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UCFKnight1039

Clacking Brakes on taxi and landing

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I’ve had my 2010 CTLS for a few months now.  Enjoy it very much.  However, one thing that I do find annoying, is that the mains tend to shudder a bit during taxi and landing rollout.  This shudder causes the brakes to clack on the rotors when not applying the breaks.  CLACK-CLACK-CLACK....until you apply the brakes then it stops.  It starts right back up as soon as the brakes pressure is released while moving.

Have any of you guys experienced this?

I’m assuming it is the calipers moving back and forth and bouncing off the rotors.  But thought I’d check with you guys with some tenure with your CT’s.

Thank you in advance,

Gary

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I have a 2010 CTLS that does this as well. I tend to agree that it has something to do with  the calipers, as even the slightest amount of brake pressure seems to stop the noise. I don’t really notice it during the taxi out, but definitely after landing. I am not being helpful, but you are not the only one experiencing this.

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Thank you for the reply.  Was wondering if you have owned your bird long enough to have been through a brake pad replacement.  Specifically I’m wondering if fresh pads quiet it down due to less area for side to side movement.

 

Thanks,

Gary

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Do you have Marc or Matco brake system? The Marc s rattle and the Matco do not. If they are Marc it is nothing to worry about, that is just how they work.

 

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My Matco brakes make some noose when taxiing.  It's normal with the floating calipers on both brake types.  No big deal.  I think it's usually worse on the CTSW than the CTLS due to the stiffer gear legs.

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Some noise may be present and could be normal,        BUT you absolutely need to check the pad wear and look for any abnormalities around the caliper and pad area. You can do this with the wheel pant on. Use a flashlight and look up under the rear portion of the wheel pant you'll you'll be able to see the pads. You can lift the plane by the wing and then spin the wheel and see if you see anything odd while looking up under the rear of the wheel pant.

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2 hours ago, Roger Lee said:

 You can lift the plane by the wing and then spin the wheel and see if you see anything odd while looking up under the rear of the wheel pant.

I have a hard time lifting, spinning the wheel, and looking all at the same time.:ph34r:

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The Matco brakes on my CTLS were embarrassingly noisy. Using a dial indicator, I measured one rotor was not spinning true (face runout) by .008 no matter how I repositioned the bearings or rotor. Matco said the runout tolerance was .010 max. That is unacceptable! They suggested I shim behind the rotor to get it closer. I added a .008 shim behind one of the 3 bolts and .005 behind another, achieving .001 runout. That made an amazing difference! My clacking is nearly gone.

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Thank you to each of you for your replies.  I inspected the pads today and it appears they are worn to right at replacement level.   Once I get them changed, I will report if the clacking is alieviated with fresh pads.

 

Thanks,

Gary

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As a follow up, I did change the brake pads yesterday, as well as the tires themselves.  The tires had some significant lumps in them which caused vibration and aggravated the clacking.

Replacement of the pads did seem to reduce the clacking.  Unfortunately, one of the new tires is significantly out of ballance and seems to cause vibration in the main gear north of about 30mph.  Aggravating, but not the end of the world.

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All tires should be balanced. I have never seen a balanced tire just by itself. The least amount of 1/4 oz. stick on weights I have ever used is 2. The average is 4-8 weights. I have seen as many as 20 weights on the 6.00-6 tires and I send those tires back.

Flat spots are not usually caused by being out of balance. That does cause vibration in the plane and stick though. Especially the front tire. They can be caused by braking more often than not and it can happen with just 1-2 hard braking when a wheel slides on the asphalt.

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Roger, he didn't say anything about flat spots.

In my experience the Aero Classic 4.00x6 6 ply tires have issues. The tend to have a belt separation causing a lump to develop. If you let them go a big split in the sidewall may occur. I have replaced several due to this issue. It is a tire failure. Desser did replace 2 tires for me, and the replacements failed too.

Like Roger said they all need balanced, especially the 4.00x6 6 ply tires.

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1 hour ago, Roger Lee said:

Interesting. I've never had a bad 6.00 - 6 with lumps or a separation.

I've never seen a 6.00x6 like this either, just the 4.00x6. And I've seen plenty of those.

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Not really sure what you mean. Are you talking about getting different wheels? If so I do have some of the gold wheels.

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1 hour ago, tennesseect said:

What's the easiest way to balance the wheels of my CTsw?

 

Since you still have the Marc wheels take remove the 4 disk pins, jack the airplane and balance on the axle.

I have an old Snap On balancer that I use for Matco wheels.

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http://www.marcparnes.com/Universal_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm

Very sensitive and easy to use. use the 1/4 oz. stick on weights. Clean the area you are going to stick the weights on 3 times with Lacquer thinner. Mine have never come off in 20 years. I usually have to pry them off with a screwdriver. I usually put half the weights I need to use on the outside and then the other half on the inside of the wheel. Call me if you need help.

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1 hour ago, Roger Lee said:

http://www.marcparnes.com/Universal_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm

Very sensitive and easy to use. use the 1/4 oz. stick on weights. Clean the area you are going to stick the weights on 3 times with Lacquer thinner. Mine have never come off in 20 years. I usually have to pry them off with a screwdriver. I usually put half the weights I need to use on the outside and then the other half on the inside of the wheel. Call me if you need help.

Great advice on the Marc Parnes balancer and Roger’s instructions.

It worked like a charm.

Thanks again, Roger! . . 😃

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3 hours ago, Roger Lee said:

http://www.marcparnes.com/Universal_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm

Very sensitive and easy to use. use the 1/4 oz. stick on weights. Clean the area you are going to stick the weights on 3 times with Lacquer thinner. Mine have never come off in 20 years. I usually have to pry them off with a screwdriver. I usually put half the weights I need to use on the outside and then the other half on the inside of the wheel. Call me if you need help.

I tape the weights in place before sticking them down permanently.

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I do what Tom does to. I use Duct tape over the weights to first see see how much weight I need and where. Then I mark that spot with a magic marker, remove the taped weights, clean the spot 3 times with Lacquer thinner and then apply the weights. I tap them down to make sure I remove any air voids under the tape. Do this and they will never come off.

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11 hours ago, Roger Lee said:

I do what Tom does to. I use Duct tape over the weights to first see see how much weight I need and where. Then I mark that spot with a magic marker, remove the taped weights, clean the spot 3 times with Lacquer thinner and then apply the weights. I tap them down to make sure I remove any air voids under the tape. Do this and they will never come off.

Just to take it a step further . . . I mark the beginning and ending edge of the weights (bookends) with a Sharpie. That way, if a weight is accidentally thrown, the Sharpie mark makes it very obvious.

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