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Flaps and stab question.


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Hi guys

I have a CT2k. Sometimes when I deploy flaps, I hear a creaking/knocking sound. It’s just once or twice and not constant. It doesn’t happen on the ground? Is this normal? I was wondering if it is just the airframe and if anybody else has had this ?

My other question is that I recently had my pilot side left rudder pedal replaced by my engineer. This has inadvertently resulted in my stick coming back a little bit more and my stabiliser deflecting more. I’ve checked the deflections and they are good. 

I previously had difficulty getting a pronounced flare but it is much easier now that I can get the stick back further. My question is what has caused this change? My engineer says he didn’t adjust anything on the stabiliser. 

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The rudder and stick are completely isolated systems.

As for shudder: Lubricate the bearings inside of the aircraft. Sometimes it's the small foam spacer that's on the flap up against the airframe though, nothing you can do about that.

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Yes it has me confused too. Perhaps it’s unrelated and it’s coincidental. I found a camera lens cap under the stick when I opened the hatch under the seat. This must have been from the previous owner. Perhaps it had been restricting the stick movement and then dislodged, though I think it unlikely. 

I cant explain how the stick now has more movement. 

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Cap,

My CT2k flaps creak a bit if I lower them toward the upper end of their allowable speed range. If I slow down a bit more first they're quiet.

I don't use them to adjust the approach. I decide on downwind how much flap I'm going to use and adjust the approach with a forward slip if needed.

Mike Koerner

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I use Inox and have been for 18 years.  It is lanolin based and won't hurt anything. Silicone sprays usually have solvents or hydrocarbon bases which can cause fogging of the windscreen or deterioration on some plastics.  I lube all rod-ends or hinges if the plane has any at every annual with this. Silicone sprays many times will also cause the plastic bearings in the aileron and flap horns to come loose. The Inox doesn't. You can get Inox at some Ace Aviation stores or order it on line. One large can should last you a long time.  Oil could work, but be a PITA to use and may cause staining. The Inox spray can with its red 6" spray tip can get into hard to reach places and it can be force sprayed into tight hard to lube areas like a hinge because it is under pressure as it sprays out.

 

 

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52 minutes ago, Roger Lee said:

 The Inox spray can with its red 6" spray tip can get into hard to reach places and it can be force sprayed into tight hard to lube areas like a hinge because it is under pressure as it sprays out.

I purchased from Wick's Aircraft a few years ago a package of 2 long aerosol spray can straws. It had two sizes of straws, and they were 36" long for those really hard to reach places.

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3 hours ago, Roger Lee said:

I use Inox and have been for 18 years.  It is lanolin based and won't hurt anything. Silicone sprays usually have solvents or hydrocarbon bases which can cause fogging of the windscreen or deterioration on some plastics.  I lube all rod-ends or hinges if the plane has any at every annual with this. Silicone sprays many times will also cause the plastic bearings in the aileron and flap horns to come loose. The Inox doesn't. You can get Inox at some Ace Aviation stores or order it on line. One large can should last you a long time.  Oil could work, but be a PITA to use and may cause staining. The Inox spray can with its red 6" spray tip can get into hard to reach places and it can be force sprayed into tight hard to lube areas like a hinge because it is under pressure as it sprays out.

Is that food grade?:)

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