Bill3558 Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 I slipped the carb bowl clip off the port side to see if I could see anything in there. Couldn’t because there is a fuel overflow tray beneath it which prevented me from removing the bowl. So I clipped it back on and went flying. This morning I have a small puddle of fuel under the airplane. Tray was wet with fuel. Is there a wrong way to put the bowl back on? Here is a bad pic. You can see the drip starting. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 You probably didn't re-seat the gasket properly -- it's tricky, you have to run your hand all the way around the underside of the carb and make sure the gasket is in the groove all the way around before seating the carb bowl. If you twisted/crushed the gasket, you might need a new one. You really have to pop the carb off the intake socket and lift it up a bit to drop the bowl and get it out. If you are careful with it it doesn't disturb the attached cables or mess up the carb sync. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill3558 Posted June 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 Thanks FM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warmi Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 There is a video going into a bit more detail on how to do it ( I think Roger posted it years ago ). Also be careful with the gasket and floats ( make sure these are perfectly aligned ) - it is possible to introduce debris into to bowl if you are trying to force things ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted June 30, 2020 Report Share Posted June 30, 2020 The video and Flying Monkey's advice are for the CTSW. From the picture it looks like you have a CTLS. Popping the carb out of the carb socket doesn't get you where you want to be. For the CTLS I normally partially remove the drip tray. Remove the 2 screws holding it on and kind of twist it out of the way. Don't try to remove the tubing. Be careful, because the trays can be damaged. Like the others have said it is most likely a gasket, but it could be that the float valve is not shutting off the fuel like it should. Also worth noting is that in my opinion it is a good idea to shut the fuel valve when you park for the night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill3558 Posted July 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 Tom, I loosened the tray as you suggested which gave me a little more wiggle room. I could see the beige colored gasket and saw no damage. I reseated the bowl and the leak stopped. I did a run up and all seems to be ok, no sign of further leakage and engine runs fine. In the future, If it ain’t broke, I’m not going try to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted July 1, 2020 Report Share Posted July 1, 2020 6 hours ago, Tom Baker said: The video and Flying Monkey's advice are for the CTSW. From the picture it looks like you have a CTLS. Popping the carb out of the carb socket doesn't get you where you want to be. Thanks Tom. As you know I only have CTSW experience and sometimes my answers are blindered in that direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 2, 2020 Report Share Posted July 2, 2020 Okay I'm back and the story of my demise was greatly exaggerated. It was Fly Monkey had my evil twin lock me up so he could catch up on post numbers, but I've escaped Hi Andy. Just kidding. The carb bowl check in the video works for either the SW or LS. It is actually easier on the LS because instead of the early SW stainless steel fuel tube the carb is fed by the Teflon hose which is very flexible and allows you to turn the carb a lot more. All you need to do on the LS to have more wiggle room between the carb and air intake socket is take a 10mm wrench and loosen to the last 2-3 threads the 10mm nut in the center of the airbox with the rubber isolator on it. Takes 10 seconds. Also loosen the clamp on the carb on the air intake side so the carb now pops out of both rubber mounts. I use this method on LS annuals when I check the carb bowls for debris and weighing of the floats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MEH Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Missed you, Roger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 53 minutes ago, Roger Lee said: It was Fly Monkey had my evil twin lock me up so he could catch up on post numbers, but I've escaped Curses, foiled again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vance Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Hi Roger - nice to hear from you again! When pulling the carbs free of the sockets does that have any effect at all on throttle stops, balance, etc? I’ve been pulling the drip trays because I’m not sure it’s risk-free. 10 seconds is attractive, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 1 hour ago, FlyingMonkey said: Curses, foiled again! Hi Andy, Nice to hear from you. Hope all is well out there. Look forward to seeing you and Bill again one of these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Just now, Roger Lee said: Hi Andy, Nice to hear from you. Hope all is well out there. Look forward to seeing you and Bill again one of these days. Maybe we can get out there sometime NOT in the stormy season! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 1 hour ago, John Vance said: Hi Roger - nice to hear from you again! When pulling the carbs free of the sockets does that have any effect at all on throttle stops, balance, etc? I’ve been pulling the drip trays because I’m not sure it’s risk-free. 10 seconds is attractive, though. Hi John, Leave the drip trays alone. They break easier on those narrow tabs. Since everything on the carb is moving together nothing else should be affected. I've been doing it this way for 20 years and never had any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 12 minutes ago, WmInce said: Roger, as per your video demo (thank you!), where should the throttle control be set . . to relieve the tension on the carb cables? Hi Bill, Nice to hear from you to. It won't make any difference since your only moving it out of the rubber socket and then turning is sideways. It is the cable sheath that would need to be changed and not the inside cable itself. p.s. Can't turn the SW carbs with the stainless steel fuel tube to the carb because it's too ridged, but you can lift it enough to clear the trays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 4 minutes ago, FlyingMonkey said: Maybe we can get out there sometime NOT in the stormy season! Why not now. You and Bill like storms and hurricanes. LOL You should be used to them by now. Plus you can make you 5 day trip into a 3 weeker. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrassStripFlyBoy Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 As I'm new to the 912 and SW, and aware of bowl corrosion risks, I did a precautionary check last weekend. Both bowls had the white corrosion on bottoms, nothing was loose by finger picking at it. Cleaned both up and plan to order new bowls as I believe mine are either original or at least aged. Being my first bowl check, I performed it by pulling the carbs from sockets and that technique provided enough clearance. What I was not expecting is how hard (effort and finger clearance) it was to slide the bails off the bottom of bowls, and return them back to place after cleaning. I did not want to press / stress brackets for controls on carb, and to gain more strength it's temping to wrap more of your hand around carb components. I'm also not a fan of using screw drivers to pry things with the minimal clearance to bail and result in marking up the bowl with scuffs and scrapes. So, I took a cheap harbor freight medium size screw driver, heated the shank and bent tip 90 degrees keeping the blade parallel in line with shaft. This allows you to work from the bottom space between bowl and drip tray. Slip it between the bail and bowl, rotate it to pry / release one side of bail, slip under to the inside of bail and release it, and the bail is partially angled off the home detent. Then on bottom center of the bail with the gap started, slide that screw driver tip through opening and then pry against the bail and bowl to drive it up to 30-40 degrees at which point it becomes an easy hand effort to finish the removal. Reinstall was hand effort as far as I could comfortably close by fingers, then used channel lock pliers to squeeze the last bit tight. I plan to take a pair of channel locks and grind the ends to a shape for a special tool on this job. Put both of these tools in my bag kept in the plane. Curious what others have for tricks on this? Maybe I simply needed to pull the carbs up and further away from sockets? Regardless, I want a technique that is easy and repeatable, just like flying I think maintaining things should be joyful, I get as much fun from working on the CT as I do as flying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okent Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Roger is back! Good to see you here again. I go over to the Rotax forum occasionally so I don't miss any of your excellent posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 I use a crescent wrench for help in removing the bales. I set the slot so it just fits over the bale. Place it near the bottom of the bowl and twist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tip Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Hey Roger, Welcome back! You have been missed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Thanks guys. That's nice to say. I'm still here if anyone needs help. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandpiper Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 Hi Roger. Good to see you back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 6 hours ago, sandpiper said: Hi Roger. Good to see you back. Hi John, I just talked to a friend of yours at your home field. I think it was about an RV12? I hear your having fun up north. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandpiper Posted July 5, 2020 Report Share Posted July 5, 2020 A problem with the voltage regulator and charging the 912ULS in an RV-12. It took about 30 seconds to exhaust my knowledge about the problem. I’m not sure about the regulator they used to replace the old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 On 7/3/2020 at 10:52 PM, Roger Lee said: Thanks guys. That's nice to say. I'm still here if anyone needs help. . Now you just need to buy a new CT! It made me very sad when you sold yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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