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FlyRatz

Drip Tray and the new cylinderheads

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Hi swarm intelligence :-)

is one of you aware, that the original drip trays do not fit the new cylinderhead design? Rotax has now a CHT-sensor at Cyl#3 just close to the thread where the right side drip tray is mounted. If you have a Dynon and need this CHT-sensor, you will have problems to mount the drip tray.

I directed a question to the FD-Headquarter how to solve this, but got no answer until now.  As far as I know, there are a lot more CTs in your country equipped with Dynon EMS and the new engine than in Germany. If one of you guys have this config, could you please take a photo of the situation where the right dip tray is bolted? How do they deviate the CHT-Sensor?

I am a little bit disappointed by the new FD management. In all Interviews I hear, that they work hard to improve the customer relationship. If you have a concrete question, they dive very deep.

Greetings from cold and hazy Germany

Markus

CylHead-CHT.png

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I don't know of anyone here who has a CTSW with a new style engine. Most of the airplanes here with the new style engine use the Rotax air box. With those the drip trays mount to the air box, not the cylinder head like with the CTSW.

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Aaaah, this is the difference.

We have the FlightDesign Airbox and the trays mount to the cyl.head.

hmmm. Any suggestions? Replace the FD-airbox with the Rotax??

Thank you Tom.

 

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Rather than change the airbox I think I would design a different drip tray. Pick up the lug on the cylinder head and a bracket that is captured by the clamp holding the duct from the airbox to the carb. Tecnam uses something like that.

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Hi guys,

i come back to this topic with the final solution.

FlightDesign created new trays which fit the new cylinder head. The bird is back in the air.

Enjoy the pictures:)

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Hi Bill,

You don't have to remove the drip trays on any CT. You just pop the spring off the top of the carb, loosen the rubber flange clamp and pop the carb backwards out of the mount. It will then raise up high enough to pop the bowls off or check carb jets. remember the video I posted?

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1 hour ago, Roger Lee said:

Hi Bill,

You don't have to remove the drip trays on any CT. You just pop the spring off the top of the carb, loosen the rubber flange clamp and pop the carb backwards out of the mount. It will then raise up high enough to pop the bowls off or check carb jets. remember the video I posted?

I find it OK to do that on SW's with the Teflon fuel lines, but not so much with the stainless lines. I find the CTLS connection to the air box to stiff.

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35 minutes ago, Tom Baker said:

I saw several thing, some of which had been corrected in some of the later pictures.

Concur.

Besides the obvious, open EGT probe holes and spacing of the probes themselves, something that got my attention was the #4 exhaust flange. The bottom nut is backed off, exposing space between the flange and nut base.

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2 hours ago, Roger Lee said:

Hi Bill,

You don't have to remove the drip trays on any CT. You just pop the spring off the top of the carb, loosen the rubber flange clamp and pop the carb backwards out of the mount. It will then raise up high enough to pop the bowls off or check carb jets. remember the video I posted?

Thought maybe, since those are redesigned trays, perhaps there was not sufficient clearance to lower the carb bowls downward, for removal.

Guess I am wrong about that.

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Boys,

do you remember my thread Be careful with the threads on your engine? You see on the pictures the replacement engine while the installation was in progress. There is no need to be nervous about untightened nuts, open hoses or something similar you could see on the pictures ;-)

@Bill: you have a sharp eye. Indeed there is very little clearance between the tray and the fuel bowl. For an inspection of the bowls, you need to either remove the carbs or the trays. The latter will be the preferred option.

btw: Today the new engine has 3 hours flight time in the logs and the first problem arises. The gear is very chatty if the engine is warm and if you move the prop by hand. Grrrrrrrrrr :-(

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Hi Flyratz,

At what rpm is the gearbox "chatty"? What oil are you using? Even if it is new do a gearbox friction torque test on it. Being new it should be around 460 - 490 in/lbs. I had a new engine once and it was only 380 in/lbs. I took it off and re-shimmed it.

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Hi Roger,

There are voices from inside, if you crank the prop very slowly by hand: You want to listen? Click here Chatty gear

Edit:

Oil is AeroShell (red)

Friction test done and friction is at upper limit

Gearbox is quiet when cold

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New gearbox noises. Some have this more pronounced than others. Just run it an let it break in. It should go away in a few hours.

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To my admittedly untrained ear that does not sound like its coming from a gearbox. It sounds like the spinner or prop flange is catching on the edge of the cowl.

Mike Koerner

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It's definitely the gearbox. I have heard it many times. It should go away as the box breaks in and the wear points are established.

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