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Metal shavings in my float bowls


Ed Cesnalis

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ED. this is a common weak area on our CT's.  Even when the carb heat is not used, engine vibration will eventually cause the pivot to degrade as you show.  I epoxied in a steel bushing to fix this.  As you indicate, the paddle cannot be removed from the shaft so the shaft can't be taken out of the airbox to repair the bearing without cuttng it.  Instead of cutting and welding, I first cut a steel bushing in half.  Next I dremmeled out around the shaft to allow me to slip in the two bushing halves and then epoxied these to the airbox without needing to remove the shaft/paddle.  I think I slipped in a thin paper sleeve to keep from epoxying the bushing to the shaft.

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You do not need to cut or weld. Tell Jeremy to get a 1" metal washer and cut a slot in it. Then slide that over each side of the airbox where the rod goes through. Epoxy these in place. Piece of cake fix. This works even if you think it is too worn out or the hole is enlarged. Face one washer slot down and the other up. Works like a charm.

Tell Jeremy to call me if he has any questions.

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9 hours ago, Roger Lee said:

You do not need to cut or weld. Tell Jeremy to get a 1" metal washer and cut a slot in it. Then slide that over each side of the airbox where the rod goes through. Epoxy these in place. Piece of cake fix. This works even if you think it is too worn out or the hole is enlarged. Face one washer slot down and the other up. Works like a charm.

Excellent, Roger.

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6 minutes ago, FlyingMonkey said:

The washer serves as the new bearing surface.  It protects the airbox composite and is not hard or rough enough to wear through the rod.

Right thanks,

Guess we are getting a new bushing from FD instead.  The washer fix would provide 2 surfaces both with a grove to permit install over the rod.  Jeremy's concerned about being legal and tested ...

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