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Do I need to remove the wheels to change the brake pads? My MM describes the other brake system. 

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yes it's much easier. You need to take the screws out of the brake disc. This just allows much easier access. You can either put a block under the axle or put a 6' ladder with a pad under the wing out by the tie down, but not directly on the tie down. If you need a little more lift add some more padding on top of the ladder. If your tanks are full remember that while the wing is up in the air it is slowly transferring fuel to the low wing and could over flow if the level is too high in the low wing. I prefer to use an engine hoist with a tire mounted on top. That way I can lift the one side long enough to remove the tire and then lower that wing to be more equal to the other side while I work on the wheel or whatever I'm doing down there.

20180409_121147.jpg

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Thanks.

The brakes are binding though there’s still plenty of brake pad left. Might just need to disassemble and clean 

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When you say binding it could mean the puck that comes out of the caliper is sticking or the pins that guides the caliper or something else? If you don't know just clean it all. 

The two horizontal pins that the caliper rides on can get dirty. These can just be sprayed off with Brake Clean from a spray can and then wiped off or you can remove the wheel and caliper and wipe them off. You can also use some Brake Cleaner or Lacquer thinner and wipe the disc off in case they have something on them. 

You can still see the witness marks on the pads?

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By binding, I mean the wheel when lifted off the ground and rotated, does not spin freely but is still in contact with the disc.

regarding the witness marks I’ll check, thanks again.

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3 hours ago, Roger said:

By binding, I mean the wheel when lifted off the ground and rotated, does not spin freely but is still in contact with the disc.

regarding the witness marks I’ll check, thanks again.

The Matco wheels should not spin freely as compared to traditional aircraft wheels. Their procedure for setting bearing tension leaves some drag on the wheel. One good spin of the wheel should only go around once or slightly more, and not spin freely. It has to do with the design of the grease seal built into the bearing.

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I would also add that I normally replace the brake pads before they get to the bottom of the wear mark. The piston in the caliper does not have a guide pin like Cleveland aircraft brakes. That means the more the brake wear the less support the piston has to stay in alignment with the caliper. That combined to the fact that the force of the piston does not hit the backing plate of the brake pads squarely will allow it to get cocked and cause the brakes to lock up.

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I'm with Tom on the binding. The old Marc brakes had round sealed standard bearing so tightening the axle nut had no influence and the wheels turned freely. The Matco's have a tapered roller bearing. That's better, but you have to use the correct amount of axle nut torque for these type of bearings because that's what holds these bearings in the proper place. The old Marc bearings couldn't be grease, but you need to grease the Matco bearings.

So with the wheel off the ground and the disc in place. Grab the tire and spin it fairly hard. It should rotate at least one full turn, but no more than two turns. It is supposed to have some drag and that's normal. What we want here is for the whole bearing not to turn in its position. We are want the internal rollers to move. Over tightening the axle bearing will create too much pressure and then the internal rollers might no rotate properly.  If your wheel turns more than once, but less than two turns put the cotter pin back in.

 

Matco manual:

http://www.matcomfg.com/WHLWI62TechnicalManual-idv-3671-23.html

 

 

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