hi Tip.  I seem to recall someone posting a source for the sheet used in our CT's?  Might have been FlyRatz?  Plus, see the email note I sent you.

Update:  Tip, I found it. 

http://ctflier.com/topic/3702-avionics-panel-blanks/?do=findComment&comment=53907

[Tip]

I can’t find it at IKEA in the US. Maybe in Europe?

[FlyRatz]

I found it at Amazon FASTBO at Amazon

[FlyingMonkey]

Can't read it very well, must be Amazon.kom.   

[BravoFoxtrot]

Translated it says: "Currently Unavailable".

[FlyRatz]

I found a comment at a kitchen builder forum saying:

Quote

Unfortunately, these panels have been already discontinued by IKEA and are no longer sold in the North-American market.

Link: https://inspiredkitchendesign.com/did-you-know-ikea-wall-panels-for-your-backsplash/

It is discontinued in Germany as well.

Sorry

[Anticept]

Just take some heavy fiberglass, west system epoxy, lay together 2-3 sheets at 30, 0, -30, (and one carbon fiber if you want that look) and cure. Cut out from template. Done! It's going to be a lot stronger than that phenolic board.

[FlyingMonkey]

On 12/6/2017 at 11:41 AM, Anticept said:

Just take some heavy fiberglass, west system epoxy, lay together 2-3 sheets at 30, 0, -30, (and one carbon fiber if you want that look) and cure. Ciut out from template. Done! It's going to be a lot stronger than that phenolic board.

Fiberglass is pretty heavy though.  I'd probably use a lexan sheet with whatever finishing sheet I wanted over the top -- carbon fiber look sheet, woodgrain, thin aluminum, whatever.  You could probably even use vinyl shelf paper and save more weight.  

[Tom Baker]

33 minutes ago, FlyingMonkey said:

Fiberglass is pretty heavy though.  I'd probably use a lexan sheet with whatever finishing sheet I wanted over the top -- carbon fiber look sheet, woodgrain, thin aluminum, whatever.  You could probably even use vinyl shelf paper and save more weight.  

If you are mounting something in it like a radio or GPS you need strength. With the Lexan if you use a material that is thick enough to have the needed strength it is not going to be any lighter. Besides if you are mounting something in it you will be cutting most of the weight away anyway. The original is kind of like a G10 material with a brushed aluminum laminate.

[WmInce]

1/8 " aluminum sheeting works very well. It is lightweight and has superior strength.

[FlyingMonkey]

17 minutes ago, WmInce said:

1/8 " aluminum sheeting works very well. It is lightweight and has superior strength.

1/8" is pretty thick though...harder to cut and shape than plastic.

[Anticept]

No, fiberglass is not heavy by comparison to the panel that is already installed. It's a little heavier than carbon by volume, but we're doing a tiny panel. If you want to do the significantly more expensive carbon fiber instead, go for it. But as Tom said, you need some structure for stiffness.

[Tom Baker]

Before I would lay something up myself I would order some G10 like this,  https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/63408009?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Raw+Materials+-+PLA_sNlrr2Z1T___164124449480_c_S&mkwid=sNlrr2Z1T|dc&pcrid=164124449480&rd=k&product_id=63408009&gclid=CjwKCAiAjanRBRByEiwAKGyjZfa4WD38oY8go-2OIZWo98IX2xvULOxGIBUfZiiyolNKtEiimOzzThoC-toQAvD_BwE

Then put a layer of this on the outside for cosmetics, https://www.amazon.com/3M-BR120-BRUSHED-ALUMINUM-Vinyl/dp/B005AN2460

[LS Bruce]

Or you could use real aluminum!

24" X 24" X .050 6061-t6 for $13. Trace it, cut it, drill it, buff it with steel wool.

or smaller parts, 12" X 12" X .063  2024-t3  $7 !

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/alumsheet_6061t6.php

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/alumsheet_2024t3.php

[Anticept]

If you do that, you also should bond to ground.

[WmInce]

10 hours ago, FlyingMonkey said:

1/8" is pretty thick though...harder to cut and shape than plastic.

Waterjet cuts through aluminum like butter and leaves a very fine finish.

[FlyingMonkey]

On 12/8/2017 at 10:48 PM, WmInce said:

Waterjet cuts through aluminum like butter and leaves a very fine finish.

But I don’t have a waterjet in my hangar!

[Anticept]

There's a device called a nibbler, that is absolutely fantastic for cutting aluminum. Though if you want to cut anything more than small areas, you need a pneumatic one.

 

https://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=ATS8300

 

Here's an example of the eastwood version (also reputable):

 

For cutting very large panels (aka nothing in an instrument panel) "air shears"/"air sheet metal shears" are a better recommendation.

[Runtoeat]

I made a panel last year out of 6061 .060" aluminum.  I cut this on my band saw with no issues and smoothed the edges with a flat file.  If you have a bench belt sander this would be best but I don't have one.  The big problem is cutting the holes for instruments.  Since I have mostly steam gages, I borrowed the local EAA club's hole puncher for the 2 1/4" and  3 1/8" holes. Be careful to not use too thick of material.  It takes a lot of force to punch holes!  After forming the panel, I cut a section of 80 grit band saw belt and stapled this to a piece of 16" long wood.  After anchoring the panel to my bench, I pulled the board with sandpaper in a straight direction across the panel a few times to get the surface to look like the original factory.  Lastly, I clear coated the panel.  It is hard to tell the new one on the left side from the old on the right side.  Here's another way to form the instrument holes:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/instrumentmounting.php