Engine removal

[FlyingMonkey]

How close is "too close" to the cowling?  Most spinners are close to the lower cowling.  If you have already replaced the engine isolators and that didn't help the issue, I'd probably consider additional shimming to raise the engine slightly (easiest), slightly modifying the cowling (harder), rather than replacing the engine mount (harder still) or taking a sawz-all to it (hardest), absent any other problems with the airplane.

I understand the desire to have things "perfect", but sometimes "acceptable" is, well...acceptable.

Before I paid two grand for a new mount I'd have Airtime send me a ton of detailed pictures of the new mount, to ensure it doesn't have the same issue (or others).  You'd hate to write that check and still not be happy with it.

[Tom Baker]

Also you need to realize there is more than one mount design for the CTSW. Looking at the unedited pictures I can't tell that your mount is any different than the bent one I have in my junk box, or the one on the airplane sitting in my shop. Also none of the pictures posted show the front of the mount or the rear of the mount. I would really be interested in seeing those pictures.

 

[procharger]

 I would put that sucker back together shim as needed no cracks in mount, it ain't

going to fall off. You were flying it that way before go for it. New mount may not

be much better. Anything will fly with enough power

[procharger]

I would buy the frame even if i didn't use it someone will need one sell it 600 more than you paid buyer and

seller come out to the good.

[ibjet]

I took off my C9997006B rod ends because they are pretty much frozen up (I can barely move them by hand). 

1). Wondering if any of you can tell me if these are supposed to rotate easily by hand (in some cases rod ends are very stiff as new, a tiny preload would eliminate any slop there.   

2). I figured I will try to lube them before I give up on them (just because the visible part looks fine. Can any of you tell me how the lube port works? I had a grease gun accessory once that had a hard rubber conical lube fitting. I'm guessing that would be the way?

 

Thx,

ET

[Tom Baker]

They shouldn't be real stiff. The lube port is kind of like a chainsaw grease fitting. Getting it to take grease is almost impossible. 

[ibjet]

Thanks Tom. I guess I"ll try to get a needle nose grease fitting tip and a conical hard rubber tip (I see both those on Amazon). I'm just curious if lubing will help it (because I realize it needs to be near zero clearance inside to eliminate slope in the nose wheel linkage. I've asked Arian for a price. 

[BravoFoxtrot]

Flight Design P/N: C9997006A

Manufacturer: Fluro

Model: GA6

Measurement unit: Metric

Contact Material: Steel/Brass

Bore: 6.00mm

Ball Width: 9.00mm

Housing Width: 20mm

Thread: M6 Right Hand

Overall Height: 46mm

[Tom Baker]

I have a pair of 6's in my parts drawer, and they are to small for the front end of the rod. I think you want a GA8. You can likely find a replacement at the hardware store or Amazon. 

[ibjet]

Thank you gentlemen, I likely will need to find replacements. I saw that there is a different part number for the rod end inside the cockpit. I searched "GA8 rod end from Fluro" and found lots of hits. Looks like all in Europe though. I kinda enjoy parts hunting on the internet these days. 

But, as I mentioned I'm anxious to try to force some grease in these because they look fine. 

Again thx and I'll update. 

[sandpiper]

Inox?

[ibjet]

Thx John, I had thought about that! I think there is a groove inside that can be filled with grease if you have the right lube fitting. I plan to by a lube  gun kit and try to inject some grease under high pressure. It seems like there is some old grease in them that has become glue, ha ha. I'm just messing around with them to see if they can be freed up. If not I'll buy (2) GR8's and install.