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Decals & Pin-striping


EB3

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Nice job.  If I was in your area, this would be where I would go for decal work.  I'll have to look into the type of wheel that can be used to remove the decals.  After my experience removing some small areas by peeling by hand, I wouldn't even try to do this for a large area without some sort of mechanical help.  Or, probably best to just pay to have a shop like the one that did yours do it.

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Frank Borrmann in Germany can print out the original decals for you. I wire him funds and it takes a few weeks for the decals to arrive. Contact him at info@franx.aero. Great guy. He's thee composite expert that helped FD with prototypes and he trained most of the service centers on FD composite repair. 

Sid Lloyd
LSRM

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47 minutes ago, solarguy54 said:

Frank Borrmann in Germany can print out the original decals for you. I wire him funds and it takes a few weeks for the decals to arrive. Contact him at info@franx.aero. Great guy. He's thee composite expert that helped FD with prototypes and he trained most of the service centers on FD composite repair. 

Sid Lloyd

Thanks Sid. Good nformation.

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On 2/18/2019 at 9:44 AM, Ed Cesnalis said:
  • Airbox - rebuilt
  • Sprag clutch and redo on oil line replacement due to rubber contaminated fuel system
  • Prop replacement due to incorrect re-assembly of spinner by light sport mechanic

Sorry for the delay Ed! Sounds like you’ve done pretty good on maintenance. I’ve had little things like wires coming loose causing engine alerts, dirt in the idle jet, front gear bushing replacement. These machines are impressive!

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  • 1 year later...

I'll admit I was skeptical about what this might show, but after viewing it I think you might be on to something.  I just did N # swap on my CT, and it was a major hassle for the same items mentioned here, old decals baked on and no integrity to peel off.  I used a hair dryer very cautiously (heat guns are too powerful), too little heat and decals don't release, too much and they disintegrate and a concern on elevated temps in the composite resins.  This guy mentioned this (comment was around clear coat on paint) and stated he set to 100 degrees steam temp.  I like that little plastic scrapper also - finger nails get sore real quick.  Then when the decals are off the adhesive residue is the next battle.  That dissolver was slick, would be good to investigate what pH it is, but if only on a couple minutes and cleaned off / neutralized - I'd be using it.  I went with Goof Off and had to use a lot to get things cleaned up.  Then the last step - I was changing N # ID so the new decals would not cover all the old witness of nice factory finish with the older exposed surfaces looking like crap.  Used some McGuire's scratch remover and a wool pad to wheel it all out - that was rewarding to bring out a nice shine and final clean up.  No matter what the process is, it takes time and effort, but the reward is well worth it! 

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  • 11 months later...

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