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912 ignition modules

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Thinking of possible options here......there is the company (in Europe?) that rebuilds the modules......could these reconditioned modules be used on experimental aircraft with Rotax 912?

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13 hours ago, Runtoeat said:

Thinking of possible options here......there is the company (in Europe?) that rebuilds the modules......could these reconditioned modules be used on experimental aircraft with Rotax 912?

Yes.  If I need new modules and can't find new ones at a reasonable price, I will explore that.

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I have 2008 CTLS (approx 650 hours) and this morning for the first time it would turn over fine but not fire. I believe it is the original. After reading all these posts sounds like bad ignition module. My question is if I heat it up with a hair dryer and it cranks will it stay running and be safe to fly to my A &P. I have a annual and a  5  year hose replacement due next month anyway. 

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Mine wouldn’t start one day. I cranked and cranked in all choke positions. She had gas and the fuel shut off was on and she has 25 gallons of gas. I figured it was a module. I was told to make sure my new Odyssey battery was good. It tested good. It’s always on a battery tender. Then I iced down the modules with a large bag of ice for 30 minutes. Then I tried to start it and it fired up immediately. That was last June and she starts every time now. 

Question? Is one module going out or is this just a fluke? My CTSW starts usually on the first 1/4 turn and hasn’t let me down since. Are the modules indexed to where they can fail in a certain position? 

My CTSW is running brilliantly with 790 hours on her!

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50 minutes ago, Buckaroo said:

Mine wouldn’t start one day. I cranked and cranked in all choke positions. She had gas and the fuel shut off was on and she has 25 gallons of gas. I figured it was a module. I was told to make sure my new Odyssey battery was good. It tested good. It’s always on a battery tender. Then I iced down the modules with a large bag of ice for 30 minutes. Then I tried to start it and it fired up immediately. That was last June and she starts every time now. 

Question? Is one module going out or is this just a fluke? My CTSW starts usually on the first 1/4 turn and hasn’t let me down since. Are the modules indexed to where they can fail in a certain position? 

My CTSW is running brilliantly with 790 hours on her!

You have one or both modules failing, it will happen again.  Send them to Lockwood, it’s only $50 to have both tested.  Then you will know for sure, even if you choose not to replace failed modules immediately.

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Yes I agree! 

What going on now is my 5 year hose job is do. I have a IA who is willing to take on the job. I’m going to contribute 50% in this task but he and I have never tackled this before. He’s a 30 year Cont Nd Lycome Guy. He’s actually a very well respected aircraft wrench in Montana. 

I have the hose kit from Lockwood and November 1st we’re tackling this job. My plan is to send the carbs to Roger for rebuilding and to change all the engine rubber out. 

Question? Can anyone give us a simple listing of basic steps to take in the process? His idea is to cut a hose and replace a hose. There’s more involved like draining coolant, gas lines, oil lines, accress points etc. Would some of you be able to give us a simple listing of steps to take in this process? 

I probably will have questions along the way. 

Thanks everyone! 

 

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The hose job is not hard, but it is a lot of work.  You’ll want to remove the engine at the ring mount to swing it out of the way to the right side 6-12”.  That will let you get to hoses behind the engine and going to the firewall.

Roger, Corey, or Tom can probably give you more details.  When I did it I just replaced a hose at a time and moved carefully, so it was not bad.  Mark all the gascolator hoses, there are three going in the top and it’s easy to get them on the wrong fittings if you don’t pay attention.  Also, get a good hose cutting tool, scissors or a knife won’t cut it.  You want really clean cuts to keep debris out of the lines.  Blow them out with compressed air before installing to make sure.

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Probably should replace the engine mount rubber at the same time.

When all done do not forget to properly purge the oil system before you start it. rotax-owner.com has a good video on this and other procedures. Costs about $29/yr but for folks that only occasionally work on rotax it is money well spent. 

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3 hours ago, WmInce said:

 

Highly recommended by a master mechanic.

 

 

I bought a set of those awhile back. I’ve assembled some specialty tools recommended by Roger and Tom. 

I guess my concern is I don’t know what I’m doing and then when done I will take my wife flying!😱😂

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On 10/7/2018 at 6:12 PM, Tom Baker said:

Normally if it starts it's okay to fly. The problem is in the starting circuit.

Just wanted to let you know i used a hair dryer for 10 minutes and put cowling back on and it cranked right up then flew for an hour to my A & P. This a great forum!!

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29 minutes ago, pilot1950 said:

Just wanted to let you know i used a hair dryer for 10 minutes and put cowling back on and it cranked right up then flew for an hour to my A & P. This a great forum!!

Mine wouldn’t start a couple months ago. I iced it then it started. Since that time I’ve put 26 hours on her with no problems starting. 

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16 hours ago, Buckaroo said:

Mine wouldn’t start a couple months ago. I iced it then it started. Since that time I’ve put 26 hours on her with no problems starting. 

Mine did same, it will start happening more frequently....

 

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21 minutes ago, FlyingMonkey said:

Mine did same, it will start happening more frequently....

 

I can picture a complicated circuit board where expansion and contraction regains circuitry!🤔

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It's just tender loving care its after Buckaroo, like the rest of us. If you put a rubber band around it and slipped a couple Benjamin's under the band it would probably start fine too.

Mike

 

  • Upvote 1

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