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mikey70

No Cabin Heat-SOLVED!

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Not sure if it was mentioned but I was getting a lot of air coming where the door pin goes through the front. You could put your hand up there while in flight and feel air just rushing in by your feet. 
i ordered some 1 inch wide foam strips about a 1/4 thick about put a little piece over the hole and cut a slit for the door locking pin to slide through. It made the door a little harder to shut but I can reach down there now and not feel air coming in. 

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1 hour ago, IndianaCTSW said:

Not sure if it was mentioned but I was getting a lot of air coming where the door pin goes through the front. You could put your hand up there while in flight and feel air just rushing in by your feet. 
i ordered some 1 inch wide foam strips about a 1/4 thick about put a little piece over the hole and cut a slit for the door locking pin to slide through. It made the door a little harder to shut but I can reach down there now and not feel air coming in. 

I’ve tried this but can’t get the damn door to shut. 

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1 hour ago, Animosity2k said:

I’ve tried this but can’t get the damn door to shut. 

It definitely made my door harder to shut. That’s why I only leave it on there in the winter. I found some pretty thin stuff on amazon. If you get it to work it helped mine quite a bit. Granted my door didn’t seal up great to begin with

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Look at the AMP rating of the circuit breaker and multiply it by 12 and that will give you the average watts the outlet can handle. Or if you know the watts divide by 12. Your 150 watt heater will draw 12.5 AMPs. I am sure that is more than the 12V outlet can handle, and really more than the electrical system can handle even if you had the appropriate circuit protection and wiring. Remember the electrical system struggled with the original 100W landing light bulb.

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2 hours ago, Tom Baker said:

Look at the AMP rating of the circuit breaker and multiply it by 12 and that will give you the average watts the outlet can handle. Or if you know the watts divide by 12. Your 150 watt heater will draw 12.5 AMPs. I am sure that is more than the 12V outlet can handle, and really more than the electrical system can handle even if you had the appropriate circuit protection and wiring. Remember the electrical system struggled with the original 100W landing light bulb.

So I really need to be looking for like a 100-125w heater which I would imagine wouldn't do much at all. 

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I think  the  important thing is you do not try anything with the on board system. I will be trying a battery in a bag with a 300 watt heater next week. I  will  post results.

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8 hours ago, Al Downs said:

I think  the  important thing is you do not try anything with the on board system. I will be trying a battery in a bag with a 300 watt heater next week. I  will  post results.

Please post pics of setup as well! Thanks 

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Well my heater came and we test flew a couple of times. I used a 300 watt 12 volt heater with a 12 volt deep cycle battery. No improvement. Like I said in previous posts, all the holes are plugged and there are no drafts except a slight one in the tunnel between the seats. Not much draft there but there is a little. Cables run thru there so I am not comfortable doing too much there.

At this point I would't recommend spending money 12 volt heaters and batteries. They just don't do the job. 

I currently have an engine out of one plane so it will give me the opportunity  to completely go thru the entire system in that plane and double check for the no heat issue.

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Thinking outside the box, would a heated vest and possibly gloves provide a solution?

On a cold day on a motorcycle they do the trick - keeping your core and extremities warm goes a long way. And these are designed for motorcycles with charging systems I don’t think are far off from ours capacity-wise.

Just a thought.

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I had to go through mine really well. I sealed all the holes up top. 
sealed the holes from door pins. That was a huge leak and I had to adjust the little door that opens and closes to turn the heat on under the engine. 
it still isn’t great at night but I can go up during the day with temps in the low teens and feel good. 
it took a lot of sealing though. 
i would definitely check the door pin holes though. Mine were letting in a crazy amount air

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I have also checked the door pins. This can let a lot of air in. I use plastic bushings in the holes to account for any wear and installed new  door gaskets.  No air coming from there.

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Any air coming through the seams where the ceiling meets the side walls?

I noticed a lot of draft from there.

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I'll add some thoughts. The CTLS has the little diffusers to direct the heat towards the pilot. The holes drilled in them are fairly small and restrictive. This is likely going to push most of the hot air up to the defroster vent. You could try removing the diffuser, but make sure the duct stays lined up. The down side is that it will blow hot air right on your foot. Maybe you could make a cup to direct the airflow. You could also block off the defroster vent to force more out the bottom. The warm air coming out the defroster vent is immediately cooled by the windscreen.  Also having everything completely sealed will not lend itself to good heat. You will need to have airflow through the heat system to get heat in the cabin. With everything sealed up it will basically pressurize the cabin causing the airflow to stop. once the airflow stops = no heat. Try and find a way to get air to exit the cabin, so you can pull more heat in.

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Is this the diffuser you are referring to? I  have had those off and  attached a fan to  help pull heat in but still  no good.

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