procharger Posted February 8, 2022 Report Share Posted February 8, 2022 My front wheel has some play in it when I move the front wheel it has about a 1/2 inch movement left to right but the at the top there is no play, slot and the pin look good and tight what should looking for CTSW? I The whole assembly does not move side to side or left to right when off the ground. Bearings in wheel are fine no movement there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted February 8, 2022 Report Share Posted February 8, 2022 I have one coming in the shop soon with a loose front gear. I am also doing a hose change so the whole assembly is coming off the airplane. I'm going to engineer a fix along with my local machine shop. I suspect wear in the lower bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted February 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2022 I going to take it apart tonight and see what going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted February 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2022 Most of play is in the slot not much but enough, when you take the nut off inside the fork is everything supposed to come apart or do you have to tap on the threaded rod up in the fork to separate the upper parts?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted February 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2022 Slot to the pin has about .006 is that to much feeler gauge takes 95% of the play out?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted February 8, 2022 Report Share Posted February 8, 2022 The rod is also threaded in the fork itself. I have a special nut I made using a acorn nut and a set screw that I use to help unscrew the rod if the nut on the top side doesn't make it turn out. Here is the damper exchange documentation. It may have something useful. 070720_3 Nose Gear Damper Exchange Procedure_1.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted February 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 Thanks Does rod unscrew out of the bottom of fork or it doesn't matter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrassStripFlyBoy Posted February 9, 2022 Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 I had mine apart last year to verify what dampers were installed, as well as grease and inspection. I recall having a challenge in reinstalling the assembly back into the rocker (KA4010001) due to the spring forces taking things out of location. Ultimately, I was able to use a couple quick grip squeeze clamps to push rocker back into location and slide the nose gear back into hole. Reading the procedure I see it mentions having a second person push on rudder pedals to overcome spring force, is that a good method? Tom, any other tips on the reinstalling with spring force at play? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted February 9, 2022 Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 There should be no up / down free play and no more than about 1/4" of side to side. If you have 1/2" or more side to side correct it now because it will wear faster and more once started. If you have a tad side to side then either a new standard 8mm pin or a 8.2mm pin needs to be installed. Most buy my 8.2mm pin because sometimes the original 8mm pin wore the slot wider just a tad. If the 8.2mm is a bit too wide then just sand or file it down and hand fit it to make it perfect. Up and down free play is caused by either the dampeners need replacing (these are consumable products) or the 13mm Locknut that holds the front suspension together is lose. I have only seen this twice and it was because of a previous mechanic install not quite correct. One I saw was only on by may 1-2 threads. Repeated hard nose landings will cause the dampeners to be replaced sooner rather than later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted February 9, 2022 Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 1 hour ago, procharger said: Thanks Does rod unscrew out of the bottom of fork or it doesn't matter? Do not bother the screw that comes out the bottom of the fork. Just push the front suspension guide pin out of its slot. Then take a 13mm socket on a 12" extension and unscrew the nut down inside the suspension. It's easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted February 9, 2022 Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 42 minutes ago, GrassStripFlyBoy said: I had mine apart last year to verify what dampers were installed, as well as grease and inspection. I recall having a challenge in reinstalling the assembly back into the rocker (KA4010001) due to the spring forces taking things out of location. Ultimately, I was able to use a couple quick grip squeeze clamps to push rocker back into location and slide the nose gear back into hole. Reading the procedure I see it mentions having a second person push on rudder pedals to overcome spring force, is that a good method? Tom, any other tips on the reinstalling with spring force at play? The easy way for one person is to sit on a stool. Then put one hand in on the rudder peddle and push and take your foot and push or pull on the wheel pant fairing. It doesn't take a lot of pressure on the front wheel to align it up and then just screw the bolt in. I have been doing it this way since 2006 and never an issue. When you guys have problems or questions you are welcome to call me. Sometimes that's faster and easier to answer and come to a solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted February 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 Roger can I get a larger pin from you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted February 9, 2022 Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 3 hours ago, procharger said: Thanks Does rod unscrew out of the bottom of fork or it doesn't matter? It unscrews out the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted February 9, 2022 Report Share Posted February 9, 2022 11 hours ago, procharger said: Roger can I get a larger pin from you? I sell everyone the 8.2mm pin so they can make adjustments and make the pin a perfect fit by sanding or filing it down a tad.. If you've got side to side play your slot may be a tad wider than stock. Yes sometimes the standard 8mm pin still works, but a low percentage of the time. The widest pin I have is 8.2mm. If your slots are wider than that then call me and I'll tell you how to fix it. I don't know of anywhere you can get a wider pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
procharger Posted February 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2022 Is the pin that slides through slot on nose also goes through brass sleeve should the pin fit tight in brass sleeve also, mine is very loose in that hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted February 13, 2022 Report Share Posted February 13, 2022 1 hour ago, procharger said: Is the pin that slides through slot on nose also goes through brass sleeve should the pin fit tight in brass sleeve also, mine is very loose in that hole? After talking to Ronnie the problem is solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted July 30, 2022 Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 Hey all, I'm attaching a video of my problem. Video was taken with that nose wheel off the ground. Can anyone let me know how screwed I might be. New part or repair? 2004 ctsw. I have hardly any left turning authority on the ground and could not turn onto the active runway from the taxiway today. No problem turning right, I think because the wear is only on one side of the axle mounting hole. It looks like the nose axle has way to much play. My tire was pretty much straight when full left rudder trying to taxi around. When the tail is lifted off the ground and I lock my rudder pedals to one side I can move the axle independent of the control horn. In the video you can see me moving it by hand to get the right amount of turn deflection to the left I think I need. My issue only arose when visiting Virginia and another shop moved my bird into a hangar for the night with a dolly without me there. My rudder pedals were locked to my control stick so no free movement for the wheels to follow the turn. I uploaded my video to YouTube. Don't get to upset with the videographer, one handed is tough Attachment didn't play for me. PXL_20220729_175620992.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrassStripFlyBoy Posted July 30, 2022 Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 You'll be able to sort this out with either repair or a replacement. Contact FD USA and maybe Airtime for new or used part availability. If it was mine to repair I'd probably find a 4130 tube 4130 Alloy Steel Round Seamless | Aircraft Spruce with OD close to the ID of the factory part (may have to turn it a bit on lathe to match diameters), then sleeve the upper area, weld it in place, and weld the slop in old holes, and remachine the diameter. New hardware too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted July 30, 2022 Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 It wouldn't even be necessary to put a sleeve on the inside, that would be no problem at all to fill the holes with a weld and turn it. It would probably require heat treatment after turning and drilling though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 30, 2022 Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 I’d weld the holes and drill them back out to remove the free play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 Thanks all, Looking for a welder closer by that can take a look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 It’s really an easy job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 I just inspected this on my plane - does the attached video look like I’ve got too much play? IMG_1428.MOV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Hey Chuck, Before I answer and get corrected by the forum folks. I'm not an A/P, IA and my advice has no guarantees. I know there is an acceptable amount to tolerance/play that A/P checks during inspection which does not hinder taxi/turning authority, but I dont know that number. I had close to the same amount. Can you see the main bolt in the bracket and axle move? Are you rudder pedals moving at all when you do that by hand? That bolt must be really loose and/or hogged out to move that easily with your hand. Mine you really had to give it some elbow grease to rotate the axle inside the steering bracket. Of course during taxi those forces meant nothing with the full weight of the engine pushing the axle down and nose gear bracket to rotate. I could not get off the runway to the taxi way with mine before the repair. I lost about 30 degrees of movement from my rudder pedals to wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredG Posted March 26, 2023 Report Share Posted March 26, 2023 I have owned a 2006 CTsw for 14 years. My plane is registered as an ELSA and I do my own maintenance and annual condition inspections. I have no credentials to repair, maintain, or inspect anybody else's airplane. That's more movement than I would be comfortable with. My first effort would be to fine out what was allowing that much movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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