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Panel Update


GrassStripFlyBoy

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Will have the whole panel done tonight, weather turned crappy so I banged out the center radio stack, and the last of items I had to order arrived yesterday.  Wait to you see the whole thing.  And then I'll be at the point of perhaps making some of these for others, including the fuel plaques as well.  

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Buttoned it up, to highlight some details:

Using new N #, paperwork arrived but have yet to do that, Michigan is opening back up, will visit FSDO next week and swap the graphics on fuselage.

Placed Vfe speeds as flags on the airspeed indicator, have these memorized but visually helps.

Removed Garmin Aera 500, between GRT and iPad, the Garmin was essentially obsolete.  Plan to use Ram mount here for my cell phone, maybe the iPad Mini but I still prefer that upper location.  Having real estate to work with is a luxury in these panels.  Room for future needs.

Added an additional 2.25" instrument hole, had the space, thinking an MGL 4 probe EGT, or keeping options open on autopilot if I was not to use the GRT for that.

Not shown is I'm mounting Stratux with dedicated powered mini usb feed on the firewall above my foot pedals, with remote antennas.  Essentially making a portable unit a panel mount system, remote behind the scenes.  No more battery powered and sticking to window.

On vacation next week, I'm going to put a many hours on this as I can.  Perhaps a one night trip to Florida - why not!

 

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  • 2 months later...

Darrell, are you making those panels yourself or do you have "a guy"?  Either way, is there the potential for similar but slightly customized panels you could sell?  I'd be very interested, my panel just looks "old" and needs a refresh.  BTW my panel is fairly similar you yours, the changes would be mostly minor.

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Hey Andy - funny you should ask, yes I'm moving towards making and selling some the lower panel and control panel items.  I'm working with Dick to see how consistent the aircraft are, but realistically the critical nature of the throttle stop and such will require someone to fine tune them prior to finish.  This may require me doing a rough blank, ship out to confirm fitment / dial in any tweaks / custom needs, then ship back for paint & etch.  I work a day job, and have plenty on my plate for moment, perhaps when weather turns I'll start to focus more on this.  The fuel placards are easy enough to rip out a batch - I'll likely start with them first.  Hang tight, will hook you up. 

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7 hours ago, GrassStripFlyBoy said:

And I'd entertain doing a full blown panel all the inserts.  Either fabricating all or simply the paint & etch.  I'm thinking of going into all popular aircraft for offerings.

Darrell,

 

Do you have a .dxf or similar file for the panels you are willing to share? I am mostly interested in the overall outside dimensions 

 

Thanks,

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No 2D or 3D data on this, I traced the factory outside shapes and made a few adjustments to sweeten gap to mushroom lip.  I also put a very healthy rad on all the back side edges so I don't scratch up the paint on mushroom when pulling / reinstalling for service.  I believe the factory inserts are NC machined / consistent, the mushroom likely has some variation in shape to it.  I also learned the vertical edges that are straight lines are not plumb / square to the world.  I mounted the EFIS square to edge for esthetics and find everything is still decent appearance on screen, but if you split hairs on tolerances be aware the build variations are a factor and don't trust a factory surfaces for reference to anything.

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37 minutes ago, GrassStripFlyBoy said:

No 2D or 3D data on this, I traced the factory outside shapes and made a few adjustments to sweeten gap to mushroom lip.  I also put a very healthy rad on all the back side edges so I don't scratch up the paint on mushroom when pulling / reinstalling for service.  I believe the factory inserts are NC machined / consistent, the mushroom likely has some variation in shape to it.  I also learned the vertical edges that are straight lines are not plumb / square to the world.  I mounted the EFIS square to edge for esthetics and find everything is still decent appearance on screen, but if you split hairs on tolerances be aware the build variations are a factor and don't trust a factory surfaces for reference to anything.

 

Understood, I am working on making a drawing for the panels, Long term I would like to have some carbon panels water jetted. These were lifted off another forum member here and modified by me to more closely fit the actual mushroom on my panel. I make changes and the plot the changes on paper that I use that for a template. When im happy with the layout, ill possibly bite the bullet for the carbon panels. 

 

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  • 8 months later...

Here is an attempt at engraving a few labels with the same laser that GrassStripFlyBoy was using , but  on a powder coated panel ...  was playing with a few different settings and even on the highest , it is not as clear as on bare aluminum with just paint but I think I can make it work.

 

Laser1.jpg

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  • 2 years later...

I'm digging up this nice post !Thank you for this. I'm currently rebuilding my dashboard installing an MGL EFIS.

@GrassStripFlyBoy If I've understood correctly, you're using an aluminum plate that you've painted with a primer and then a special aluminum paint. Then you laser etch to remove the paint and reveal the aluminum. Is this correct? 
From what you've done, I don't get the impression that it's in relief like on Warmi's photo. Did you apply anything extra for the finish?
I've got a CO2 laser at work, so that's not a problem.
I was just wondering what material to use for the dashboard to be as light and strong as possible.
Are you happy with how it holds up over time? I was thinking of using anodized aluminum, but the finish won't be as nice on the counters, which don't cover the cut-out.

Thank you

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Aluminum used is 6061-T6 and most pieces are 0.063", the radio stack center section I believe was 0.090" due to the thinner sections.  Whatever you use, be sure to place a healthy radius along all the backside periphery edges so it does not tear up the mushroom when installing.

Paint I used is Rostoleum, mixed satin black with a gloss gun metal, for a semi gloss outcome in a dark metallic color it took blending to achieve.  I decanted the paint from rattle cans and sprayed using a touch up gun, for better coverage & appearance verses the rattle cans.  I orbital DA sanded the aluminum and it's held up perfect, and creates a nice matte silver background on the etched areas revealed.

Anodized aluminum is great if you have the power to etch it, and can find a color you like.  

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Thank you Darrell.

I will show my progress here. What do you mean by "healthy radius" ?
For the anodized aluminium the problem is not to engrave it for me but to properly cut it to obtain clean edge without removing the anodization especially when you have instruments without covering edges.

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