Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Roger Lee

Life Limited parts available

Recommended Posts

I carry in stock these life limited parts. If you need them let me know. 

CTSW or LS door lift struts (2 in set)

CTSW or LS red polyurethane front suspension spacers (6 in set)

CTSW or LS front suspension steel guide pins (1 pin)

22K uf capacitors (1 unit) (CTSW or LS

CTSW rubber engine mounts (16 per set) Usually done during hose change

Rotax stainless steel oil filter wrench

 

If you need any of these just contact me by email or phone

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If anyone needs carbs rebuilt I'm happy to do these for you and about $100 cheaper than the main Rotax service centers. I have a one day turn around.  I can do you gearbox's to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger, I purchased struts from you. The price was right.

Your advise on making them shorter for my doors worked.

You are a great asset to the community.  Do not know where you find the time to help others.

My CTSW is an 2006 with just over 600 hrs. It developed the smiley face, decided to put a new engine in. Was there ever any help from Rotax in any type of monetary value for the many owners who had this costly experience? Other than the modules, which were both replaced about 100 hours before, is there any value in the used parts or the complete engine? 

Rich

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a market for used parts. So don't just toss the engine. Where was your crack? On top of the engine?

Rotax would have helped even after warranty, but once you get too many years out they won't and Rotax is adamant on good logbook documentation and those 3 liner annuals won't cut it with them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, Roger

Do you still have the polyurethane front suspension spacers? Would you ship them to Brazil ?😁

Mine is a CT (CT-U, built in 2002), I believe the front suspension still has springs. Are these spacers a direct replacement?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The spacers do replace the spring, but there are some flat washers and another part that goes in at the top. FD USA would probably have those parts. I have never tried to ship any of these out of country. There is  probably a duty on them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Questions:  In regards to the door struts, what is meant by "making them shorter for my doors"?   Also, regarding replacing the engine what is meant by "developed a smiley face"?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some door struts were a tad too long and would bottom out when you tried to close the door the last inch or so. The easy fix is to remove the ends with the ball and shorten them about 1/8" and on both ends. This took care of the problem. later on the company for the door struts offered shorter ends which took care of this.

The smiley face is a crack on top of the engine usually. It comes from an older crankcase from the mid 2006 era and earlier. People have been warned over the decades not to over pitch their props, but owners and Mfg's did it anyway which at times caused this 2" crack on top of the thinner crankcase. After mid 2006 and later there was a new crankcase which was thicker. That said you are still warned not to over pitch your prop. I think I've said that once or twice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is one and I can't find it. I'm sure FD has one. There are 6 polyurethane dampeners.  25mm wide x 20mm long. Flat washers in between each and a spacer on top of the stack.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, PauloSerra said:

I am looking for the bulletin, could not yet find it.

From your message, it seems to be a simple procedure.

If I can do it, you can too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger - do you have door seals for the CTSW? FD shipped me some that are for the CTLS which the factory said also fit the CTSW. They don't fit. Unless you don't want to latch the doors. 

Full disclosure - FDUSA said they might not fit but I decided to try them anyway.:bad_day-3329:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry John I don't have any. You could look around some at the auto parts supply stores and might be able to come up with something. Just measure the width and depth you need.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, sandpiper said:

. . . . . door seals for the CTSW? FD shipped me some that are for the CTLS which the factory said also fit the CTSW. They don't fit. Unless you don't want to latch the doors.

Full disclosure - FDUSA said they might not fit but I decided to try them anyway.:bad_day-3329:

Hi John,

This is what I use on my 2006 CTSW.

https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Rubber-Closed-Sponge-Strength/dp/B073QXTCDB

Snug fit and very, very good bond (3M), to your existing channel material.

Before applying, remove the plastic channel and thoroughly strip and clean with acetone or lacquer thinner. After channel is back in door frame, then apply weather seal as desired. Very easy install.

25 foot length will do both doors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Roger.

Thanks Bill. I may give that a try. If I understand correctly you apply this directly to the existing door seal? Doesn't that make the door difficult to latch? The trouble I had with the FD CTLS seal was that it added just enough thickness that the doors would not latch. I was afraid I might spring the door or damage the hinges. I suppose I could have relocated the hinges outboard but was not willing to try that.

I'm probably overthinking this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, sandpiper said:

. . . . . If I understand correctly you apply this directly to the existing door seal?

No . . . not over the old seal. You apply the new seal on the original U-channel strip.  The new seal has a super adhesive backing. Just peel the backing paper off the seal and work it around the U-channel. Before applying the new seal, thoroughly clean the U-channel surface with acetone and let dry. You want to remove the entire old seal and any old adhesive debris. You can even remove the channel from the airplane, to clean it, if you so desire. But I recommend re-installing the channel before you apply the seal. It works better that way. You can position the seal just where you want it. Do not stretch the new seal. Apply it firmly and evenly. It’s a piece of cake. The hardest part is prepping (cleaning) the crap off the U-channel.

1 hour ago, sandpiper said:

. . . . . Doesn't that make the door difficult to latch?

Initially, when the door is closed, it is a tight fit,  but not extreme, where the door can’t be closed. Just lean into the bottom of the door a bit and the door will latch normally. Then . . . let the airplane sit for a couple of days. That will compress the seal and put a permanent set into it.

I think you will be real pleased with the results. It seals great and looks factory new.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just so you guys know that if the seal is too fat to easily shut the door the hinges are easily moved. I did mine. It was the easiest shutting best CTSW sealing doors I have seen on any CT. Removed that front door gap to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/18/2018 at 6:31 PM, WmInce said:

Hi John,

This is what I use on my 2006 CTSW.

https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Rubber-Closed-Sponge-Strength/dp/B073QXTCDB

Snug fit and very, very good bond (3M), to your existing channel material.

Before applying, remove the plastic channel and thoroughly strip and clean with acetone or lacquer thinner. After channel is back in door frame, then apply weather seal as desired. Very easy install.

25 foot length will do both doors.

Have you had it in the rain since doing this? Even just parked? Just wondering if there is any leaks?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, IndianaCTSW said:

Have you had it in the rain since doing this? Even just parked? Just wondering if there is any leaks?

No. I keep my airplane hangared, covered when overnight on cross-country, and avoid flight into rain whenever possible.

But I must say, I think the seal is better than the factory since my install. I cannot imagine rain getting past the seal. Also, no drafts or low-pressure suction from relative wind during flight. What’s more, it looks every bit as good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/1/2018 at 10:06 AM, Roger Lee said:

If anyone needs carbs rebuilt I'm happy to do these for you and about $100 cheaper than the main Rotax service centers. I have a one day turn around.  I can do you gearbox's to.

Excellent. Will keep that in mind.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×