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Brake stuck


CT2K

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12 minutes ago, CT2K said:

Hi All,

This has been happening more and more often recently: when I release the brake, the left wheel remains stuck. Any thoughts?

You are might be letting the brake pad get too thin.  If they are not changed before hitting the lower limits, they can allow the piston to come out too far and get cocked at an angle in the caliper and jamming.  This happened to me with Matco brakes.  I now change the pads sooner and the problem vanished.  I change mine when there is about 1/16" of the wear indicator remaining.

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Most common cause as Andy said. Thin pads. It lets the piston come out too far and cocks to the side instead of retreating back into the caliper. You can release it with a flat tip screwdriver, but it will happen again. replace the pads.

If the brakes are pretty old you can clean them. You can pull the caliper. Use a little pressured air to blow the piston out. Then use a scotchbrite pad to clean the piston's outer surfaces and then the calipers inner surface.  You can replace the piston "O" ring at this time. Smear some 5606 brake fluid on the caliper inner surface, The "O" ring and the piston outer surface and then just slide it all the way back in place. replace the caliper and brake line then flush the system.

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If it is matco brakes, three common causes:

Not measuring the rotor wear. A worn rotor will do the same thing as worn pads: overextending the piston.

Not replacing the pads when the wear indicators are no longer present (I replace shortly before).

Braking too hard. These are not heavyweight brakes. Brake light to moderate. It's easy to bear down on them and bend something.

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Got prompt and valuable replies as ususal. Many thanks to all for your contributions.

Looks like you hit the nail on its head. Last  time I looked at the pads (almost a year ago) they seemed quite thin indeed. Unable to tell what brand are those pads for they came with the CT when I got it second hand two years ago.

Wil it be a complex job to replace them? Does it need advanced equipment and tools? Any recommendations for a decent pair of pads?

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As Al said those are the Marc brakes.

Besides everything that has already been said, you need to clean the pins that the disk is mounted on. The disk needs to move easily on the pins. If they are tight the brake can drag. The minimum thickness for the brake lining material is 1/32" or a little less than 1mm.

Second is you brake line appears to be clear, here in the US they use aviation hydraulic fluid which has a red tint. You can see it through the line. If by chance yours has been serviced with the wrong fluid you could have a seal swelling causing the problem.

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1 hour ago, Anticept said:

Tom:

It's possible, but 5606 does turn clear with age and heat. I'd still flush it though.

CT2K: check the wear on those rotors.

In 35 plus years working on airplane I have seen it turn brownish in color and turn jelly like, but never clear. The brakes did stick when the fluid became jelly like.

 

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6 hours ago, CT_MATT said:

Antisept,

what are the wear limits of the rotor?  I have not been able to find a reference anywhere... 

There isn't one that I can find either. Might have to contact Marc Ingegno. But for me, it wears abnormally as it wears down.

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Thanks again guys for your various contribution. Now I know the brakes are Marc. when I run a search on Marc+Brakes, I don't seem to find something that makes sense and that is linked to aircraft brakes. Should you know of a link that points to where I can purchase those pads, please feel free to share, and if you want to share your recommendations, the steps, dos and donts to replace the pads, that will be mostly welcome.

Editing to say that I have come across this link:

 

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