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Fuel tank cap fitting loose


Big Flapper

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I have a loose fuel cap fitting which turns about 1/4 turn and there are traces of fuel along the rear or the fitting. Looks like this was a problem before and a 1/8 inch line of epoxy was applied around the fitting. I'm thinking of removing the added epoxy and replacing it with something better. Any suggestions???   Thanks  Tom

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50 minutes ago, Big Flapper said:

I have a loose fuel cap fitting which turns about 1/4 turn and there are traces of fuel along the rear or the fitting. Looks like this was a problem before and a 1/8 inch line of epoxy was applied around the fitting. I'm thinking of removing the added epoxy and replacing it with something better. Any suggestions???   Thanks  Tom

I'm about to do my filler necks, they seem to be weeping a little fuel along the wing.  Any fuel-resistant epoxy should work, I'll probably use JB Weld (not the fast setting JB Quik), but I'm sure there are fancier options.  I think dremeling out the old epoxy and laying new in there should be fine. You should not need to dig in more than a millimeter or two.  But you may need some more work than this if the fitting is actually turning...Tom & Roger will know the drill.

Roger has in the past recommended the small burring ball Dremel head for this work.  I'll lay some tape/padding around the work area in case the Dremel gets away from me.

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If the red anodized ring is turning, then yes it needs to be addressed. They are glued in place with a fuel resistant epoxy. I think that the traditional JB Weld should work, but you can check with Arian at FDUSA for his opinion on what to use. When gluing it back in place I would drain the fuel, and try and get a rag spread out on the bottom of the fuel tank below the filler to catch any epoxy drips. you should be able to pull it back out through the filler.

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46 minutes ago, Tom Baker said:

If the red anodized ring is turning, then yes it needs to be addressed. They are glued in place with a fuel resistant epoxy. I think that the traditional JB Weld should work, but you can check with Arian at FDUSA for his opinion on what to use. When gluing it back in place I would drain the fuel, and try and get a rag spread out on the bottom of the fuel tank below the filler to catch any epoxy drips. you should be able to pull it back out through the filler.

Tom is there specific glue that goes in before the epoxy, or is it all held in place with the epoxy?

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34 minutes ago, Tom Baker said:

I have never had to completely re-glue one. I have chipped out the top layer and ran a bead of JB weld around to fix a weep. If you tape around the opening and the filler you can lay in a nice bead. let it start to tack up, and pull the tape. It will still flow and leave it looking nice.

Great tips, thanks.

 

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