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  1. 2 likes
    So it’s been about 10 days and I feel as if I can discuss what happened. I was with my instructor on a short hop from Santa Fe to Albuquerque to get signed off for class C airspace. Preflight went without issue. Flight down to KABQ was without incident, performed a single T&G, and proceeded back towards KSAF. roughly at the midpoint between KSAF and KABQ I looked at the engine instruments and noticed the oil PSI was falling. I pointed this out to my instructor (and aircraft owner) and we elected to continue straight towards KSAF to avoid a turn, and also avoid a metro area towards KABQ. At the time I was over some uneven terrain east of I25. I elected to bring the aircraft closer to the interstate as we knew there were multiple open desert areas for landing if needed, and we’d be closer to help if we needed it. We also began to very slowly climb to try and keep our best airspeed toward the field but also buy us the added benefit of altitude if the motor did stop. We also discussed our options if the engine did infact stop, to include the BRS. The oil PSI continued to fall (from roughly 18 when I first noticed to as low as 4) we only received an alarm when the oil temp also fell (no alarm for the pressure). At the same time I noted a change in the sound from the motor. We lost engine power within 30 seconds as it completely stopped. At this point we were roughly 2000 feet AGL, 9 miles from KSAF, and just immediately crossing a Mesa in the desert. Once we lost power i put the nose down and asked my instructor to take the aircraft at that point. I have roughly 30 hours, he has thousands. There were multiple open desert fields, near both the interstate and access roads, that appeared to be pretty level and clear of debris, so we quickly agreed to make the landing vs use the chute. Santa Fe tower was quickly notified of our plan and the transponder was changed to 7700. We quickly descended to our intended area for landing, deployed 40 deg flaps, and slowed to 42kts before touchdown. The touchdown was pretty firm. We traveled across the desert on the ground approximately 150 feet before the nose gear hit the only &$#%£€$ rock in the field, collapsed the gear, and flipped the aircraft over. Here’s the result. I received a laceration on my head, some sore ribs, but I’m otherwise okay. My instructor was uninjured. Unfortunately the aircraft is a loss. it is worth noting that there was oil streaked across the entire bottom of the aircraft. The aircraft was approximately 10 hours after its 100hr inspection, had 1400ish hours on the Hobbs, and had an oil temperature sensor replaced the day prior. This was the first flight since that repair. We had 30gal of fuel prior to take off, and oil was on the upper 1/3 of the area on the dipstick for our preflight, so no clue there to expect any issues.
  2. 2 likes
    Complicated question with many possible answers. Would need weather conditions as well as sea Condition to make a judgment Call. If the wind conditions over the water are 40 kts And you landed into the wind then you can theoretically touchdown at zero ground speed. Under the same conditions if you pull the chute, Then you would hit the water at 40 kts Ground speed, or water speed if you prefer. In my Coast Guard career I have seen a number of airplanes land in the ocean.In a tricycle gear like a CT you can expect to be upside down in your seatbelt and that is not an easy position to get out of unless you have your seatbelt cutter handy. There are a lot more considerations but I will leave you with this information for now.
  3. 2 likes
    Sorry for this terrible event! But all things considered, it turned out quite well. Airplanes are always expendable in these situations, and the airplane did it's job, sacrificing its life to save the occupants. It sounds like everybody involved kept a level head and did what needed to be done. You were smart to hand off control to the instructor, and it sounds like he made a good minimum speed landing. Sucks that you guys struck a rock on the rollout, but Mr. Murphy is always lurking around airplanes! I'm glad the injuries were minor and you both get to tell the story later. It sounds suspiciously like your mechanic didn't secure an oil line or other oil system component after finishing his/her work. I would look over the engine with a critical eye and find out what failed. If the mechanic's work is the cause it's time for a calm but firm conversation with them. You might want to talk to an attorney first.
  4. 2 likes
    I just wanted to gush a little about Rotax. I just finished my conditional/100hr inspection. My engine has right at 850 hours (730 be me), and is 15 years old (late 2006 manufacture). The compressions are 78-79/80 on all cylinders. The engine runs beautifully, and doesn't leak any fluids. All I really do is scheduled maintenance. I change the plugs at every conditional inspection, and change the oil every 50hr (93 octane mogas). I do the 5yr rubber change on time, and overhauled the carbs at around 500hrs (which is late, but I don't like messing with things that are working well - carbs were still like new inside). For unscheduled maintenance, I had one exhaust pipe break requiring a weld fix (in Tucson, inconvenient but Roger saved me), probably due to a poorly adjusted exhaust that was putting pressure on the pipe. I also had to replace the ignition modules as many of us have. Other than that...nothing. This has just been a great engine, and compared to my friends with Ly/Con, Jabiru, or other engines that end up replacing jugs or doing other relatively major engine work every 300-600 hours, it has been supremely reliable. I think liquid cooled heads and the advanced cylinder linings really help with keeping this thing ticking along. I would not hesitate to buy another Rotax engine, and in fact would be a little wary of buying an airplane with a different engine installed. I have gotten used to this level of reliability, and suspect most other engine types would frustrate me.
  5. 2 likes
    You'd be proud of me Roger...I just finished my annual and the logbook entry is 4-5 pages of 8pt font text.
  6. 2 likes
  7. 1 like
    Does your metal line have the leak under a crush washer or where the metal line itself goes into its end fitting? Maybe a crack in the matal line where it inserts at the end there? Using the newer teflon hose from Rotax is better. Rotax wanted everyone to switch over many years ago. When using the teflon hose. The assembly goes like this for the crush washers. Take the banjo bolt and slide on a washer, then slide the hose end on the bolt, then another washer, then the spacer and then the last washer. I have never seen a fuel leak here that can't be stopped. ROTAX 912 UL FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY _ FUEL HOSE ASSEMBLY _ AIRBOX ASSEMBLY _ California Power Systems.html
  8. 1 like
    Leading Edge Airfoils has the hose in stock, but better yet when I was looking I came across this. https://www.leadingedgeairfoils.com/flexible-retrofit-kit.html It has everything you need plus a couple extra items, plus it is less expensive. It also shows in stock at CPS for the same price.
  9. 1 like
    To me it looks similar to the paint cracks on my cowling from flexing.
  10. 1 like
    I spent a lot of my summers water skiing on Lake Michigan when young. I quickly learned to take off and come in on the beach due to the cold water. The water temp, in the middle of August, averages around 68 F near shoreline and lower towards the middle of the lake. Survival in this temperature can be from minutes up to 2 hours. My friend Phil had an extra survival bag called the Land Shark Survival Bag that he gave me. This is a mylar bag which can be intered and then zipped up and traps water which is then heated by one's body. It prolongs survival and is orange for emergency responders to hopefully spot. In addition to a life jacket, I carry this bag whenever I travel across any of the Great Lakes, which is infrequent. FWIW, I will pull my chute and open a door prior to ditching in the water. For land emergency landings, if no roads are available, I'll pull my chute and keep the doors shut but open the vent window to provide a spot to grab for leverage pushing or pulling on the window/door if it fails to open. Of course, the whole top of the plane should no longer be there so this is an exit too. https://southernboating.com/electronics-and-gear/safety-gear/land-shark-instant-survival-shelter-stealth-bag/
  11. 1 like
    I’d be afraid of bracing an arm onto the spar - enough energy in the crash to break your arm, dislocate a shoulder, etc. No doubt you’re going to want your arms if something goes south in the crash. I believe the right answer is very tight harness, a helmet if you’re that concerned. Or some foam padding on the spar.
  12. 1 like
    double thumbs up. Related to my other thread - my lightspeed zulu 3 was broken in my forced landing. Fortunately it was just contaminated with blood and broke one of the size adjustment sliders. The rest appeared to be a-okay. bummer is that lightspeed wouldn't repair my headset because it was contaminated with blood. Good news is they were willing to mail me the needed parts to make a repair myself. Hopefully in a few days I'll have an operating headset again.
  13. 1 like
    I would think that since you have the benefit of knowing that your most likely outcome is a ditching, I would have a solid, pre-determined set of factors for which option to take. Make a plan and stick to it. That is generally going to end better than making a decision in a stressful situation. I would pull the chute over water.
  14. 1 like
    Ah, "to chute or not to chute" -- the age old question with a thousand answers! I generally contend that in an engine out in the CT, my plan is to find a landing spot and set up for a landing. If anything doesn't look close to ideal down to short final, I'll use the chute. I agree with Eddie on this, statistically you are better off under the parachute than in an off-airport landing. That's not just Cirrus, it's all BRS deployments when made within the deployment envelope of the system (in the CT's case, the entire flight envelope of the airframe down to pretty low altitude). Off airport landings end in fatalities about 25-30% of the time, whereas BRS deployments within parameters end in fatalities very close to zero. If anybody knows of such a case I'd like to see it, I have not found one yet. Even outside parameters BRS does remarkably well. Even though the system in the CT doesn't have many "in the wild" deployments, it's a system FD worked with BRS to design, and other BRS-blessed systems have performed as I described, so there is no reason to assume the FD system would not perform similarly. Most of aviation safety is an odds game. Don't fly in weather where the odds are against you, don't fly if you suspect mechanical issues, don't make the "impossible turn"...etc. Basically try to set yourself up for survival. In this case I think the odds favor a BRS deployment over an off-airport landing, but of course circumstances can change that. I have also flown that area between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, and it's pretty desolate. Given the near-pristine landing zone in the picture, I very well might have attempted the landing as well. There are dirt roads out there and some paved but little traveled roads as well, I might have tried to aim for one of those if possible. I have a crappy 121.5MHz ELT, but I carry a 406MHz PLB that is registered with NOAA; if time/altitude allowed I'd have tried to activate that during the descent. Everybody has their own risk calculus with regard to emergencies, and I'm not saying that the above is "the best". I'm just describing my reasoning on the matter, which I think is largely based on logic and maximizing the chances of a good outcome. Reasonable & rational people can certainly come to other conclusions.
  15. 1 like
    Couple of questions on the specific incident in the OP 1. What harness were you wearing, was it tight at the start, and did either of you tighten it before impact? 2. Did either of you strike your head on the spar box at any time? 2a. Was either of you ever knocked unconscious? (BTW - you might want to ignore this question unless you first talk to an AME because it can have ramifications in getting a medical later on, if you lost consciousness - I don't remember how long but it matters how long, as well, if I understand correctly. I'm not an AME but I had this situation arise once and it affected a medical.) 2b. Where did you rib injuries come from? 3. Did you unlatch the door before touchdown? Why or why not (including "I didn't think of it" or "i wanted structural integrity" or anything else)? 4. If you opened the door after impact, was there any difficulty in unlatching or opening the door? 5. How much fuel was on board at impact and did you have a fuel leak? If so, from where and how much? 6. Did the ELT go off by itself? Did you set it off manually before or after the impact? 7. What was the disposition of the rocket and how did the emergency people deal with it when they arrived? Did they know about it? Did you warn them?
  16. 1 like
    Maybe we could start a thread called “Good Fields Gone Bad”! The majority of my training, instructing and flying was done in and around S FL. Get just a little west of Miami or Ft. Lauderdale and you’re over either Everglades or Broward County Water Management areas, which is swampy and largely very inhospitable. But there were always nice looking tracks on top of berms and the like and I always kept them in mind were an engine to fail. A Cirrus with a failed engine attempted a landing on one of these enticing options. I’m sure it looked great from the air… From ground level not so much… [ Tearing the main gear off a Cirrus takes no small amount of energy. Again, all’s well that ends well, but with a 60 kt plus touchdown speed in a Cirrus, there’s a lot that could have gone very wrong, and a CAPS pull into the swamp would have likely been a safer option. Except for the alligators and snakes I suppose!
  17. 1 like
    https://www.amazon.com/YYST-Stainless-Buckles-Buckle-Webbing/dp/B0774KKHWF It will need to be sewed on to the strap, or maybe a new strap.
  18. 1 like
    An old credit card makes a good scraper when removing tape residue.
  19. 1 like
    I know that yellow stuff is hard to get off. That yellow hard stuff will come off with Goof Off. Just soak it a bit and use a wetter rag. It will come off you just have to work at it a little longer vs the Bolus tape residue that wipes off. IF you decide to scrape it off some just be careful not to take the paint with it. Be very careful if you do this.
  20. 1 like
    Ok I have to put in my 2 cents. This issue with calendar time for wing inspection drives me crazy. The manufacturer should be determining the wing inspection by hours flown or cycles on the wing, ( the British Bulldog records load cycles in military use). Sitting in a hangar is not going to cause an issue for the wings. Some may say you could have corrosion. The wings are carbon fiber and if you get corrosion on the fittings then take the plane out of the ocean surf. Anyway now I'm happy to have my rant.
  21. 1 like
    Reach out to Jeremy, he is great, honest and understands we don't have unlimited funds. I've been very pleased with his service, work and log entries. He's done a few minor things for me as well as this last annual in Feb 2021. PM me if you need his contact info.
  22. 1 like
    A few things: 1) Go to Harbor Freight and get the set of plastic automotive trim tools (I use the blue ones). You can use them to break the bead of the tire to the wheel and get the wheels to release the old tire easier. It makes things MUCH easier. The tool won't hurt the wheel or tire (who cares about the tire, you're changing it!), so feel free to put some muscle on it. The tool will flex, but I've never broken one. 2) Before mounting the tire, put the tube into the tire (use tire talc) and then inflate the tube just enough to take shape. That will help avoid pinched tubes. If you use too much air the wheel halves won't go together -- use just enough air to make the tube take its shape. 3) Before mating the wheel halves together, set the valve stem so that the tube is as far from the wheel as possible while still going through the stem hole. Then run a finger wound the wheel half and get the tube as far from the wheel as possible all the way around. It will only be a few millimeters. Then carefully set the other half of the wheel on and bolt it together, trying not to shift things around too much. This is not super easy, the bolts often don't want to go through enough to get the nuts on. You might have to use a fair amount of elbow grease. 4) Don't worry too much about the bead of the tire setting on the wheel. If you can get the halves together enough to start the bolt, then tighten them, you'll be fine. Once the wheel is together fill the tire to 35psi and it will set itself on the wheel bead. 5) Bounce tire on the ground several times as if the wheel is landing, hard. If the tube is pinched, you want to find out before you mount it so you don't have to do everything again. Listen all around the wheel for the sound of any hissing air, even faint. If you hear air you might have a pinched tube. 6) Remount the wheel and set the airplane's weight on it, and check the pressure. Roll the airplane back and forth a couple of feet, then let the airplane sit at least a half hour, an hour or more is better. Re-check the psi. You will lose a tiny amount of air every time you check the tire, they don't have much volume. But if the two measurements are more than 2psi apart you probably pinched a tube (or let a lot of air out when checking them). Refill to 35psi and check them again in another half hour if they were down a lot. 7) If the tires are holding air well, go fly. I'd make a few landings locally on them at first. Watch while taxiing for poor taxi speed, excessive throttle needed to taxi, or the airplane turning strongly in one direction or the other -- those are signs of a tire losing air. If the tire goes really flat the airplane will not taxi at even full throttle. I had to change a tire beside a taxiway last year, it's not a fun time! As you can see, pinching a tube is the biggest danger here; other than that it's straight forward. The trim pry tools will make your life a little easier...I keep one and a spare tube in the airplane in case I need to change a tire away from home. Good luck!
  23. 1 like
    Are you using a USB power outlet charger. If so, make sure you have a higher current one. I have one that is a dual 2.1 amp port charger. This charges my iPad (albeit slowly) while the screen is on and foreflight is running. Some of the “cheaper” chargers just can’t keep up, and might only provide 1/2 amp of charge current, which can’t keep up with a running iPad.
  24. 1 like
    Ron & Jan will be there. We volunteer in the Museum during the Show. Be nice if we could designate a time to meet at the CT Booth. Would enjoy meeting you all.
  25. 1 like
    Flying has been a thrill for me ever since AFROTC gave me my first 35 hours FREE in 1964. But all things come to an end. I feel the time has come to sell my last airplane – a 2008 CTLS. IMHO she's the best equipped and maintained early CTLS you'll find. A complete equipment list and maintenance dates plus the latest Blackstone Engine Oil Analysis are available for the asking. The plane is hangared at KSRQ and has been flown 12 months a year since new. For further info call me at 919-749-3373 or email n544ct@gmail.com
  26. 1 like
    No, you should see all targets. What is your altitude AGL? I find I can't always reliably get ground station signal below 2000ft AGL or sometimes even higher.
  27. 1 like
    It's definitely true, the CT is not easy to land. I gave my airplane to two different friends to land (one the owner / chief CFI for the local flight school), and both remarked how hard it was. The CFI friend remarked "I don't like how that airplane feels, it's just weird." Another acquaintance took about ten hours of initial training in a CTSW, then switched to a 172. He said the 172 was "easy mode" comparatively, literally night and day difficulty in his words. I think there's a reason LSAs generally have higher accident rates on landing than Part 23 certified airplanes. The good news is learning to tame a CT will make you a better pilot!
  28. 1 like
    I just went and did a couple of touch and goes and had my wife video the landings from outside the plane. They don't look as bad from outside as they seem from inside! I also spoke with an F35 pilot who also flies the local Sheriff's Department's CTLS. He said the CT was the hardest airplane to land that he has ever flown. Said it took over 45 hours until he really got it down. This made me feel a little better! Then he jumped in his RV and flew away!
  29. 1 like
    It's very high potential for me, it may only be a day trip / flying in, or I could be there for several days and drag the pop over to camp on site. Or it could pan out I ride along in the Citation like '19, here's arriving Appleton:
  30. 1 like
    its actually on a ball mount and I have two longer extensions. I can move it closer to me and rotate it If I want.
  31. 1 like
    The 760 didn't fit in the panel but close enough for the low budget upgrade. Tru Trak head was replaced with Dynon AP74 for input and Dynon D100 takes over as AP head. Tru Trak servos replaced with Dynon servos GDL 50 was mounted and connected to avionics bus for ship's power Echo UAT with antenna and GPS were added Aera 760 replaced the 496.
  32. 1 like
    I think I am going to start doing that every other wing pull, so you don't have to pull them a year early while doing the rubber replacement. I ran into a 2006 CTSW that had never had them changed last fall.
  33. 1 like
    Besides the inspection of the structure, and changing the sight tube, the other big thing is lubrication. You have steel pins in aluminum bushings. The pins and bushings need to be cleaned and re-greased. You also have the flap connection that needs greased. Then you have two stainless pins. One goes into a aluminum bushing, the other into a spherical bearing. these need cleaned and lubricated. All of these dissimilar metals need protected, and leaving them together to long can be problematic. If you would like any guidance before pulling the wing feel free to reach out.
  34. 1 like
    Andy I'll agree that these engines are amazing, when it's time to upgrade the plane to a 4 pax, I'll likely go to a Sling with the 915! my engine has 375 SMOH and comps were 84 to 85 on all cylinders, she's making very little metal and only a slight weep of coolant from the breather (or what ever it's called) at the bottom of the case, so little I don't need to add any between condition inspection. I also has a crack in the exhaust that was a very easy fix. The CT is a great plane IMHO, in the MX department, as long as you stay on top of things. I've addressed every MX item needed over the last 2 inspections so I'm comfortable taking her anywhere. (2 years on the rubber, 1 year on the chute and rocket, 1 year on the wing pull, new front gear bushings this year, new breaks, tubes and tires last year, sealed the fuel tanks (had a leak from the patch they come with from the factory) Next investment is a panel upgrade swapping my BK KX125 for the Garmin GNC 355, upgrading my TT Digiflight IIVS to the XCruze and off to start IFR training.
  35. 1 like
    For several months I have been working on trying to reduce stall speed with the use of vortex generators. I installed vgs on wings and stabilator at various % chord and even used two types of vg's however was unable to provide a significant reduction in stall speed. About a month ago I was having a conversation with Tom Peghiny about vg's and he brought up a possible issue of something not having to do with stall speeds. It involved possible boundary layer separation in cruise on the top of the cabin. I installed string tufts along the top of the cabin and with a video camera mounted on the vertical stabilizer and found that no separation occurred in cruise. Later that day I ran the full video and saw that the boundary layer completely separated during the flare to landing. I guessed that this might affect the tail due to significant disruption of airflow on the stabilator so I added 22 vg's about 2 inches behind the windshield. Flight tests showed no boundary separation during flare to landing with the vg's. Cabin vg's definitely would be a positive addition due less drag and maybe better stabilator control when landing to avoid sudden descent that we all are aware of on a CT. I discussed this issue with Anni Brogan, owner and test pilot for Micro AeroDynamics and came to the conclusion to add vg's to the stabilator. I added 40 vgs to the stabilator at 4% chord and tried them in a convergent pattern and a divergent pattern. I settled on the vg pattern NASA did in a study and is recommended on stabilator type aircraft. I installed string tufts on the stabilator before and after installing vg's and videoed them with a camera mounted on the gear leg. Then the flight tests started and all I can say it was a game changer when it came to landings, like night and day comparison. There was total stabilator control all through te flare to the landing. Over several dozen landings over a number of days I tried to force the plane to stall out of the flare with no luck, I flew on calm days and also with 11 kts gusting to 17 kts. Sometimes a gust would balloon the plane up and still had effective stabilator control. All landings were done with engine at idle. Once I prolonged the flare so long I got the angle of attack so high the bottom of the tail scraped the runway and the plane continued to a nice landing. If you flare at 6 ft above the runway I'm sure nothing will help except some power. I also performed approach, departure and accelerated stalls at altitude and found no change in handling. I generally don't do full power stalls in my plane as I have an E Prop which gives me a higher angle of attack and with the vg's my concern is a possible tail slide if I hit turbulence at the wrong time. My vg's are now permanent. If anyone decides to do this change the vg kit is available from Micro AeroDynamics for $395 and includes everything. I would suggest that you should attach the vg's temporarily with the double faced tape which is included and evaluate your plane's performance before making them permanent. Do your own analysis for your aircraft as some planes may differ. Mine is a CTSW. The videos I have included are not geat and I had the mike on so they are noisey, they are my first attempts for a film career 😁 cabin top with vgs_448x252.mp4 cabin top withno vgs.mp4
  36. 1 like
    👍 Sounds good. 🙌 I did one last week that was 4 pages #9 font. A two pager today.
  37. 1 like
    For anybody that doesn't have one, Roger's filter wrench is awesome, Gets around the exhaust easily and makes removing/installing the filter a breeze.
  38. 1 like
    You could make a strap handle very quickly and easily. Or buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Handles-Wrangler-Unlimited-Adjustable-Accessories/dp/B08KZPRRW7/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=bar+strap+handle&qid=1619017262&sr=8-15
  39. 1 like
    I have NEVER found an aircraft tire in balance. I balance all tires. Several ask me what I did to their plane. I ask what do you mean. They said it didn't vibrate anymore. I just balanced the tires. Especially the front one. I just balanced a set of 4.00 x 6 8 plys and one took 9 weights and the other 6. The other thing it may be is the front suspension may need new polyurethane dampeners and or the suspension guide pin. Lift the front enf about 2" and let it down firmly. It should be firm and no play up & down. Lift the front end and try to move the front wheel left / right. No more than about 1/4" free play.
  40. 1 like
    I'm friends with all my clients and treat their plane as if it was my own. I go out of my way to make them feel safe and in a friendly environment.
  41. 1 like
    I can see composite repair because it is more a specialty and that could easily need training to do it correctly and not just a normal inspection like rickeysmith was asking about.
  42. 1 like
    I found it curious they do not publish speeds like they do at most other large fly-in events. In my case on Wednesday at 11am, the wind was from the southeast, so on the radio frequency they want you to monitor, the air boss said they were landing runway 8. Not 9, because those are the big runways to the north, the Other Side, and they want to avoid confusion between the two. Therefore, I chose 65kts as my pattern speed at 400' AGL (515' MSL). I thought this speed would be slow enough not to run over anyone I would encounter in the pattern and I also wanted to have 15° flaps set entering the pattern for more speed stability. At 65 kts, just a quick pitch up will get you to 60kts and 30°+ flaps. You must fly the pattern in relation to the ground references shown on the map! All the way to the county road in the west before turning north. Then, turn inbound without straying north of the runway at all. You need to be at 300'AGL by the time you reach the approach end if the big runway to your north. These are all covered in the NOTAM, but emphasized during the takeoff briefing. You need to depart the pattern at a 45° angle at midfield downwind, also. I was told all the altitudes were in AGL because the helicopters operating just east and over the pattern deal in AGL, mostly. The CT is a very capable airplane and this strip at 2200' is no big deal. I was worried because I land on a long, hard surface runway (2900') most of the time, so I practiced crosswind landings with 30°+ flaps on our little grass strip at Arthur Dunn. That runway is 1800', and that allayed any worries I had. With the 9kt crosswind from 140° or so and 30° flaps, I had to throttle up to get to the end after landing. I think my experience was a little unusual since I was the only plane inbound and in the pattern. The advisiory frequency was quiet, except for the airboss announcing runway 8. There was parking just off the runway on the actual flightline, so you were real close when it comes time to leave, but you have an extra layer of wristbands because you are on the flightline (I will attach a photo). If the flightline fills up, they let down a rope and you cross a little road to the Paradise City parking. I am not sure if you can camp there, though. Don't forget your own tie downs! I have some small screw type I carry in a bag. You must tie down your plane like on the Other Side, the big boy runway. Similar to a Roach Motel or the Hotel California, you can land at any time, even during manufacturer's demos, but you can't leave except during general flight time, which is in the morning and after the airshow, not during manufacturer's demo or other events there. You can also do as many circuits of the pattern as you want once you get your takeoff briefing and it is your time. Everyone is really helpful and friendly, so you can ask questions repeatedly to avoid getting into trouble. I will definitely fly into Paradise City again. It puts you much closer to the action than the other side and parking your plane in the middle of nowhere and miles from anything. Sorry for the long post...
  43. 1 like
    I parked next to N372CT, a CTsw. I was the only one inbound to Paradise City when I flew in. We were parked just off the runway in the flight line area. I had a great time. Great airshow, too.
  44. 1 like
    Light crowds, estimated 80% of exhibitors showed up. Very “personal”, exhibitors had lots of time to explain their wares thoroughly... had a blast. Good turnout at FD... lots of F2 interest. The Oklahomans were there and they did a beautiful paint job on their SW. PS, that’s the famous Arian BTW... great mechanic and guy
  45. 1 like
    Been pretty busy. We are doing a pretty major remodel of the building here at our airport, but her goes. 4.5 meters of 7.5mm fuel hose. I have used BMW V-fuel hose with good results, available for a local BMW auto dealer if you have one. Airtime sells the OEM hose imported from Europe. FDUSA has some that works well too. Roger likes the Gates 5/16" Barricade hose, but I am not a fan as it is to loose on some of the fittings to suite me. You will need some 1/4" fuel hose. The Gates works okay for this. I normally buy 10 feet at a time, but you probably won't need that much. I normally do a wing pull during the hose change, so I change the sight tubes. I buy from FDUSA, but you might be able to find a cheaper option. Change the engine mount rubbers. Pick them up from Roger Lee. For the 90° coolant hose I use a Gates 28467. You will have to trim it to length. Less expensive than Rotax, and better quality that what they were offering when I started using them. For the oil hose I normally buy it from Lockwood they have a better price even when I figure in shipping. A normal CTSW takes 1.5m, but with the oil thermostat I expect it will take more than two meters. Also if your current oil return line has the figure "S" to the tank I would but a 90° oil fitting and change the routing of your oil lines. Also anyplace where the oil hose makes a fairly tight radius you will need an internal spring in the oil hose to keep it from collapsing. The newer hose just doesn't hold its shape like the older hose did. I normally buy 5 or 6 foot of new firesleeve in both -10 and -14. I replace the longest section of each size and the use the piece I replaced for the next longest and so on. If you know a mechanic that has end dip for the firesleeve see if you can buy a little. I normally thin some ultra copper silicone and use that. You will need a couple feet of Gates green stripe 1" heater hose for the large coolant lines. This next batch of stuff comes from a Rotax distributor. I will list quantity and part number. 2 meters 922-250, 2ea. 267-789, 5ea. 950-143, 2ea. 430-622, 4ea. 230-910, 2ea. 230-300, and1ea. 881-920. I normally do a carb inspection while I am doing the replacement, and I use kit 999-521. If you don't buy the kit you will need 2ea. 861-115, plus 6ea. 950-141 for the fuel lines to the carb if they are removed. If you check the friction torque you will need an additional 950-141. I also normally change the oil filter 825-016 and 8 sparkplugs 297-940. Take a good look at your exhaust springs. If they need replaced I use H4452 from LEAF, they are a nice stainless spring. Rotax says to change out the fuel pump, so you will need a 893-115 fuel pump assembly. You will need 2ea. 250-425 when changing it out. For clamps you will need probably 26 or 27 Band-it clamps, but I would get 30, you will mess a couple up. For Oetiker single ear clamps you will need 10ea. 19.8mm clamps, maybe six 13.3mm clamps, then 20-25 total 14.5 and 15.7 but I don't have a specific number for each. I work from a tray with all of the sizes, and lump them together as small and large. I also sometimes use a couple of Norma fuel injection clamps in 13mm or 14mm. On those I often change the slot headed screw out for a hex headed one. This is the basic stuff that I use when I do a hose change on a CTSW, and I think a fairly complete list. I do not reuse gasket rings, o-rings, or any other parts that Rotax says should be replaced while doing maintenance. Others might do things differently and not use all of the same parts. If you have any questions fire away.
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