Animosity2k Posted February 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 1 hour ago, Tom Baker said: To gain access behind the Dynons remove the whole panel. That can be done by removing the perimeter screws and setting the panel out. It's pretty easy, and will only take a couple minutes. You shouldn't need to unhook anything, just let the panels hang. You might want to protect them with a towel. Tom silly question but a while back I tried to remove the left side and gave up because the perimeter screws seemed to just keep spinning but not backing out. Any experience with this or tricks to combat that? As always, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted February 9, 2020 Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 1 hour ago, Animosity2k said: Tom silly question but a while back I tried to remove the left side and gave up because the perimeter screws seemed to just keep spinning but not backing out. Any experience with this or tricks to combat that? As always, thanks! That is no good. The screws go into a rivnut in little tabs around the opening. If the screw spins and doesn't come out it means the rivnuts are turning in the tab. You will need to get to the back side and hold the rivnut on back the screws out, then reset the rivnuts. It might be something you will want to leave to your mechanic or avionics shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animosity2k Posted February 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2020 Wanted to update everyone as I am still having issues. I sent my logs out and received this reply"I took a look at the logs and saw the spark plug boot event. No problem as that should be fixed. I see an ETPU synchronization error there as well. This is usually related to the ECU or Crankshaft Position Sensors. Take a hard look at the CPS wiring near cylinder 4 to make sure it’s not burned or chaffed. If you run the engine again can you get another flashing light?"I was told to have my mechanic cut the corroded part of the spark plug wire going into the one boot. He refused to do so. I ended up having to spend $1,100 to get new wires installed! A $233 part and a lot of labor.I took the plane home from the airport I serviced it at and had no light occur during 45 minutes of flying. Today I went out to make a 2hr XC trip at night and about 40 minutes into my flight I had the Lane A light turn back on and the ROTAX Land Aircraft Immediately warning pop on. At this time I had no loss in power or did I feel anything different at all. I made a diversion to a different airport and landed. Started the plane and did a run up and noticed a 100RPM jump when doing my lane check. The lights cleared so I decided to proceed forward, by the time I taxied to the end of the runway the light came back on with the warning to land the airplane. Given that I had no engine issues I decided to take off and return home. I'm a little frustrated as now I've had to ferry the plane to another airport to have this worked on 4 different times with no luck. Does anyone have any other ideas that I can look into? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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