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Decals & Pin-striping

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Sometimes I look at my CT and consider peeling off the factory decals and pin-striping so it would be an all-white airframe (except for N-number, of course). Then I start thinking about applying decals/pin-striping of my own design/preference.  It's about 99% certain that I'll never actually do this, but it is food for thought, something I can fall asleep to sans counting sheep.

Anyone else ever done this?

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EB3, I have removed some of my decals and it was a long and difficult process to peel a couple of the smaller decals off.  I tried hot air from a hair dryer, alcohol, solvent including acetone, goof-off, etc.  I finally used a piece of plexiglass that I formed a putty knife-like "blade" which didn't scratch the paint and some heat to raise parts of the decal where I could start to peel it off with my fingers.  It constantly ripped and I would have to start over with lifting a corner in order to pinch it with my fingers to lift it up.  I'd like to hear if there's a better way because I also would like to eliminate some additionsl decals on my 2006 CTSW.

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Originals have lasted great over 12 years however some are starting to fade.   I wouldnt mind replacing them at this point to get a fresh look. 

 

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I was looking at the new checkered Sport model and really liked the look. I called FD and Tom took the call. I asked him if I could purchase those and if so how much $. He suggested I call Aron and ask him to email me the patterns. He said it’s much easier to take the patterns to a sign outfit and have them made. I still haven’t called Aron but plan to. 

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30 minutes ago, Buckaroo said:

I was looking at the new checkered Sport model and really liked the look. I called FD and Tom took the call. I asked him if I could purchase those and if so how much $. He suggested I call Aron and ask him to email me the patterns. He said it’s much easier to take the patterns to a sign outfit and have them made. I still haven’t called Aron but plan to. 

Interesting.

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17 hours ago, Buckaroo said:

I was looking at the new checkered Sport model and really liked the look. I called FD and Tom took the call. I asked him if I could purchase those and if so how much $. He suggested I call Aron and ask him to email me the patterns. He said it’s much easier to take the patterns to a sign outfit and have them made. I still haven’t called Aron but plan to. 

Who is Aron? If you decide to call him to inquire, let us know how it turns out. I found a photo of the checkerboard pattern, and it does look sharp!

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 I just talk to Aaron at Flight Design USA and he told me he is going to go to the company and get them to send him the new checkered sport model graphics by email .  He told me that they did a brand new jubilee model and it cost $1700 for the graphics and the labor to put them on.  He also told me that they charged eight hours of labor to remove the graphics on an older model. 

 I will advise when I get that email with all the graphics you said send me the regular graphics as well as the new ones in one bundle when I get those I will advise the formum and we can go from there. 

 

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Cool, Buckaroo!  I wouldn't think it'd take so much labor to remove the old graphics. Seems like it would be a simple pull n' peel, but apparently it's not so easy.

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I friend in my hangar that had a CTSW took 3 days to remove his decals. His nephew in Denver produced a whole new set. Came out nice. It's an art all by itself to apply those decals without wrinkles.

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My concern would be that on a airplane 10-12 years old, the white will be a slightly different shade where the old decals were. Our glider club has a composite sailplane that came out od Europe, and you can see where the old registration was in certain light.

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On 2/10/2019 at 11:09 AM, Runtoeat said:

EB3, I have removed some of my decals and it was a long and difficult process to peel a couple of the smaller decals off.  I tried hot air from a hair dryer, alcohol, solvent including acetone, goof-off, etc.  I finally used a piece of plexiglass that I formed a putty knife-like "blade" which didn't scratch the paint and some heat to raise parts of the decal where I could start to peel it off with my fingers.  It constantly ripped and I would have to start over with lifting a corner in order to pinch it with my fingers to lift it up.  I'd like to hear if there's a better way because I also would like to eliminate some additionsl decals on my 2006 CTSW.

While replacing some speed tape (I think original 8 years old). I learned of a wheel that can be used on a power drill.  It is a material that feels like a waxy erasure wheel.  Pros use it to remove pinstripes on vehicles.  It worked very well for removing the tape and the adhesive residue.  Followed up with some gasoline on a rag to remove any left over adhesive, then wiped clean with alchohol. 

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Good recommendations! Areon from FD told me using a heat gun can actually cause more problems than going cold! We agreed the heat can stretch and therefore rip the tape. He said the silver is the worst! 

 

 

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13 hours ago, Buckaroo said:

 I just talk to Aaron at Flight Design USA and he told me he is going to go to the company and get them to send him the new checkered sport model graphics by email .  He told me that they did a brand new jubilee model and it cost $1700 for the graphics and the labor to put them on.  He also told me that they charged eight hours of labor to remove the graphics on an older model. 

 

Yep,  Buckaroo that’s mine! They buffed out the white and there is NO difference in the areas that had the old decals. So happy with the results and Flight Design USA’s Tom and Arian. 

 

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I had the cowling repainted due to some chipped paint. But the old scheme had three stripes that would need to be replaced. 

Rather than try try to match those up, I asked Arian about doing the new scheme. 

Kent

 

 

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We’re you around when they applied the decals? I’m just wondering if your typical sign shop could do the job successfully. I think Roger’s right in that bubbles could be a problem. 

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Any good sign shop should be able to do it. Just make sure they are aware that any cleaning/application solutions they use should be Ph neutral.

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Good point Tom! My plane is 12 years old and always been hangered. The finish is bright white and no yellowing or oxidation. Of course I wax it all the time so I can go fast!🧐

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It was a sign shop that did the work. They do mostly cars and vans. Came out absolutely perfect. I had them do the N-numbers black with a silver shadow to match the scheme. Really like how that turned out. 

 

 

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