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Drip Tray and the new cylinderheads


FlyRatz

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Hi swarm intelligence :-)

is one of you aware, that the original drip trays do not fit the new cylinderhead design? Rotax has now a CHT-sensor at Cyl#3 just close to the thread where the right side drip tray is mounted. If you have a Dynon and need this CHT-sensor, you will have problems to mount the drip tray.

I directed a question to the FD-Headquarter how to solve this, but got no answer until now.  As far as I know, there are a lot more CTs in your country equipped with Dynon EMS and the new engine than in Germany. If one of you guys have this config, could you please take a photo of the situation where the right dip tray is bolted? How do they deviate the CHT-Sensor?

I am a little bit disappointed by the new FD management. In all Interviews I hear, that they work hard to improve the customer relationship. If you have a concrete question, they dive very deep.

Greetings from cold and hazy Germany

Markus

CylHead-CHT.png

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Bill,

You don't have to remove the drip trays on any CT. You just pop the spring off the top of the carb, loosen the rubber flange clamp and pop the carb backwards out of the mount. It will then raise up high enough to pop the bowls off or check carb jets. remember the video I posted?

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1 hour ago, Roger Lee said:

Hi Bill,

You don't have to remove the drip trays on any CT. You just pop the spring off the top of the carb, loosen the rubber flange clamp and pop the carb backwards out of the mount. It will then raise up high enough to pop the bowls off or check carb jets. remember the video I posted?

I find it OK to do that on SW's with the Teflon fuel lines, but not so much with the stainless lines. I find the CTLS connection to the air box to stiff.

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35 minutes ago, Tom Baker said:

I saw several thing, some of which had been corrected in some of the later pictures.

Concur.

Besides the obvious, open EGT probe holes and spacing of the probes themselves, something that got my attention was the #4 exhaust flange. The bottom nut is backed off, exposing space between the flange and nut base.

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2 hours ago, Roger Lee said:

Hi Bill,

You don't have to remove the drip trays on any CT. You just pop the spring off the top of the carb, loosen the rubber flange clamp and pop the carb backwards out of the mount. It will then raise up high enough to pop the bowls off or check carb jets. remember the video I posted?

Thought maybe, since those are redesigned trays, perhaps there was not sufficient clearance to lower the carb bowls downward, for removal.

Guess I am wrong about that.

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Boys,

do you remember my thread Be careful with the threads on your engine? You see on the pictures the replacement engine while the installation was in progress. There is no need to be nervous about untightened nuts, open hoses or something similar you could see on the pictures ;-)

@Bill: you have a sharp eye. Indeed there is very little clearance between the tray and the fuel bowl. For an inspection of the bowls, you need to either remove the carbs or the trays. The latter will be the preferred option.

btw: Today the new engine has 3 hours flight time in the logs and the first problem arises. The gear is very chatty if the engine is warm and if you move the prop by hand. Grrrrrrrrrr :-(

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Hi Flyratz,

At what rpm is the gearbox "chatty"? What oil are you using? Even if it is new do a gearbox friction torque test on it. Being new it should be around 460 - 490 in/lbs. I had a new engine once and it was only 380 in/lbs. I took it off and re-shimmed it.

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  • 1 year later...

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