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3 hours ago, ibjet said:

. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NL4BL0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. . . . Have you ever bought just the channel strip and glued on the "D" ring? I will do that if I can find a good glue to attach the 2 strips. Maybe just use contact cement, but I think there is a better specialty glue for that purpose.

I highly recommend avoiding that.

I also highly recommend using this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NL4BL0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After using acetone to remove the old adhesive, I installed the above weather stripping on top of the original channel. Very easy to install . . . just peel and stick. Very clean and looks professional.

Been on my airplane, almost 3 years and good as ever. Even now, it makes a tight seal when closed and has not shown any seperation. After a couple of weeks, it will form fit to door and frame.

 

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45 minutes ago, Roger Lee said:

Hi Tom,

there is no down side to applying a dab of silicone on the metal door handle in the area that contacts that plastic guide. It won’t hurt a thing. I’ve been doing it on every single CT since 2006 That’s a pretty good track record of no issues. I’ve been lubing the door pins with it to since 2006 with zero issues. Silicone doesn’t belong everywhere, but here isn’t an issue. It keeps from wearing out and breaking other parts which are far more expensive and harder to deal with.

Roger, the door handle is not as critical as the control wheel shaft, but the use of the silicone there will eventually cause the handle to wear instead of the easily replaceable guide plate. Most of these airplanes will never have enough cycles in their lifetime for there to be an issue, and I wouldn't expect you to see any issues since 2006. Given enough time and cycles the handle will wear out, and it will happen quicker than if you had not used the paste.

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9 hours ago, WmInce said:

I highly recommend avoiding that.

I also highly recommend using this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NL4BL0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After using acetone to remove the old adhesive, I installed the above weather stripping on top of the original channel. Very easy to install . . . just peel and stick. Very clean and looks professional.

Been on my airplane, almost 3 years and good as ever. Even now, it makes a tight seal when closed and has not shown any seperation. After a couple of weeks, it will form fit to door and frame.

 QU

Bill - What you did is exactly what I am planning to do, but I have brand new metal re-enforced channel that I will use to bond the "D" extrusion to (my channel is coming off the flange that it mounts to). I think it will be a good idea for me to wipe the new channel down with acetone before I stick on the "D" extrusion. I have not had too much luck with the self adhering weather strip, but since you used it with success, I will follow suit! Thanks a lot Bill, and thanks for the compliment on my success with the 3D part. 

I had an issue with my 3D printer which I solved this evening and I"m sitting here baby sitting my printer while it makes the first totally complete part (the one I test fit is not quite thick enough and actually had a little bit of tilt in it). I taught myself how to put a Z off set in the printer (Z=0 was 1 mm below the glass platen)! My 3D printer is made in China and the translation of the Chinese manuals to English is terrible.

The spool of PLA filament was not feeding well originally, so I made a guide that stops the filament from coming off the spool during printing (we heard 2 large crashes when I ran it originally, the spool holder fell over)! Now I can pretty much leave it alone when I am running a 3D model that has already been proven out.  

  

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One final note on this.

The weather stripping I used (in the above Amazon link) was advertised on the 3M site, as having extraordinary adhesive properties. That was a priority in my choosing a replacement product. I did not want something that would peel off in the Florida summer heat.

I can atest, it has exceeded my expectations. It is good stuff.

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Thanks again Bill, that "D" extrusion is better than I had hoped. I was putting off the project because I did not know how to glue it to the U channel (and did not trust the self adhesive stripping). I placed the order yesterday. I love Amazon Prime!

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I finally finished my door lever latch plates (had to C'sink the holes, PLA plastic does not like being machined)! I was amazed that the parts fit without having to file or modify them at all. Now, when I finish my annual, I get to see how well they hold up (I latched and unlatched several times, they seem fine). I lubed the door latch pins and linkage with silicone paste first.
 
I have one more broken part that I'm thinking I will remake . . .       My "under floor storage" cover on the pilot side is broken. It's too big to make with my 3D printer, but I can make it in 2 pieces with "I beam" stiffeners in a criss cross pattern including where the 2 pieces will glue together. Just a thought for now . . .

I'll let all know how the door latch plates hold up. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New right door latch plate, 6-28-18 .jpg

New left door latch plate, 6-28-18 .jpg

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This is off subject, but those who were interested in the 3D Printed Door Latch Plate, might be interested in this part . . .

My Pilot side Floor Storage Cover was broken when I got the airplane. I couldn't resist doing a solid model for it . . .

Not sure when I will print it, but pretty soon. Since it is designated "No Step", I don't think strength will be an issue with it. I added a fixed tab and a flexible tab so it will snap in. I figure I can revise it if that feature breaks. I will make this in 2 pieces and glue together (it's too big for my printer bed). I will submit all 3 parts on a MRA to Flight Design. Still not finished my annual, so no wear on the Door Latch Plates yet (they latch and unlatch very easy now, thanks to the silicone paste (I put it on all the linkage joints too). Thanks for that Roger - you da man, ha ha!!!1709325299_Floorstoragecover.thumb.jpg.a01f73927d430a9b5513672ab9e9b23d.jpg638845282_Floorstoragecoverbottom.thumb.jpg.63f7514f80631a34360df1aa0a6181e5.jpg1887321059_Floorstoragecoverbrokenoriginal.thumb.jpg.6b5d691a929e20e2a82278c8b0686068.jpg

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I had one corner of my center panel broken, I repaired it by making a piece of alum to replace the missing piece (after cleaning up the broken edge a bit). I glued it on with JB Weld, the strongest version. I even tried to re-create the "brushed alum" finish then touched up over the JB Weld with silver paint. It's not very pretty, but fastens that corner and does not draw the eye like it did. 

I had already thought about the possibility of making one of those panels as a 3D print. The common PLA plastic is pretty rigid, but I don't know how it would stand up in heat. The existing panel material is something like Bakelite, which is a thermo-setting plastic (will not melt, so does not get soft in the heat, the PLA would).  

I think if I were serious about remaking one of the panels, I would get a hobby CNC mill and machine from a fresh piece of paneling. But, those panels are pretty large to get on a hobby CNC mill bed (you could leave half of it hanging off the front of the mill, then reverse to finish machining). A pretty tall order and then you have to do all the markings. I tried to find the type of paneling that FD uses and did not find it. I'm sure I could find it, but you would probably have to buy a big sheet of it which would probably cost you more than re-ordering from FD. 

Did you ask Arian for a price? I imagine he said "we do not have any"?

ET

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My access door is broken on the top and bottom surfaces and deformed. The part that I make will be black and I will paint it gray (Kryon Fusion is supposed to be for plastic) and then try to find black spatter paint and white spatter paint. Then I will have to make the "No Step" marking too. I must admit, I'm enjoying the 3D print technology as well as the solid model programming (free). I wouldn't attempt this on a part that required higher strength or heat resistance. 

ET

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On 7/8/2018 at 6:22 AM, ls6pilot said:

What would you think about making panel sections? My center panel needs repair. 

ls6pilot  If I can find the instrument panels I took off of my aircraft ( just moved houses) you can have the one I removed. The only concern I would have is the interchangeability of the panels between aircraft.

Dave

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My panels are in pretty good shape now. I do need to do some revisions to markings. The panel I had that was damaged was the lower center panel. I put a lot of effort into replacing the lower right broken corner, kind of a keepsake now, ha ha. But thanks Dave!

 

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11 hours ago, dabaero said:

ls6pilot  If I can find the instrument panels I took off of my aircraft ( just moved houses) you can have the one I removed. The only concern I would have is the interchangeability of the panels between aircraft.

Dave

Worth a try if you find them. Thanks

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14 hours ago, Roger Lee said:

They probably won’t fit. I seriously doubt panels are identically drilled.

My guess is that they were CNC cut, and the holes will be the same, as long as it is from the same vintage.

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Last night I 3D printed the smaller half of the cover, it took 3 hours, 5 minutes! I printed the larger half today, it took just under 5 hours. This evening I glued the 2 pieces together with Loctite Plastics Bonder. The bonded cover came out very flat (I put each half on an equal stack of paper on my very flat counter top). After priming, putting glue on one piece, I slid the 2 together and pressed for one minute. It says 12 to 24 hours for full cure, but feels very strong now. It's so flat, it sticks to my countertop (by vacuum)! I can't wait to snap it in place temporarily tomorrow! I saw that Rust-Oleum makes a gray spray paint with white and black speckles, but I don't think I can use that on plastic. Gotta research the painting a bit. Krylon and Rust-Oleum both make paints for plastic now. Oh, my new part weighs a bit more, old is only 2.3 oz, new is 3.5 oz. 

20180710_151427-1.jpg

20180710_205209.jpg

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It fits!!! My little spring clip broke, but I found a really nice "snap in" nylon spring clip that I can use on the front and back that will hold it down with 7 lbs. tension (that way the door won't rattle). I used Rust-Oleum American Accent, stone textured finish (the gray is off and the speckles are way finer). But, it's fine for now. This door is heavier than the original and quit a bit more flexible. But, it seems like it will hold up for now. If I ever need to remake it, I will bond on a very thin stiffener plate to approximate the "sandwich" structure of the original part. I gotta admit, this part is not as good as the original, it would break into pieces if someone applied "foot pressure" ha ha. 

Floor storage cover after 3 coats paint, sanding, and 1 more coat (not good)2.jpg

cabin floor storage cover.jpg

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Thanks for the comments Roger & Bill. I'll post one more picture when I get those snap in latches installed. About the shipping, I wish I could print some parts and sell, but of course I can't. Also not sure how FD will react to my request to approve these (It will be like I am competing with their replacement part sales). I get the impression it is just kind of a gotta do for them (maybe not, maybe is it a pretty big revenue source for them). I"ll also let folks here know how they reply. 

I would be willing to give my 3D models and 3D printing files to any member here who wants them (at no cost with no liability). 

Happy flying all . . .

 

Edited by ibjet
Added "Roger" to my thanks

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Wanted to show my snap in latch. When I finally got both pieces of the latch in the correct place it was such a wonderful sound to hear it snap down against the door seat!

Foor stowage door with snap latch.jpg

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