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About GrassStripFlyBoy

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    Pilot Member

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    Croswell Michigan
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  1. Here's my thoughts: Under chute the plane will settle mostly straight down into the drink, and you'll be facing water level immediately to some point, maybe a third or more, up the outside of doors. To open the door against the water will take effort, and might mean keeping your calm to realize you need to flood the cabin to close to the same level so the doors can be opened in neutral state of forces. Realistically it's probably a dynamic where you're going keep pushing that door open, the water is rapidly pouring in, and it works out, but the point is your not setting nice and pretty, the plane will be sinking quick at first, then once wings are in the drink, then a much slower process. You also have to manage getting free of belts, headset cables, and anything else that might entangle you. (on that note - this is why I like my center cam lock belts, once you pop it, it's 4 free ends with no loops remaining) If there is appreciable wave action like the great lakes can be, you'd be getting tossed about in this as well. We just heard how this forced landing with kinoons lead to not recognizing where the door latch was located, and that is after everything stopped moving, and no water rushing in. I'm convinced the post ditching event is survivable in the summer months with basic life saving equipment, but that is what gets most people. Can you imagine getting out of the plane and then treading water, being a needle in the proverbial hay stack? I'm a fairly nimble athletic person, timing the bail out of the door at the around the stall speed a few feet off does not strike me as bad of option as riding it all the way in, both are tough choices one would have to make. I'm not suggesting anyone follows my choice in this, but realize either way - you're not staying with plane so I'll just 'step out a bit early'. And I've thought about this for many years and come back to the same thought, I'm bailing out. The first major SAR mission I flew is accounted here: Missing and Feared Gone - AOPA Imagine receiving a call that a C-150 went into the middle of Lake Huron, and you're asked to go jump in your C-150 and fly grid patterns for hours on end over the same water looking for him. Call came in late that day, we called it off at dark. Did not sleep that night.
  2. Doing a fair amount of over water work, I fly with a sailing life vest on, the thin front self inflating type, it's pretty comfy. Don't buy an auto inflating (pops when wet) boating type if you consider one of these, only go with the manually activated type (pull cord). If you wear a traditional life vest it may hamper your ability to swim out from under an inverted, and sinking, situation. For major water crossings I carry a small dry bag, it contains a portable GPS, portable COM, and a small light one person inflatable boat (like the 20 dollar items from Walmart), as well as a mirror signal device, flashlight, and other trinkets. I think a dye pack and strobe would be smart to include but don't have them. My plan has always been set up into the wind for the flare over the water, and as it stalls about 5' off the deck, I'm bailing out the door, the ditch bag makes a handle with how it folds. No worse than those water ski wipe outs from my earlier days. And I'd be picking the bow of a pleasure boat or lake freighter to be pulling this off. Great Lakes have lots of traffic in summer, and I won't cross them in winter months. Now, all that shared. I also fully understand winds aloft, altitude selected, and airplane glide performance. Make a plan as to location in crossing to proceed forward, or 180 back. Even in crossing Lake MI there is a very small window of time you can't make it back to either shore, providing you're high enough. Ditching in water is a very high risk situation, but a bit of simple preparedness changes those odd's immensely. And not to sound too gruesome, if you have a lift vest on at least your body will be recovered. Your family will appreciate the closure.
  3. I'd search for cam lock strap 1" on eBay and such, this is not what I'm suggesting you should buy, but was located on first page of the search. I'd first run to a sporting goods store that sells kayaks and the roof racks that transport kayaks, these 1" webbing straps with a cam lock are often used to lash down gear on roof racks. You should be able to find these local somewhere, worst case Amazon or eBay will hook you up:
  4. This video showed up in YouTube feed yesterday, enjoyed watching it - puts a real world picture to some our frequent topics. This fella pushed things way past the decisions & choices I'd be making, but it was a relatively thin layer and things degraded a lot. The special VFR request (that didn't pan out) was an interesting play in the mix. Enjoy: Trapped Above the Ice - YouTube
  5. Replace the cord as well, and not with a 3.99 gas station cheap one. The cord is often the issue in these battery going to zero situations.
  6. If you have the laser clamped down and steady, might be able to hit burn a second time, and double etch to work the remaining amount clean. Looks like you're on the right track.
  7. Thanks much Dick, likewise I'm only a hop away if you you need an extra hand (or eye) on something. Tom - really appreciate the detailed process and tips, another nugget in the Forum data base here. On the 2 years / or within 100 hours after two years topic - I think one can argue that both ways. It does not state every two years, then period. And we don't have to do 100 hour "inspections". If you asked 10 lawyers there would probably be two camps and not a definitive answer. My take is focused on doing whatever this maintenance is correctly process wise, as it more PM on corrosion / lube, and not "oh my gosh - the wing is about to fall off", I don't think it really matters. And the aspect of hose change is a biggie, fortunately my sight tubes look dandy. What if one does 100 hour inspections? I'm clear we don't have to, but nothing stating we can't do them. I did one last year, had my fresh cert from FAA and worked the MM checklist. My plane had never flown 100+ hours a year prior to me, so the log book got the first 100 hour entry. I doubt I'll keep to doing them, but as I've not hit 200 hours (winter slows me down a lot), I can claim I'm in the 100 inspection window and compliment to MM. This is the take why I say a lawyer might argue within 100 hours is legit. At time of 2 years punting this to 100 hour window, the 100 hour inspection is not due yet, so one could "intend" to do one, but then never hit the 100 hour mark having to complete it, and then hey - we're now due at the 3 year annual mark. I would not stake much on this argument, if the airplane flew over 100 hours a year any point in the past, and didn't get the 100 hour checklist completed, and the same mechanic is doing all of them - that argument is shot. As I'm the mechanic, the owner, and the pilot - all three of us agree!
  8. It's very high potential for me, it may only be a day trip / flying in, or I could be there for several days and drag the pop over to camp on site. Or it could pan out I ride along in the Citation like '19, here's arriving Appleton:
  9. Tundra gear perhaps, do you have small tires / fairings or the large one's? I struggled with coordination all around (flying, turning, power changes, etc) until maybe 100 hours of time, then it seemed to become automatic foot pressure for these events and keep pretty decent ball centered now. I do notice the rudder / nose gear can stay off center from time to time and a little tap of the foot brings it back, I don't think this ever completely goes away - the rigging and aero handling seems to make this a bit quirky; but I'll take this snappy responding control, light forces, and overall package over any sluggish but coordinated GA bird any day! Just keep flying it and learn the feel of what it wants. Makes for good airmanship and not a point a shoot dumb flier from my perspective.
  10. And Tom, thanks for the offer on any guidance. As I'm planning on keeping the airplane some time, I may fabricate a cradle or sort of sling to suspend wing as well as support the flaps & ailerons, to simply side the units out of fuselage. I'll toss whatever concoction that idea becomes up here for critique, and then share the process when time comes. You also answered all the reasons on why this should be done, lube / corrosion protection, and I knew the hoses would be in the mix. This is exactly why GA shops without knowledge have issues, reading the MM one would think it's the "cracks and debonding" trail to run down, and there is so much more that is not mentioned.
  11. I did some maintenance on my lawn mower this past year, an 18 year old Simplicity that is USA made premium grade, it has a fuel hose that runs about 4' from rear through the frame up to engine area. It was so degraded the fuel was leaking through it like a sponge, the rubber was crazy soft and gummy. This gave me new appreciation for rubber hoses and why they need to be replaced.
  12. I'll be doing my first wing pulls in coming months, was wondering - for all of the focus on this being a two year ordeal, what is happening over the fleet historically that drives this frequency of inspection? Have any repairs or concerns noted during inspection developed as part of doing these checks? I ask this not looking to get out of doing it, I want the skill and plan to abide by the MM plan. But I also know how companies identify failure modes, construct manuals, and things go from there - and with nearly 20 years of history now - wonder how significant this inspection is becoming from a real world risk standpoint. The one good thing about the automotive world I come from is failure modes are classified in RPN's (risk priority numbers), which takes the Severity of defect, multiplies it by Occurrence rate, and again multiplies it by Detection potential. This helps one to focus inspection plans on what is the most critical. I suspect this would be a real high number on Severity, but a very low number on Occurrence. We now have the luxury of the fleet in service time, so what's the word on the street here?
  13. When I did my panel upgrades last year I noticed the static line (which often has extra length allowing removal of panel with instruments still attached) had the line rubbing on things with poor routing. I noticed one location that had nearly broke through the wall thickness, which I replaced and then added spiral cable wrap around it for protection going forward. I'd suggest looking at the lines from instruments all the way back to firewall, and zip tie things up / cable wrap, even if no issues noticed. Those Teflon tubes are not bullet proof.
  14. Andy - was that tire Kenda brand (out in hanger - I think that is what mine was). I suspected it was original too, but didn't feel up to paging through the logs, point is the same, these nose tires run a long time. I tried to hunt that tire down and looks to no longer manufactured.
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