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FlyingMonkey

Slow Flaps Cycling

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BTW, I shot some Inox on the exposed flap jack screw arm and that made my flaps act much better on my last flight.  Probably a temporary fix, but I won't know for a while because my airplane is down for maintenance for several weeks.

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10 hours ago, FlyingMonkey said:

cdarza, thanks for the great photos!  You reference a white plastic part not in your photos...can you shoot a pic of it an where it goes in the assembly?

I edited my previous post and included picture of the plastic pc - and indicated where that fits    :)

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Has anyone tried removing the whole actuator? It looks like the cleaning would be easier.,  However, the service manual does not address this. seems to be mounted with two studs in brass pivots, and tip of lead screw. Plus the limit switches and pot assembly. re-assembly is probably two persons to move flaps to place bolts.

I think I would risk having to re-adjust the limit switches, and the angle sensor (pot). I wonder about risk and reward of doing it that way.

i have the switches to set the flap angle in the controller.

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On 12/2/2019 at 9:06 PM, Aaronp07 said:

The exact same thing happens to my 2009 CTLS, exatly as you described it. Happens almost every time on the first flap movement of the day on the ground. I have also tried the Inox with no success. I have been perplexed for months. Ill keep an eye on this thread. If you find anything out please let me know, and I will do the same. 

Will do.

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Thank you, Corey and cdarza !!

Had a slow & uneven flaps actuation (see video).

Inspired by Corey's description and cdarza's photos, I leapt in and dismantled, cleaned and re-greased the Flaps Actuator in our CT2k.

Much smoother action now.

Thank you again for generously sharing this knowledge.

David

Australia

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UPDATE :

After cleaning and greasing with Moly, the Flaps behaved much better - for a short while - then, just as bad as before !

Removed the motor/gearbox again, and observed that even a tiny glob of the new Moly grease going through the gears, caused the motor to labour.

Cleaned the gearbox out and put some Shell Advance VSX4 oil in it (there is a gasket between the electric motor and the gearbox) leaving the Moly on the jack-screw and bearing-races.

After several flights and much Flaps cycling, all now working perfectly.

David

 

IMG_1815.thumb.jpg.a2adb3e5902f3e70ae1ab9e2dcf97fc2.jpg

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On 2/19/2020 at 6:36 PM, BMcCand - N248CT said:

Has anyone tried removing the whole actuator? It looks like the cleaning would be easier.,  However, the service manual does not address this. seems to be mounted with two studs in brass pivots, and tip of lead screw. Plus the limit switches and pot assembly. re-assembly is probably two persons to move flaps to place bolts.

I think I would risk having to re-adjust the limit switches, and the angle sensor (pot). I wonder about risk and reward of doing it that way.

i have the switches to set the flap angle in the controller.

well, replying to myself!  I did try to remove the actuator, but could not loosen all 4 screws on the left side of the mount. This is behind the aileron trim lever. I used the way of removing the motor 4 screws . dissassembly, greasing was easy. However, getting the bearing into the proper position to place the white plastic rotation lock was challenging. finally rigged the inspection camera to look, got pin pliers into the two holes to rotate bearing. took 2 days, including dropping white piece.. even with a towel 

Happy to report flaps work well now, will actually get down to 40 deg at 60 kt.

 

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Corey thanks for the advice.  Cdarza and David, excellent photos and commentary.  Does it appear that the drag is being caused by lack of lubrication to the jack screw assembly or is it being caused by poor lubrication of the ball bearing area? If jack screw is the culprit, is there a seal on the screw preventing getting grease into it?  Is there a way to force lubrication and work this into the jack screw and activator by running up and down while working grease into it without tear down?

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On 3/28/2020 at 2:36 AM, Runtoeat said:

Corey thanks for the advice.  Cdarza and David, excellent photos and commentary.  Does it appear that the drag is being caused by lack of lubrication to the jack screw assembly or is it being caused by poor lubrication of the ball bearing area? If jack screw is the culprit, is there a seal on the screw preventing getting grease into it?  Is there a way to force lubrication and work this into the jack screw and activator by running up and down while working grease into it without tear down?

Hi Dick.

I just took Corey's advice and re-greased the Jack-Screw.

The grease that I cleaned off the Jack-Screw and around the Gearbox was, in places, quite hardened and so wouldn't have been much good for smoothing the action.

The re-greased Jack-Screw certainly screws in and out much easier (when twirling by fingers to extract it and re-insert it) than before - I did feel some binding on the Jack-Screw initially, but this seems to have been overcome by the new grease and the oil in the gearbox.

The hardest bit of the process was being a contortionist doing it all through the Luggage-Door.

Cheers,

David

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On 3/28/2020 at 2:50 AM, FlyingMonkey said:

I'm working on an alternate solution to this problem, will let you guys know how it works out.

Hi Andy,

I tried ADE-WERK GmbH for a replacement actuator .. they directed me to their 'distributor' for this part: Flight Design, Germany (no response from them yet).

I did see a bunch of 150mm linear actuators on eBay - cheap-as-chips ..

David

IMG_1809.jpg

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On 3/25/2020 at 2:22 AM, BMcCand - N248CT said:

well, replying to myself!  I did try to remove the actuator, but could not loosen all 4 screws on the left side of the mount. This is behind the aileron trim lever. I used the way of removing the motor 4 screws . dissassembly, greasing was easy. However, getting the bearing into the proper position to place the white plastic rotation lock was challenging. finally rigged the inspection camera to look, got pin pliers into the two holes to rotate bearing. took 2 days, including dropping white piece.. even with a towel 

Happy to report flaps work well now, will actually get down to 40 deg at 60 kt.

 

Good persistence, Bill !

8-)

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